Yeah I'll have to talk you through over the phone at least to get things started heheh.
The B&M is risky as is, it intercepts the signal coming from the computer to the transmission and can override the shift pressure. The PCM sets it to a max value of 90, but the B&M could override that. I'd never use that, even for a stock car. When you touch the trans tables, the B&M should never touch your car. I just upped NoSweat83's transmission stuff at ASS, so he's got to remove his B&M.
In the transmission tables, the only thing you really touch is:
Desired Shift Time
How quick each shift is, mine are all around 0.100 sec.
Shift Pressure
I added about 15 to the factory numbers, and made the 2->3 shift just as high pressure as the rest. For some reason from the factory they make the 2->3 shift be a lot wimpier than 1->2 or 3->4.
Abuse Mode
We turn this to Disabled. It makes it so your car shifts hard and fast even if it thinks you're just hot rodding it.
The main thing you deal with in the tune, the most important, is the Spark Advance and the VE Low RPM and VE High RPM... the VE requires a Wideband O2 sensor though. Spark is where all the power is, VE adjustment makes the car run smooth and safely. Without a wideband you can't accurately adjust fuel addition/subtraction for mods like a bigger throttle body, or P&P head, or boost. You can still play with the speed limiter, fan settings, and spark advance (each additional degree you add translates to about 10HP.. hehe)
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