Alright...the other day I was messing around with my radio and hit my shiftplus switch to "off" by accident. I went to go drive somewhere when I was done and it'd BARELY shift into gears..it was all lagged, it'd go to where it'd normally shift then back off a couple hundred RPM's then just ease into the gear. I noticed right away I had my ShiftPlus turned off but that's not good that it doesn't run like stock when it's turned off. I decided to see how the highway driving was so I hit the interstate and got it up to 80 (where it shifts into 3rd normally)...under WOT I got up to about 5800rpm's right at 80mph where it normally shifts...well it didnt shift at that..it just sat there, revved a little at 5800..dropped off about 500RPM's then caught 3rd. I called my buddy who's a mechanic and he said because the tranny is used to the added pressure of my B&M, when it's turned off the plates arent grabbing as hard. Kind of like holding a spring down for a long ass time constantly then letting it go, it doesnt go back to it's original length..it's a lil shorter. Does anyone know if this will wear off if I ever sell the car and remove the B&M? Like will it go back to the way it WAS after driving for a bit w/o the ShiftPlus? Cuz otherwise I'm gonna have to sell the car w/ it or else tell the person it has a slipping tranny <_< I would imagine similar "side effects" to the AutoTrans Int. and even the DHP PCM w/ the added line pressure. Also, I ONLY used the 1st setting of the B&M..never used the 2nd setting (after trying it once and hated it). Another thing I'm worried about is my tranny just getting used to the 1st setting of my B&M and getting broken in to that to where it is basically just performing like stock to where I'd have to switch it to the 2nd setting just to get what the 1st setting USED to give me. Grr...

this is why i don't use the B&M all the time. others have had problems with trannies from the auto interceptor and B&M. but that is why i choosed the B&M i can turn it off and use it when i want to.

i have had my B&M for 1.5 years and tranny still shifts good.

i don't think it will come back. but you never know.

It will come back but it does take time (bout 1000km) and all will be well

I'm sorry, but I can't believe people think they can use stuff like this and it won't mess up your car at all. The good news is your shifts should firm up if you drive for a while without the B&M. The trans will adapt back up (as much as it can - you may have ruined clutches/plates, etc.)

Yeah, the cars computer should relearn the normal shift points again and start acting normal.

i wish we could have a comparison between the shift plud and the dhp pcm seeing as they both increase tranny pressure........i want to know if the dhp is as noticable as the shiftplus is......

Crossed wires.

wrong wrong wrong. your tranny is screwed, mine did exactly this BEFORE i got the shiftplus, and that's the main reason i got the shiftplus. now it's getting bad, 2 tranny shops and a gm dealership says it has to
be rebuilt. therefore i'm trading it.

note.... DO NOT LAUNCH ABOVE THE STALL RATING OF YOUR TORQUE CONVERTER.

What is that, for referance?

going by descriptions of the shift-plus

no the DHP makes shifting mildly firmer, i never noticed a real difference in the firmness of shifts, just the shiftpoints. and if you put a shift-plus on a DHP car it really gets screwy learned that recently.

What is that, for referance? [/b][/quote]
Excellent question Ken, I was thinking the same, myself. On a side note, this is DEFINATELY not the shat I wanted to read. I'm installing Ken's B&M today. :o :P

B&M doesn't change the shift points, all it does is increase line pressure and make it a little firmer....

WHAT?! :blink:

you'd have to ask overdrive what the stall is on our torque convertor, i dont know exact numbers.... but launching above it too much will weld the clutch packs.

as forwhat's causing the slipping, im not sure, all i know is that i have the exact same problem you describe, BEFORE b&m, and the b&m has only helped me. so i wouldnt put the blame there.

my tranny started to go the SAME DAY i installed CAI, but i'm not gonna blame CAI, just kinda weird that that same day it slipped for the first time.

Try disconnecting your battery overnight. Ever time I disconenct my battery, it slips in all gears, and takes weeks to be completely relearn back to normal. Try disconnecting the battery, and then relearning it without any B&M being on.

your car with the stock air intack exhaust, and PCM with the 3400, and the 2.2 should stall at about 2500 rpm give or take 100.

As far as well the clutch packs from doing a stall, yeah that won't happen, all you are gonna do if you stall long enough is melt the converter hub seal and then caugh trans fluid all over the place.

if i try and rev up even just a little and drop it into drive it just kills the power, kinda like when i lose traction and it kills power to the slipping wheel.......

thats all computer controlled.... i meant more like holding the brake, giving it gas to about 3000 rpm, then releasing... yea trouble.

and i'm not arguing with overdrive, but another member had his tranny pulled apart, and his clutchpacks were "welded (together?)"

hey overdrive, what would cause the front end to hop viciously in an accelleration (wheels not really turning, just hopping) also, what could cause R to become N, and N to become drive, and no reverse whatsoever? turned the car off then on, and it was fine, cant recreate the problem.

so you guys are saying you cannot launch at 3000rpm's at all?! I launch on the street at like 2000 and at the track I could easily do 3000w/o any wheel spin.

if you've ever launched at 3000 rpm's that's the source of your problem there, not the b&m.

20+ runs launching at 2200 is what (i believe) killed my tranny.