Interior Lighting
 

i want to do the cup holder, vent lighting and floor lighting as seen here. how to i get power to them and where could i ground em? - im going to add in 3 switches so i can control them.

haha. (i did those how-tos)

For me, when i originally set it up, i used the power line going to the cubby light, in the center console. (took the cubby light out, and put leds in, instead)

But that failed eventually, and now I have a fused line running from the INT LPS fuse. Its located in the top right, of the passanger fuse panel. Get a fuse tap and use that one.

Now.. you'll have one wire coming in from the tap. So your going to want to split that. You can either solder 3 lines to it (or 2 more lines if you want to think that way) OR you can run a distribution block.

The leds can be grounded anywhere, that is solid metal contacting metal. I found a nice good ground in the center console, and put a distro block on it, so I have a bigger multi-tap-able location.


Get a Digital MultiMeter (DMM) and test the lines your going to use, before you use them. Interior lighting doesn't need to be on during the day. So for power, you CAN use any gray wire on the interior wiring. (if your not taping the fuse, i mentioned) And any black wire, can be used as a ground.


BUT A RULE OF WIRING. CHECK VOLTAGE. CHECK CONTINUITY. CHECK VOLTAGE AGAIN. RECHECK VOLTAGE. You screw something up and you'll cause a huge mess for yourself. Triple check everything, at all times. Test before installing, test during installing. Test after installing, before reassembling, test after reassembling.

quick question, how do i tap a fuse? :huh:

go to a car parts store, and buy a fuse tap...and a couple of fuses. :lol: (i'd stay with 2A or 5A depending on how many leds)

i have a dmm and i know how to check voltage but i dont know how to check continuity

continuity is usually shared with resistance. Its a setting that'll tell you if the wire is intact.

Put it on the wire of choice, and put it on the source. If you get a chime, its good.

Also good used backwards, to check for shorts. Put it on the + side, then on the - side. if you get no chime, thats good. Your power and grounds shouldn't be linked.

when im checking it do i put it to 2000k, 200k, 20k, 2000 or 200

i have this one here

hmm.. ya got me on that one. I've never dealt with a DMM like that.

you can get away with just testing voltage. continuity just makes life easier with more complex wiring problems.

ok. so should i just do before, during and after testing? and how flexable can the voltage be. ex if its 6.2 can it go to 5.5?

yes. for testing.

and the voltage your working with will be between 11.2(off) up to a max of 14.8(alt WOT)

so i'd to try be around 12-13.

if you put a resistor on every led, you'll have an easier time with voltages, but alot more wires to run.
But if you wire in series (no resistors) you have 4x less wires, but if one blows out, your losing 4 leds. It makes it tricky to decide.

why are there three wires on the cupholder one?


also if i told you everything i planned to do could you tell me what i would need to do it properly, and how?

i have 2 different leds in my cupholder. you will only have 2 wires.

I can make suggestions, but its entirely up to you as how you want to wire things.

sure

i thought you said "can i make a suggestion" lol >.<

how many leds would i need under each side of the dash to light the floor?

just for future reference on your dmm, those are for the level of resistance... Ex.2000 = resistance levels based in thousands of ohms...If you've got the cash, and plan on doing lots of electrical work i suggest u buy an auto-ranging meter...

i dont plan on doing lots, just a few led mods