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I'm working on stoping the vibration that is coming from my back board (the one that meets the rear window and holds the rear speakers in)... but I need to know how to get it off.
Is their some sort of screw in the trunk... or clamps??? How do I get it off.. Thanks, AleroGL02 |
1. remove the seat backs in the rear (there is a release on the hinge between the 60/40 split
2. remove the side panels where the seat belts are 3. remove plasitc piece where seat latches are (held in by 4 plastic fasteners) and you should be able to remove the rear deck, but might have to remove the plastic trim around the rear side windows |
i had the same problem, you have to pop off all of the rear panels in the back, like under the windows and across the rear seat. after all of them are off the board should almost just slide out........mine did
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hey formula i have a ?, do u know how to remove the door pannels????
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post what you did to silence the rear deck please, mine makes an ungodly racket on a few songs, and I'd certainly like to know a few methods to get it to shaddup! :thumbsup:
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theres a little reflector at the bottom of the door (so that an car coming could see the door open) well pop that out, there is a screw, remove it. then at the door handle part where you pull to close from the inside, there is a little cover, pop it off and there are 2 screws, thake them out. go ahead an unplug all the electronics, i belive the rest of the door is held on by the same plastic fasteners as i talked about in the back, just pull around the bottom, then the sides, and the top will slide up and off, the panel hangs near the window entry. if theres anything else you need to know, let me know |
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- AleroGL02 |
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no prob
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My entire rear deck is covered in dynamat, as are my doors. Got rid of the crappy water deflectors. No vibratsions. Trunk lid is covered as well.
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did covering the rear deck in dynamat work to silence the beast??
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what 6X9's are you guys using? i'm looking for some with alot of bass, cause i dont want/have the room for woofers... and they need to handle 100RMS, which isnt a whole lot.... any suggestions are welcome.
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i'll have to check the power handling specs for those... i have the reference series up front, and some crappy mtx in the back, the fit was easy for those though...
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http://www.crutchfield.com/S-6Ng3UBFe4Kr/c...1&avf=N&search= |
The rubber foam worked well... I cut the foam so it would fit nicely and then just put everything back on. No rattles come from the backbaord.
Now I just have to fix my license plate area. |
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I only did steps 2 and 3, and was able to get the rear deck off just fine |
i guess you could, but you wont be able to pull of the part completely explained in #2 ... and it takes 2 seconds for step one. and you wont have to worry about the side panels taking any damage, or being in the way.
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i left my seats in when i did my back dash. I pulled the coat hooks off the back panels, then i pulled the panels inward toward the center of the car until the 3 plasticpushpins popped out of their holes. Pull the drivers side rear panel forward a bit and you can slide the backdash free and out. I hated taking out my back seat. The 2 screws in the centre that the seat backs pivot on, what a PITA getting those back in. And even though i knew it was there, i smashed my head on the rear seat clip about 4 frickin times man, drew blood twice SOB. Ya, so AVOID TAKING OUT BACK SEAT AT ALL COSTS BATMAN, IMO.heres a pic, i decided to recover my deck when i had it out, i have my seat pulldowns running inside my car so i can reach back and pull down my seats
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