Changing your springs - Page 2

BLK03GXS · 05-15-2004, 08:44 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by sound_xtreme@May 16 2004, 12:20 AM
omfg, you think im a bunnyin retard or something. yes the god damn size of the stupid driver. enough already dippoop.

W/e man...
If you break 1/2 drive on a regular basis your doing something wrong IMO, or trying to sound big... or something... I dunno...
i was just bringing up a point about using non impact sockets with an impact...A valid point, in refrence to safety...
Why dont you too just keep your flame-fests in the uncencored... Because its obvious that you too are more interested in causing poop then solving problems.. or at least it seems that way...
As for me i wont post in this thread agen, cus its a waste of eveyones time to read it, when theres allways gunna be a BS post by one of you too jerk-offs at the bottem.

Tristan

05-16-2004, 12:14 AM

i think its kinda fun to read

05-16-2004, 02:16 AM

u just dont know how to take a joke thats all. yes tru this should be in the uncensored but it jsut kinda happened here.

its just funny to see u get all defensive and try to talk down on people.... we me and joel are jsut goofing around in the first place.

people need to lighten up.

05-16-2004, 02:48 PM

You guys ruined a perfectly good How Too post.....
My advice, if you have a question about the how too.....PM the one who posted the thread. A How Too should be one post, no replies.

05-23-2004, 12:13 AM

Okay, a bit of useful information to add...

The two nuts on the two bolts that attach the strut tower to the knuckle (I believe that's the name of it) in the front are 21mm. In the back, they're 19mm. The nut at the top of the bearing plate that holds it onto the strut is 21mm. The hex head of the arm of the strut is 10mm.

You may be able to get the top nut off just with a 21mm socket. If you have trouble and have to hold the top hex head (10mm) with a wrench or vise-grip, then you'll need a 21mm open-end wrench too.

I only mention this because I happened to not have any metric sockets or wrenches larger than 19mm. This way you can see what you got and maybe make a tool run before you start.

mike2002 · 09-10-2004, 06:32 PM

ordering spring tech springs, with kyb gr-2's.....and companies like eibach recomend a "camber kit" or somthing........any truth to that? id assume when im all done i should take it for a 4 wheel alignment??

thanks!

sound_xtreme · 09-10-2004, 06:54 PM

no truth to that. the camber kit is worthless less you have a lot of drop(in the front at least) even then its not a big deal

11-28-2004, 02:32 AM

ordered st springs and kyb gr2's, was wondering if i should just get all new bearing plates and the boot part, id rather have my stock suspension in full in case something happens and i could just swap it back over........

mike2002 · 01-09-2005, 06:57 PM

id like to add somthing to the how to, also, maybe the admins or mods could erase some of the garbage up above......

When you take your strut assembly apart, inside the strut "boot" there is a white rubber spacer, id guess about 2-2.5" tall. remove this from the strut boot. this is your strut bumper. take a hacksaw, or somthing, and cut it at the first indent from the bottom. this should make the bumper about 1/2" shorter than it was before. then re-install it. do this when installing drop springs like springtech/intrax or anyspring that drops it 1.5" or more. when disassembling my springtech/kyb combo, i noticed my bumper had hit the bottom of the strut a few times. this is because the strut is more compressed to begin with, and can bottom out because of this, cutting this bumber gives the strut more "play" before it bottoms out.

also, and this is BIG. it seems that some kyb's do not come with a nut thats as tall as the stock strut. because of this, the kyb nut will not hold the mount to the strut. it seems newer mounts have a 1/2" spacer to compensate for this, some do, some dont. make sure if installing kyb struts, you either have that 1/2" spacer on top of your mount, or you get some washers and put them below your top nut, you can and WILL ruin your strut mounts without it. i didn't have that spacer, and ruined my strut mounts.

alero_ecotec · 03-10-2005, 09:45 AM

^ pic. flexing is not impressive in the slightest

03-12-2005, 05:46 AM

Very nice FAQ concerning the springs
It seems to be "doable" at home with friends (strong enough)
My question is alignement after lowering springs (thinking about eibach ones)
Do we need additional parts or the stock ones are enough ?

alero_ecotec · 03-24-2005, 09:04 PM

yeah, i'd like to know about alignment too? does it have to be done after seplacing the springs............ also, can this be done withougt an impact gun? .....also, couldnt you compress the spring with like some ratcheting straps?

AGT · 03-24-2005, 10:42 PM

Ratcheting straps is a crazy idea. These springs are meant to hold up something around a ton right? Those straps better be damn good.

alero_ecotec · 03-24-2005, 11:31 PM

yeah, but when you think about it those things are made out of Nylon, and they make nylon tow ropes, if you had to worry about anything failing it would be the metal mechanism itself....and i'm pretty sure they actually make a tool with the same ratcheting strap concept just a little fancied up to hold the spring off the ground vertically

alero_ecotec · 03-24-2005, 11:38 PM

plus, if you look on the pictures of installation in the 1st page to this thread, the guy just has one of his friends push down on the spring for him .........and idea if it can be done without an impact gun? of if an alignment is def. needed?

sound_xtreme · 03-25-2005, 01:47 AM

you dont need spring compressors if your putting drop springs on, only if you are doing stock springs. yes you need to have an alignment everytime you change suspension height. yes they make a "ratcheting tool" they are called spring compressor and local autozones will rent you them for a deposit of like 50 of which you get all back upon return of the tools.

2fst4u · 04-24-2005, 12:23 PM

I did this mod this weekend with the spring tech springs. it looks great all around. i had aftermarket struts up front, but the stocks in the back aren't doin too well with the drop. i would definately recommend getting new struts. i'm picking some up tomorrow. just make sure you do it before you get the alignment, save yourself the pain of doing it twice.

AND SOMEONE PLEASE EDIT THIS POST, IT'S ANNOYING! ^^

ryanthefizz · 04-26-2005, 10:03 AM

if im ordering struts and springs wouldnt it be worth while to get boots and the other stuff so i can just take the nuts off the strut tower and the nuts down by the wheels than swap a whole new set in? no compressing needed? seems logical to me.

08-13-2005, 12:16 PM

i changed the struts out yesterday, this was actually a piece of cake, tools i would great recommend: impact gun & spring compressor, other than those two normal hand tools will get the rest done, i had this all done in about 5 hours, but thats because i just worked 12 hours and it was about 90 degrees lol without the impact gun this would be such a pain, i got an electric one from harbor freight for like 40 bucks, totally worth the money let me tell you, i got the spring compressors from them as well for like 15 bucks.......and they worked great......through turns body roll was greatly reduced, bumps are absorbed really well, and normal street driving is much more smooth, oem struts were still on my car(93,000 miles) and only one of them would compress back up and it only went 1/3 of the way back up and that took it 2 hours to go that far so needless to say they were shot.......

sound_xtreme · 08-13-2005, 04:12 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by bigd6983@Aug 13 2005, 11:16 AM
and only one of them would compress back up and it only went 1/3 of the way back up and that took it 2 hours to go that far so needless to say they were shot.......

Quoted post

they arent really supposed to much. they are nothing like the kyb's. kyb's are gas charged, very different.