Coolant Change How-To?

[TheEdgeofSanity]

Ok, so my car is 11 years old and has the original dex-cool in it. No leaks, etc. and the coolant is still a vibrant orange color. it says change every 5 years or 100,000 miles and I am well over both of those. The car doesn't overheat, but I suspect the thermostat is stuck because it never heats up to 210 degrees in the winter.

I know there is a little valve to drain the coolant on the radiator, but I have no clue what tool you use to open it. I have also heard this valve breaks easily and the easier way to change the coolant is to take a hose off.

Thirdly, I have heard that the radiators in our cars get full of sludge in the coolant that can affect the cooling capacity for the oil and transmission fluid. Is this really true?

Long story short, when should coolant really be changed and what is the "least likely to break something" way to do it? I have a 3400 LA1 engine....

[[ion] C2]

that valve does break easily, and opening it won't get all of the coolant out. the rest shows up in a big waterfall from the lower hose. (i found out while standing under the car while it was on a hoist)

an allen (hex) wrench is what you use. hard to describe how to open it.. basically the white fitting only turns like halfway or a quarter turn, and then you pull it forward (toward the front of the car) and it will open the valve and coolant will come out a hole in the bottom of the radiator

this car only has coolant and transmission oil coolers, no engine oil coooler. coolant section inefficiency shouldn't affect the neighboring trans section too much.

[robalero]

ive never once heard of that drain plug breaking.

but use the plug to drain it when the vehicle is warm ( prefered doesn't have to be but thats a me thing ) I also recommend once all the coolant is out to take the lower rad hose off and allow whatever is left to drain out.

coolant should be changed every 5 years not because of the color but because of the strenght and the chemicals in it that over time can destroy your cooling system

[[ion] C2]

Originally Posted by robalero

ive never once heard of that drain plug breaking.

all the time man... i worked in auto parts sales lol
it's very wimpy

[robalero]

I work at the dealer....maybe its cause all of our stuff is mostly new still by the time we see it or do anything with it

[Redog]

I've heard that you need to do a POSTIVE flush to get all the Dex out because of the sludge issue.

My mech made the switch for me once with a LIMG gasket job, but I had my current mech do it again at the HG job in the summer of 2010. I wasn't ready to tackle a HG on this motor yet.

I did lose a lot of coolant when my water pump started to go eariler this year, reason being, for perventive maintaince, I changed the main rad hoses since they were comming up on their 11th birthday, plus the lower one was collapased. (took me longer to get the stock clamp off the lower than to cange the WP and the upper hose. Broke my clamp tool in the process too )

As for the petrooster, I tried to turn it, had too much trouble and saw what was going to happen if I got it open, so I said "eff it" and just pulled the hose off anyway

I've heard the WP goes when you flush the cooling system, but I never had a problem, but at 11 years old, I would change the hoses and WP if they are still both orginal

[[ion] C2]

Originally Posted by Redog

As for the petrooster,

[TheEdgeofSanity]

well in that case, i have no problems with anything so it sounds better just to leave it the hell alone. I don't feel like changing all the hoses, petroosters, water pump, etc.

[rocketfast321]

Originally Posted by Redog

I've heard that you need to do a POSTIVE flush to get all the Dex out because of the sludge issue.

If air gets in the system like a from a LIM leak it will do that sludge thing. And also if you mix dexcool, green, and water, like my friend did. You get weird brown coolant that sticks to everything. I had to do a full flush on it.

Disconnect the heater hoses, and flush the heater core.
Clean the water pump housing, and burp valve lines
Remove the t-stat and just let water run thru the motor
The coolant tank and rad took like 5min before the water ran clear.

But after that the heater was like brand new, and it ran cooler.

[hok666]

Originally Posted by Redog

I've heard the WP goes when you flush the cooling system, but I never had a problem, but at 11 years old, I would change the hoses and WP if they are still both orginal

why? explain :P