[mikegett]

Granted, if he was to add the second amp 2400 watts will be pretty huge. If he was running that sytem full blast for a extended period of time then a upgrade would probably be needed. I just don't think he understands what 2400 continuous watts will be like in a car. If anyone can sit through that on a drive to work then some money for hearing aids and a new rear window would be the next priority. I am going to bet that a nice two farrod cap will be plenty for the system. besides, it is going to be a better choice to instal the system and then have it tested. If he is maxing out the altenator he can just keep the volume low until it is upgraded. It may be interesting to see how everyone on here compares with amperage draw. It is free to have autozone do a test. I suggest that if anybody has time stop off and see what there max draw is and what the continuous draw is. They can then post the results along side of a break down of the current system. This could give us a better understanding of what our systems are doing to the cars and our ears. Currently I am running stock (no comments please, I am married) but I can post my previous cars specs.

I had a ford taurus with three amps. The altenator was rated for 145.One 4 channel eclipse 32430. 85 watts x4@4 ohm Max 800 watts 80 amps
One 6 channel A/D/s PH15. 55 watts rms x6 @ 4ohm Max 660 watts 60 amps
One 2 channel eclipse 3322 85 watts rms x 2@ 4ohm Max 540 watts 50 amps

The two channel was running a 15 inch sub and the rest were running components and two six inch woofers. The sub was only in for about a month as I focused more on the frequencies above 50 hrtz. For this reason I should imagine that my draw would be signifiganlty less than many others. At a constant load I was pulling twenty two amps over my cars amperage (67 total). With my sub at my full volume I was pulling about fourty five (90 total) above my cars average amperage.