4way help
 

Anyone know which wire is hot out for the 4ways? I'm hooking up blue lights for the fire dept. I'm trying to keep a clean factory look so I'm not trying to have switchs all over the place

You mean for the hazard lamps?

RwP

Presuming you mean for the 4-way flasher - that's part of the hazard switch, along with the turn signal flashers.

It's not separate like what you seem to be looking for.

RwP

I understand about keeping the switch hidden.

IDK if you use the little change pocket under the vent on the driver's side, but if you remove that cup, it's a hole in the dash, you could mount the switch in the pocket thing, and it will be a clean and hidden install ;)

BTW you guys are so funny, that's why your shit got deleted :rolleyes2:

I'm just looking for the constant power to the switch to the relay. Not the lights themselves. I want the first responder lights to come on with the 4-way only. If anyone can inform me on how to remove the switch I can figure it out. Its just between work the fd and the gf which thinks I have some weird obsession with lights (which I do) I don't have a whole lot of free time besides the weekends. So I'm just trying to gather as much info and lay everything out to get it done as quick as possible while avoiding tackling it blind

I believe if you remove the bezel trim (two 7mm bolts on top, then pulls right out with a clip) you can access the bolts on the hazard housing.

I've never removed mine, but I know that's how you get the ingition cyl out too

Awesome thank you

I just replaced my hazard switch there is also one on the bottom...if you need pictures I can take some before I put everything back together (tore it apart and replaced the switch, went to get a bulb for gauges and got stuck helping with something else and never got it back together), while you could manage to do it without removing the vent, it is way easier if the vent comes out...there are 2 clips on the bottom, 2 on the top and one in the smaller corner

pictures would be awesome, simply for anyone else who searches and comes across this thread!!

Yes pictures would help greatly!

Constant power in IS constant power in - as long as the battery's connected, it has power.

The line you're looking for, if I understand you correctly, is INTERNAL to the switch.

But if it helps any ... here's the diagram for a 2000 Alero for the hazard light switch:

http://www.philent.biz/images/2000_A...ard_Switch.PDF

From this, you can see that what you're wanting to do (from what you're describing) is handled internally to the switch. And therefore isn't available to you. You'll find on a lot of newer cars, if it's not internal to the hazard switch, it's done by the ECU, so STILL isn't available to you.

RwP

you are showing the pinout diagram so he could actually probably connect to the right hazzard for the right side and the left hazzard for the left side for the positive power and then ground it wherever...I am about to go out and put it together and then I will take pictures so that I can point out what I am talking about...I will pull the connector again so you can see what I am talking about

The main problem is - if he does that, he'll get the strobes flashing every time the turn signals go on!

Trace that wiring again ... the output runs straight to the lamps. Another function on the same switch disables the turn signals.

RwP

why cant he just run wires from the strobes to a switch to the battery? He can run the wires all neatly....still use the cubby for the switch and boom....done! Why try wiring into the flashers? I guess you want the flashers on while the strobes are on? But if you want that then just turn the flashers on and flip the switch...

if it is wired with the flashers they will be in sync is my guess

Were to run the 4ways if your blue lights are not visible 360 around the car. I'm also not trying add a switch or put any unnessesary holes in the car for resale if I deside to get rid of the car. Also its not a race car...no need for massisive amounts of switchs everywhere. Just trying to keep it clean and looking as close to stock as possible. I just need the power from the switch to the signals when the switch is on...it shouldn't receive power when the signals are on bc there not on the same flasher?? I'm just assuming, I'm new to gm

It's not a GM/something else, it's a Year 2000 approx / Year 2013 thing.

In the late 1990's - early 2000's, flashers and hazards had electromechanical or even purely electronic flashers that were stand alone, and they did fancy switching in the turn signal switch to select hazard / non-hazard operation. Or they did the fancy wiring in the hazard switch. Or a combination.

As a first responder vehicle, I'd just say "Screw it!", grab a spare cubby or console bin out of the yard, and drill away.

And if it's not a first responder - why are you putting blue strobes on it?

RwP

just put the damn switch under the dash and run the lights to it....DONE in 5-30 min :lol: when you sell the car nobody will see the holes. How much do you think the two littles holes somewhere would hurt the resale value? These cars don't have good resale values anyways....how much did you pay for your car? 1000-1400 i'm guessing. 160k on a car people aren't looking for mint condition....they're typically just looking for anything they can afford.

You couldn't tell the whole price thing if you looked at the prices for it around here...the way prices are around here you could get a better deal going and buying one in canada and paying all the extra customs fees to have it become an american car...However, it is a very popular car around here and particularly out to western kansas