01-28-2012, 10:49 PM
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#1
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GLS member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: NY
Posts: 1,226
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db rating and hz rating
when looking at component sets how important is the db rating and hz rating. like is it better to have a lower hz starting point like 30hz as opossed to a 50hz im assuming 30 will sound deeper? also the db rating. can you assume 93db rating will be louder than a set thats 87db?
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01-29-2012, 06:14 AM
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#2
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GX Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Parkersburg, WV
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You're exactly right. When I buy speakers for any car, I first look at the "frequency responce". This will tell you how your Lows will sound and How your Highs will sound. db rating, not as much. More often then not, you will not be using the full db rating of the speaker. The two biggest things you need to look for is frequency responce and RMS ohm rating, not max. I have a pair of plate speakers in my front doors and 6x9s in the back, just driven off my JVC head unit, and it sounds like I have subs just by doing what I told you. Happy Shopping! Hope this helps!
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01-29-2012, 08:57 AM
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#3
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GL Member
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Location: Iowa
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I too have the same thing and people swore I had subs til I popped my trunk to prove I didn't have subs
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stock 2.4  -building a WAI to a CAI  3A Racing muffler- ~Kicker Door speakers and Power Accustic rear speakers  10% tint 18x7.5 Alt Sonix, 2001 GLS sedan
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01-29-2012, 09:01 AM
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#4
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GX Member
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Location: Parkersburg, WV
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It's all about smart shopping!
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Ahhhhh!!!!!! Don't Scratch My Paint!!!!
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01-29-2012, 07:44 PM
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#5
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Master of my Domain
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Toledo, Ohio
Posts: 4,072
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Can you direct me to the "RMS Ohms rating" I would be most interested in seeing that.
What does your current system consist of?
If you have no subs then you may want to go for a set that will go slightly lower. However how much bass do you think a 5.25 or 6.5" midrange will give off in a door free air? (The answer is not much)
other than that its budget and what sounds best to you.
The most important thing to look at is power ratings and what you have to work with. You dont want to way over power them. You also dont want a 200 WRMS system and only give it 20 wmrs.
As far as the dB rating. Practically useless. Anyone who tries to tell you that is a true measure of a speakers ultimate SPL is a complete tool. That rating is supposedly 1 watt RMS of power at 1 meter of distance. Now how will that speaker react with 100 WRMS? 200? 500? 1000+? To think this amount would move in linear terms is like thinking the world is flat.
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01-30-2012, 06:08 AM
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#7
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Master of my Domain
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Location: Toledo, Ohio
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Pioneer is and always will be a stable brand. So I would say yes they are good. However you can usually get better for the money elsewhere- but beware you can spend more and get crap too.
Personally Hz wouldnt be a deciding factor. If anything I would see it as a negative to go lower. Its just going to muddy the mid bass that much more as the speaker is trying to reproduce more sound.
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-Ryan
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01-30-2012, 02:22 PM
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#8
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GLS member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: NY
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i never thought of it that way like the massive audio 6x9 that are rated at 20hz being that low it might not have that typical hard punchy misbass if its trying to drop to 20hz right? do like of of them posted on there?
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12-29-2012, 05:47 PM
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#9
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GX Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Sault Ste Marie, ON, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan from Ohio
As far as the dB rating. Practically useless.
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Bulls!@#.
A speaker having a sensitivity of, for example, 93 dB@1 watt 1 meter will play louder with the same amount of power than a speaker with, for example, 87 dB@ 1 watt 1 metre sensitivity. An increase of 3dB is the equivalent of feeding it twice the power.
And power vs perceived volume isn't linear. You need to feed a speaker 10 times the power in order for it to be perceived as twice the volume.
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12-29-2012, 05:57 PM
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#10
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GX Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Sault Ste Marie, ON, Canada
Posts: 9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by irondiezl3
what im changing to is 5.25 components in doors and debating between 6x8 components or 6.5 components in the rear. the reason i ask about hz is because pioneers higher end are 35hz much lower than the other which average around 50-60hz but ive never had pioneer speakers so idk if their high end is good? i was also thinking maybe get all jbl to match the amp and the jbl speakers also drop to 2 ohms which the amp can handle but idk if that really means anything quality wise anyway. no sub in car here is some im looking at
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The only time advertised frequency response is relevant when comparing speakers is if the frequency response is measured using the same criteria, usually expressed as + or - xxdB. For example, the Pioneers are advertised as having low end to 35 Hz. but is hat +- 3dB? 5dB? 10dB? If, for example, the Pioneers are -10dB at 35 Hz and the other brand is only -3dB at 50 or 60 Hz, if you were to look at a graph of the actual freq response of the two speakers, you will likely find that the low end of the response is quite similar. You cant compare apples and oranges if you need to know how many grapes they contain.
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01-03-2013, 03:55 PM
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#11
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GLS member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: NY
Posts: 1,226
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i ended up with polk momo 5.25 components in frnt and momo 6x9 component in back then i ran autotune on my prs-80 sounds pretty good i picked the momos because its the only 6x9 that had a very high db rating of 94 and had seaperate crossovers and matched the fron they are 94db and if i recall around 38hz they sound amazing only problem i have it i get confused where to have the crossover set on the amo and headunit. on the headunit the hpf for front and rear are set to 63hz and sounds awesome on the amp they are set higher like 80. i thought you would only need one like either deck or amp hpf on but if i turn either off it doesnt sound as clear so i keep them both on. I have the slope set to 12 u can chose 6 12 or 18 12 sounds the clearest.
apologies for punctuation.
Last edited by irondiezl3 : 01-03-2013 at 04:08 PM.
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