LIMG maybe?
 

So I replaced my thermostat a few weeks ago and have been having trouble getting all the air out, its just not happening. On top of that I am having a bad misfire on cylinder 2, I replaced the spark plug and now its idling ruff, so much the light starts flashing, before I replaced the spark plug I was also getting some loud valve chatter on cold start ups. And it stems like there is an oddly large amount of white smoke and water coming from the exhaust.


*Edit* after reading more, witch I should have done in the first place(sorry). I'm going to have to replace the head gasket too.

headgaskets.....100%

Sweet, just what I wanted too do. It was time to change my oil anyway.

Witch brand gaskets should I get?

i believe it was felpro that made the better updated ones.

um, it's the HEADGASKETS, not the LIM gaskets, so, get this

http://wot-tech.com/shop/all/3400-he.../prod_114.html

Hes going to HAVE to do the LIMG while hes in there. There is NO other choice.

Your going to need the LIMG, 2 head Gaskets, Bolt kit, Fuel injector 0 rings and a new exhaust stud kit. Make sure to have never seize, plenty of WD40 or alternative, torch.

Set aside a weekend to. Not sure how mechanical you are (I assume capable) but if your not make sure to have someone with you familiar with the 60 degree v6. Ive also found it smart to take pictures as I go. So when I cant remember where something went I can look back.

If you can I would start soaking a day or so prior the exhaust bolts studs. Obviously you cant drive it then.

If you need new plugs wires now is the obvious time. Same with the 02 sensor.

he needs the kit i posted, you can reuse the exhaust studs... you also need head bolts.. i have done this job many times and am extremely familiar with the engine, i'll PM you my Call Phone Number so you can ask away...

About the exhaust studs...

Providing he can get them all off without breaking anything. i had to replace a few studs.

That kit will work although I dont think you need ALL of those gaskets. The TB can stay attached, etc. etc.

Ive done heads 1 time on one car, the LIMG on my car and on a van. So Im very familiar with what needs to be done. Also Ive never had to do it twice to the same vehicle.

Well I've started taking it apart at my buddies house, luckily he's just a mile away and we used his 6.5L turbo diesel to pull me down there and I can use my dads truck to get to work. Should be done in a couple of days.

We got to the point where we could have gotten the upper intake off but stopped for the night. Looks like some dexcrap was able to make it back to the throttle body. I do have all new plugs and the wires are only 6 months old. I just hope the blocks not cracked or head warped, any one ever had that problem?

I feel so lost with out my Alero and my radio :cry: its going to be a quite ride to work. :(

But thanks for the help so far guys.

If you never overheated it the heads should be straight but it would be fairly cheap insurance to take them to a machine shop to get checked.

If you have a 12" Rule thats got ground edges you can check it yourself.

Rule of thumb for me, if ya got the money, get it machined, even if they seem straight /w the straightedge. Just to be safe.

I agree with Ryan.. those exhaust studs are meeean, broke 3 last time I did heads.

However, this is a very simple car to do head gaskets on, which is a great thing. Hardest part is rear exhaust studs, rest is a cakewalk.

I have run into one cracked 3100 block in the past. Cracked from cyl to coolant passage. Def give it a good once over, just incase. Don't wanna change the gasket just to realize the problem wasn't fixed.

i did not have any issues with my studs, 11y/o, and in the rust belt... huh

Little update.

I got the head off the front (2,4,6), clearly it was 2, from the looks of the gasket it was going bad for sometime, and got worse when I changed the thermostat and started leaking coolant. The head is in good shape, no warping. Everything looks good just normal ware, I didn't even have any problems with bolts, everything came right off, will besides the fuel rail was a little bit of a pain and the LIM took some tapping and me getting climbing on top. Now just to get the other head off, then clean, clean, clean, and maybe I will clean some more, its only 100k of crap. And seeing how I have everything apart, I am going to paint the valve covers and UIM.

Funny though, the dex-cool cleaned the piston, all most no carbon on it, all the nasty stuff was on the head and valves.

I think beer should be on the list of things you need to change a HG.

When you reassemble... With the fuel injectors. Spray some WD40 on your fingers and lube the new o rings up. It will slide in like KY jelly... lol

No but seriously. WD 40 on all rubber items on steel = easy on.

I would guess you will be cleaning the TB out real well also? All the little passages etc.

Yes, I am just going to try and make everything as clean as possible. I got everything apart, I'd feel it would be a waste if I didn't. Any tips for cleaning the TB?

It sucks I've been using my dads truck to get to work, it uses 2x the gas the Alero uses if not more, even babying the truck (it is a Dodge, don't want the front end to fall off).

i thought spraying WD40 on rubber items will cause them to rot much faster?

carb cleaner + little straw attachment and spray the bejeebes outta it. then wipe clean with a cloth... respray again. let sit. then hose the effer for 26hrs straight.

that'll fix it, good.



but in all seriousness. carb cleaner eats the carbon off there quick. a few good sprays and you should be fine. be sure to open it and get the edges well.

Plenty of Q Tips.

Beer is a universal must for everything it's on page one. :dance1: :drunk:

I don't think wd-40 rots rubber faster Grim but eh I could be wrong