11-20-2010, 07:01 AM
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#1
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GX Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Macomb, Michigan
Posts: 128
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Come on guys... don't make me read the manual...
Sooo, before I go diggin into the service manual...
Is there a usual issue with 3400's hesitating on hard acceleration (around 4k-5k rpm). Mine's got 120,000 miles. It's been well taken care of. Ummm, I've changed the oil every 3-4 grand, changed the spark plugs and wires at 100k, had every accessory replaced at least once (alternator, power-steering, a/c, etc), and I've been running premium in an attempt to keep the car from lagging too bad. Basically, I just want to know if it's some random part that I'm not thinking of...
yeah, I know this makes me look lazy and stupid...
I'm ok with the former.
__________________
'99 Alero GLS Sedan - Gold, V6, 17x7 Enkei PK6s,
SLP Catback, Eibach springs
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11-20-2010, 10:14 AM
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#2
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Aleromod part owner
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Far Northeast Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 18,199
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Almost 126,000 here and my car's been doing that for a while, until I figured it out.
My problem was the intake piping was hitting the positive termial on the battery. It happened at WOT only. I'm guessing because the engine's movement shifited the pipe into the battery
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33% ALEROMOD OWNER!!
2000 Olds Alero 3400 SFI 14.53 @ 94.93
1985 Olds Delta 88 307 SBO 17.96 @ 76.99
2007 Volvo V50 T5 6M 15.782 @ 89.12
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11-20-2010, 11:20 AM
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#3
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Gone
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lockport Ny
Posts: 19,244
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check your tranny fluid/filter?
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11-20-2010, 03:03 PM
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#4
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GL Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Illinois
Posts: 604
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redog
Almost 126,000 here and my car's been doing that for a while, until I figured it out.
My problem was the intake piping was hitting the positive termial on the battery. It happened at WOT only. I'm guessing because the engine's movement shifited the pipe into the battery
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How did you end up fixing this? Did you just place like a piece of sticky adhesive onto the pipe so that its not metal touching the terminal?
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11-20-2010, 03:07 PM
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#5
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GX Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Macomb, Michigan
Posts: 128
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redog
Almost 126,000 here and my car's been doing that for a while, until I figured it out.
My problem was the intake piping was hitting the positive termial on the battery. It happened at WOT only. I'm guessing because the engine's movement shifited the pipe into the battery
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You have a C.I.A. right? I still have the stock air box. I don't think any part of the tubing even gets near the positve terminal. If the battery were turned 180 degrees it would i guess. Also, how is it that that issue made your hesitate?
__________________
'99 Alero GLS Sedan - Gold, V6, 17x7 Enkei PK6s,
SLP Catback, Eibach springs
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11-20-2010, 03:13 PM
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#6
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GX Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Macomb, Michigan
Posts: 128
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cherrington17
check your tranny fluid/filter?
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Neither of them have been changed to my knowledge. I've had the car since about 30,000 miles too, and it's highly unlikely they were changed before then, soo i'll just assume they were never changed...
but just like with redog, explain to me (pleez) how that woukld make your car hesitate or stutter..
__________________
'99 Alero GLS Sedan - Gold, V6, 17x7 Enkei PK6s,
SLP Catback, Eibach springs
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11-20-2010, 03:17 PM
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#7
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GX Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Macomb, Michigan
Posts: 128
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Also, cherrington posted at 4:20...
/giggles/
__________________
'99 Alero GLS Sedan - Gold, V6, 17x7 Enkei PK6s,
SLP Catback, Eibach springs
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11-20-2010, 03:27 PM
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#8
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GL Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Illinois
Posts: 604
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Mach1 he means when using an aftermarket intake like a CAI or Short Ram. The reason it would cause a hesitation is because the aftermarket intake piping is usually some form of metal that when touching the battery terminal(s) causes a short so the car would lose some power and hesitate until the car would vibrate enough and the pipe gets off of the terminal.
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11-20-2010, 03:37 PM
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#9
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Gone
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lockport Ny
Posts: 19,244
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I really don't have any reason so suspect that... just throwing out ideas of stuff that you hadn't mentioned you did.
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11-20-2010, 04:00 PM
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#10
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GLS member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: wisconsin
Posts: 2,733
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Hesistation... good chances it's plugs/wires (would be wires, since you already did plugs), or else fuel pressure.
Check out fuel pressure/ volume (should put out 15oz in 15 seconds @ idle when you purge the fuel pressure gauge). Tape the gauge to the window and take it for a drive and see if it drops @ 4-5k, too.
If those aren't the issue, it'd be worth it to check exhaust backpressure to see if the cat's slightly clogged.
3 good things to check first.
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11-20-2010, 04:49 PM
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#11
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GX Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Michigan
Posts: 123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mach1
Sooo, before I go diggin into the service manual...
Is there a usual issue with 3400's hesitating on hard acceleration (around 4k-5k rpm). Mine's got 120,000 miles. It's been well taken care of. Ummm, I've changed the oil every 3-4 grand, changed the spark plugs and wires at 100k, had every accessory replaced at least once (alternator, power-steering, a/c, etc), and I've been running premium in an attempt to keep the car from lagging too bad. Basically, I just want to know if it's some random part that I'm not thinking of...
yeah, I know this makes me look lazy and stupid...
I'm ok with the former.
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Well best way to take care of ur car is probably not accelerating into the 4.5K+ range unless you NEED to, but anyways @ 122K miles when i got the car I immediately changed the catalytic converter because i also noticed some hesitation when getting into the rpm curve, also a can of sea foam, and a new fuel filter topped of the immediate list of NEEDS. But obviously check ur wires and dist. before digging too deep.
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11-20-2010, 07:56 PM
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#12
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GLS member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Valley City, ND
Posts: 999
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stickybuddz420
...check ur wires and dist. before digging too deep.
