01-14-2010, 01:35 PM
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#21
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GX Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Niagara Falls, NY
Posts: 80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AleroDrime
cherry thats how my led needles r dont but how are yall getting the prnd321 to light blue, is there a way to change the color of ur miles too?
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Not sure how it is in the Alero, but most vehicles use a vacuum display for the mileage (green display). The answer is no, you cannot change the color using an easy method - other than replacing the board. You can lay a tint film over it, but you'll always have the green mixing with the color.
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2003 Alero GLS Coupe
 <--- Will eventually look this sexy.
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01-26-2010, 02:46 AM
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#22
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GL Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Wichita, KS
Posts: 529
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so what did you wire these to? did you wire them to a separate switch or did you wire them in so that they come on when you turn the headlights on?
also. on the oznium site, i did not see a 220 ohm 1/4 watt resistor. im guessing that you can use a resistor with a different ohm rating, same watt rating, with either more or less led's, correct? and since ohm is a measure of resistance, and the higher the ohms, the more resistance, would i be correct in assuming that if 220 ohms is good for 3 leds then something like 560 ohms would be good for 1? 2 maybe?
i guess im led-ignorant. school me if you will.
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2004 Olds Alero GL1 3400 V6
- infinity kappa speakers all around on an mtx 450wrms 4ch amp
- 2x kicker cvr's on 650wrms mono amp
- pioneer 4900iB head unit
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01-26-2010, 08:29 AM
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#23
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Now a Ford Traitor.
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Greenland
Posts: 6,996
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i've done this as well.... and am able to help anyone... i've gone LED nuts... PM meh if ya need halp
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01-26-2010, 11:13 AM
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#24
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The Aleromod PITA
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: East Carolina University, GVegas, NC
Posts: 1,852
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Quote:
Originally Posted by white04alero
so what did you wire these to? did you wire them to a separate switch or did you wire them in so that they come on when you turn the headlights on?
also. on the oznium site, i did not see a 220 ohm 1/4 watt resistor. im guessing that you can use a resistor with a different ohm rating, same watt rating, with either more or less led's, correct? and since ohm is a measure of resistance, and the higher the ohms, the more resistance, would i be correct in assuming that if 220 ohms is good for 3 leds then something like 560 ohms would be good for 1? 2 maybe?
i guess im led-ignorant. school me if you will.
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its two wires that are coming out the harness for the gauges, a gray and a gray striped one it think, you solder into those, id have to look to make sure its gray wires though
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01-26-2010, 12:40 PM
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#25
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Now a Ford Traitor.
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Greenland
Posts: 6,996
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AleroDrime
its two wires that are coming out the harness for the gauges, a gray and a gray striped one it think, you solder into those, id have to look to make sure its gray wires though
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DO NOT SOLDER!!!!!
Use quick taps or w/e, those are reversible
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01-27-2010, 10:33 AM
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#26
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I drive a JEEP!
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Salisbury, Maryland
Posts: 6,388
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nate's Alero
DO NOT SOLDER!!!!!
Use quick taps or w/e, those are reversible
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Also unreliable..they will eventually separate or cause an intermittent issue. Fused links always work the best.
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01-27-2010, 10:41 AM
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#27
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Now a Ford Traitor.
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Greenland
Posts: 6,996
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lonnie
Also unreliable..they will eventually separate or cause an intermittent issue. Fused links always work the best.
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yeah, never had an issue with taps if the area is not submittable to movement... when behind the gauge cluster, i think not lol
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01-27-2010, 11:45 AM
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#28
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The Aleromod PITA
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: East Carolina University, GVegas, NC
Posts: 1,852
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solders fine if you want to reverse it cut off the free wire and tape it up
+even red wire taps arent that effective on some of the factory wiring
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01-27-2010, 03:15 PM
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#29
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I drive a JEEP!
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Salisbury, Maryland
Posts: 6,388
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nate's Alero
yeah, never had an issue with taps if the area is not submittable to movement... when behind the gauge cluster, i think not lol
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Even though you haven't had a problem yet still doesn't make it a good idea. All vehicles have movement, I've seen plugs that plug into an outlet back out alittle bit over time with slight vibration..and that was in a tower building with just radios in it....even a small amount of vibration that you may not feel could cause a problem, so yes there is still vibration behind the gauge cluster. Nothing beats a fused link, or the piece of mind that comes along with it. To each his own everybody is going to do things the way they see fit. You would rather use taps...I would rather solder!
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01-27-2010, 07:18 PM
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#30
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Gone
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lockport Ny
Posts: 19,244
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i solder.. but i'll admit, i just recently changed all my gauge lights to one giant twisted wire connection w/ decent tape.
I got tired of soldering them all together, then soldering them all.. (7 (+) wires now with 1 common ground) It has been flawless for now, and it makes testing each easier, as well as pulling the unit out MUCH easier.
I would not recommend this for anyone though.  Solder, or use wire connectors.
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