Car cranks, won't start - passlock?
 

So, I got everything assembled after the LIM repair, all electrical connectors plugged in... and it won't start. It sounds like it wants to, it will crank all day, but it won't start. I think I did passlock - I turned the key to ON, left it like that for 11 minutes, then turned the key to off, removed it, and attempted to start again, but no luck.. did I do passlock incorrectly?

did you check the starter?

/\/\ he said it cranks, so starter should be fine

you did it wrong: you took the key out

Auto Learn
Time required, approximately 30 minutes.

Insure that the battery is fully charged.
Use the scan tool in order to clear the DTCs.
Turn the ignition switch from the OFF position to the CRANK position attempting to start the vehicle. The vehicle will start and then stall.
Leave the ignition switch in the ON position while observing the security indicator.
When the security indicator turns off, which can take up to 10 minutes, turn the ignition switch off. Wait 10 seconds.
Repeat Steps 3 through 5 two more times (3 times total).
The BCM and the PCM will learn the new code on the next start attempt

Great thank you, I'll try it. Only thing I noticed is that it says the vehicle will start and stall - mine will not start period, is this the right thing to do?

Doh, I read that wrong. Thanks for the correction.

LOL what the hell, it just started, but it was making a TERRIBLY loud squeaking noise, uploading video now lol

http://tinypic.com/r/1iluee/3

Belt.

Thanks, it does seem to have some slack in it? I was kind of unsure when I was tightening down the tensioner how far to go, do I tighten it as far as it will go? I had to remove the tensioner pulley. And the pulley doesn't seem like it wants to move at all now if I stick a 3/8" drive in it, but there is a little slack in the belt.

Which belt are you referring to? My comment of belt was based on the fact that squaling is almost always indicative of a belt.

serpentine, im going to try loosening the tensioner pulley and adjusting it

i fought with mine, on reassemble. i originally had the tensioner in wrong. (not sure how, or why.. but it wouldn't budge) i undid it, and redid it like 4x. finally it went on right and all is well.

there should be no slack... at all... ever, on the serp belt.

ya it should be ultra tight

spray some belt dressing on there too

ok. fixed the issue.... engine runs... it sounded weird when it started up, and the SES light is blinking. think it's safe to drive to the store to use the code reader? it could be my imagination but it looks like the engine has more movement than it should.. strange smell present as well. agh..

started it up again, ses light is now lit solid. also cannot get coolant (which i put water into the coolant tank) to come out of the bleed screw as per the walthrough..

Describe the smell. Is it sweet?

yeah, it was sweet, i cangt really smell it anhymore, i think it was the spilled coolant burning off. engine is definitely moving more than it should, im gessing the code is from the knock sensor

sweet would probably be antifreeze, which like you said could be left over, residual, etc. Or you could have effed something up :)

Car wouldn't start because the fuel rail was off and the system had to be primed.

No slack ever in the belt. Tensioner is not adjustable

Engine's moving too much after this job? Did you reconncet all vacuum lines?

Yep.

Rented a code reader. P0201, P0301 - injector #1, misfire cylinder #1. Would the misfire issue cause the engine/car to shake?

How can I tell which injector is which # if I'm looking from the hood, facing the windshield?

SES flashing means misfire, which you now figured out. And yes it would cause shaking. Make sure all the fuel injectors are plugged in all the way.

Cylinder #1 = Injector #1
Cylinder #2 = Injector #2
Cylinder #3 = Injector #3
Cylinder #4 = Injector #4
Cylinder #5 = Injector #5
Cylinder #6 = Injector #6