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Good luck checking the distributor. I'm talking about the one that isn't there.
__________________
2003 Alero GL2 LA1: pacesetter cat back, Energy Speed WAI, Magnaflow downpipe/cat, tinted tail lights, and polished letters on intake manifold.
1987 Honda Rebel 450
1967 Buick Riviera 430 Wildcat: roadworthy but needs restoration.
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11-20-2010, 11:21 PM
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#13
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GX Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Michigan
Posts: 123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lucalare
Good luck checking the distributor. I'm talking about the one that isn't there.
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Are you referring to coil packs? or a car that doesn't use dist. or coils? Because I do believe Oldsmobile put one or the other in their vehicles, yah know, so the car will start..... 
__________________
 B4 Cleared Corners/Fog Light Removal
No More Cobalts - 2 12" Punch HE2's
1100W BOSS CHAOS Mono Amp
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11-21-2010, 01:56 AM
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#14
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GLS member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Indiana
Posts: 3,201
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stickybuddz420
Are you referring to coil packs? or a car that doesn't use dist. or coils? Because I do believe Oldsmobile put one or the other in their vehicles, yah know, so the car will start..... 
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 you serious...
It's your fuel filter.. your starving your engine
Last edited by xXManwhoreXx : 11-21-2010 at 01:59 AM.
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11-21-2010, 02:01 AM
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#15
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GX Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Michigan
Posts: 123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stickybuddz420
Well best way to take care of ur car is probably not accelerating into the 4.5K+ range unless you NEED to, but anyways @ 122K miles when i got the car I immediately changed the catalytic converter because i also noticed some hesitation when getting into the rpm curve, also a can of sea foam, and a new fuel filter topped of the immediate list of NEEDS. But obviously check ur wires and dist. before digging too deep.
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I mentioned it 
__________________
 B4 Cleared Corners/Fog Light Removal
No More Cobalts - 2 12" Punch HE2's
1100W BOSS CHAOS Mono Amp
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11-21-2010, 03:02 AM
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#16
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Premier V.I.P. Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Woodbridge, VA
Posts: 1,452
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Fuel filter or clogged air filter comes to mind first. But any electrical issues? Maybe a failing alternator? Had a similar issue (but with a neon) where the alternator was going bad and created some hesitation-would push the gas, the engine would rev like something was holding it back and hesitation, stuttering, lag ensued.
Start with the simple maintenance and needs first. Filters, flush and fresh fuel.
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I am happy to say I have added more mods to my car than I have space to list.
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11-21-2010, 06:04 AM
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#17
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Let's Play Army!
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Lockport, NY
Posts: 8,475
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and you don't need to be running premium gas...not unless you have so many mods that you're boosting your compression ratio. Stick with 87 or 89. any more than that, you're wasting money on gas and messing with the how the gas actually ignites.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by black
holy crap, i just farted at work and the whole office stinks!!!!
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RIP to my Alero @ 112000 miles. COD: thrown rod. TOD: 430pm, Dec19, 2011.
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11-21-2010, 06:21 AM
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#18
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GX Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Macomb, Michigan
Posts: 128
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K so must check...
- catalytic conv.
- fuel pressure (and filter)
Truthfully it'll be my mechanic buddy who'll be checking that lol.
The problem intially occured this summer around 115000 miles I think. It never stuttered before that. Initially, I purchased some fuel system cleaner (gumout full fuel sys treatment for high mileage cars) for a few fill ups and noticed a slight decrease in the problem. However, the car kept hesitating slightly. So, I took it on the highway with the thought that I would blow some carbon out of the cylinders via stepping on it a few times. The car kept hesitating under hard accel until the service engine light came on and I got worried. I took the car to autozone and had them scan it and the reader came up "cyl #2 misfire". So, I took the car home and removed the #2 plug, cleaned off some minor build up, and the next time I took the car out, the hesitation porblem was practically non-existent. This got me wondering whether the #2 fuel injector was not working right and fouling the plug. Eventually (within a month), the problem returned and I ended up switching from 89 to 93 just to help out a little. It seemed to work slightly. Annnnd basically for the last couple months the car has been in this state. It runs fine, except for when I really wanna get on it. Although, it has one quirk to it...
If i don't lightly (and I mean very lightly) tap the gas pedal right as the motor fires up, it starts out all wonky like. If I don't tap it right as the motor fires, the car usually starts up at around 700 rpm and then "revs" itself to 1500 and slowly goes back down. And I f#cking hate when this happens, especially when the motor is dead cold and its winter in michigan. I know the block aint gonna crack from 1500 rpm, but it just effin bothers me lol.
I know... it's weird...
__________________
'99 Alero GLS Sedan - Gold, V6, 17x7 Enkei PK6s,
SLP Catback, Eibach springs
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11-21-2010, 08:05 AM
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#19
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Premier V.I.P. Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Woodbridge, VA
Posts: 1,452
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Why you asking us if you're going to have a mechanic do it? Confused...
__________________
I am happy to say I have added more mods to my car than I have space to list.
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11-21-2010, 09:58 AM
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#20
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GLS member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Valley City, ND
Posts: 999
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stickybuddz420
Are you referring to coil packs? or a car that doesn't use dist. or coils? Because I do believe Oldsmobile put one or the other in their vehicles, yah know, so the car will start..... 
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It has three coil packs, my previous statement was referring to the stupid comment about checking the distributor.
__________________
2003 Alero GL2 LA1: pacesetter cat back, Energy Speed WAI, Magnaflow downpipe/cat, tinted tail lights, and polished letters on intake manifold.
1987 Honda Rebel 450
1967 Buick Riviera 430 Wildcat: roadworthy but needs restoration.
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