Quote:
Originally Posted by abrams
Let me start off by saying I'm not very adept with cars, I just happen to own a 2001 Alero GL. With that:
So my friend recently got a new car that had built-in subs, so he gave me his old sub and amp for free. Here's an album of what I'm working with:
http://imgur.com/a/5rhl5
As far as I could tell in my trunk, I do not have the stock amp ("premium sound system") in my car.
This made me think of a few questions I'd rather make sure of instead of guessing about :
1) Do I need a different HU in order to use this sub? |
First thing's first, you should probably swap out that sub into a prefab box. In the picture, it seems as if the air would leak out of the top. This is a recommendation, take it as you will. Prefabbed boxes are not expensive at all. You could probably get a vented single sub box for less than $50 online or on Craigslist.
Also, a different head is not necessary, but it is recommended so you don't have to mess around with the "line converters" and you get more options. Also, features like bluetooth, 3.5mm jack connectivity, and USB connectivity make for a better listening experience. Not to mention if you're using an FM transmitter, the sound quality drops. Once you have USB or bluetooth connectivity, you'll notice how much more clear the sound is using those methods.
Quote:
Originally Posted by abrams
2) If so, I had this in mind: http://goo.gl/2R6tZV My question with that is will this model fit in place of the radio? |
Yes it will, but you need the mounting hardware. It usually costs $20 at Walmart. You can score it cheaper online.
While on this topic, you're better off spending $25 more and getting this radio.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...C-KD-A645.html
It has more features than the Pioneer, and it has 4 sets of RCA cables instead of 2. This means you can later add on an amplifier for your front speakers. This radio comes with USB, Bluetooth and Aux connectivity. The more versatile the radio is, the better it will be for sound quality.
Quote:
Originally Posted by abrams
3) If I do need a different HU and that model will work, do I need anything other parts to be able to install this?
I'm aware that my door chime will probably disappear if I need a different HU and I'm okay with that. I did some research on these forums and saw the word "harness" being thrown around a few times, but I'm not sure what one does or if I'll need it.
Any other warnings/tips for installing these would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance for any sort of helpful reply.
|
Well, I mentioned earlier the mounting hardware, but if you're not interested in the chimes, the normal adapter will be fine. The only thing is that you will need to tap into the ignition cable in order for the radio to work. You would need to tap into a big brown wire near the ignition cylinder. It will keep your radio on in ACC mode BUT you will lose the RAP feature. That's the feature that keeps your radio on for 10 minutes after taking out the key. You will also lose the ding when your low fuel light comes on or when you have a code triggered. These are FYI.
Now if I was you, and I were to do this, here is what I would buy:
JVC Headunit
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...C-KD-A645.html
Scosche Wiring kit. These are true copper strands from what I gather, but they're fairly thin cables. IT works for your set up though.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Scosche-68...-Amps/14667122
Radio install kit
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aftermarket-...505f54&vxp=mtr
Vented box (if the box leaks, which it seems it would. Besides, a vented box will give you more boom out of that sub)
IF it's a 12"
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Q-Power-QSBA...e m35cc2fb61e
If it's a 10"
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Q-Power-QSBA...e m51ba2ec205