Paint repair problem

I recently had an accident... had to get a new hood & have the front bumper re-painted. I had it done by a shop who's work is guaranteed by my insurance company.

Briefly... 3 months after having it repainted... I have more small rock paint chips in the hood & bumper than I got from the 50,000 miles I put on driving before the accident. In addition... I was driving my other car (Tracker) for most of the bad weather the last 3 months.

I'm wondering if they didn't put enough paint and/or clear coat on the thing. But I'd like to be armed with some facts before I complain.

Opinions?

I had the same problem after having a dealership replace my hood and front fender... then after about 4K miles it started to chip. All I did was take it up to them and show that hood had chip marks and they completely repainted it for me. My car wasn't under warranty, but the insurance company warrantied the work! It shouldn't be a problem to get this fixed!!!!

Originally posted by mlcroy20@Apr 6 2004, 01:19 PM
All I did was take it up to them and show that hood had chip marks and they completely repainted it for me.

So did they get it 'right' the 2nd time?

Well.. it's only been about 1k miles.. but I know it looks more like the original paint job that was done on my car so I'm hoping it lasts longer this time!!!

ok dude,
paint flakes off metal for one reason only, bad prep work!!! if you have paint "chiping" well nothing you can do you drive the car is goin to happen
but if it`s just coming off then it`s bad crappy prep work
same thing if the bumper bad prep work
oem gm bumpers come with primer on them,that`s fine,the process is, scuff with a red scuff pad clean with dx330,use a flexable sealer,base,the the clear HAS TO BE FLEXED
unprimed bumpers are totaly different means raw plastic
you take hot soapy water and wash the bumper until the mold agents are gone if they are not and bumper is still waxy feeling,then it has to be cooked at 165 degrees for 30 min`s
then use a adheshion promoter that has to bond for 30min`s then flex sealer base flex clear
now iam goin off of how i have been doin it for the past 10 yrs and using ppg products
metal prep/new panels
new panels:
allot of prepers think that you can just scuff the e-coat with a scuff pad and than paint right over it<<<WRONG!!!
even tho ppg say you can do it ALWAYS use a sealer so the base coat has a chemical bond to the metal
the way i prep new metal:
da 320, clean with dx 330, sealer, base with dx57, and then clear
again ppg dbc system
i think that`s pretty much covers prep work if ya need more info feel free to ask

It's not coming off in a peeling manner... but I have gotten twice the number of rock chips in the last 3 months as I got in 3 years. Seems to me that a couple more coats of paint or clearcoat would have made it a little more resistant to that. (?)

The coat looks "thin" (not as deep) compared to other parts (factory painted) of the car where I have small chips.

there are such things as "bad batches" of paint.... through my experience when i worked at sherwin williams paint co., was that "bad paint" is definately not rare... in these instances this paint will abnormally peal, fade, wear,etc.... and not always are these paints singled-out... most often they always still get used unless it is just an enormous amount of it.... sorry... time for a new paint job.