ball joint

[AleroDrime]

First Off, I tried the search button, found a million and one "why is my car creaking?"s and pple having different sugestions as to why.

I finnally got pissed with the sound and went to the shop that did the lowering kit install, figuring it was related to that because the noise began right after. Had to wait two hours till someone got a chance to get in my car and drive it, I chose to be a pain in the ass and rode with him. As soon as he made a slow turn out of the parking spot, he admitted out loud somthings wrong (this shop is particulary good about honest what you needs and what you dont). We got back and put the car up on the lift and he started jerking and turning things with me watching. We also checked the strut positotioning, they didnt mix them up. In the end the problem was identified as the ball joint. (also come to find out the entire front driverside is from a salvage yard)

First thing i did was get a quote from them and drove it home to be parked( im miss my alero already driving a hundya sucks )
1. Called Autozone, one part mentioned for 46.99 instock
2.Went to Kitrells, HERES MY POINT they had 4 available 2 for 56 and 57, 2 for 92 and 93, both brands specified that one was specifically for the aluminum control arms and the other was for iron control arms WTF!!!!!!! (need help here)
3.Napa has one for 40.00

Local mechanic install 40 or 50 depending on if it has to be pressed in?
The shops cost with parts and labor 120

Is this aluminum or iron an issue anyones encountered or is familair with. Im figureing 20 extra for the shop to do it and garantee the work for a while is the best option, i just need to know if i need to let them know about this or if it is even an issue.
The control arm on this corner appears to be iron, as determined by a magnet

[knuckleballer32]

ummm i would just have a professional take care of it. sucks to hear the driver's side of your car is salvage. but i would take it to a shop you trust and have em do it, you know its going to get done right.

[AleroDrime]

thatd be 120 which is probably what i'm gonna do, im just need to know if these different metals is gonna be an issue after all

[clutch1]

If you plan on keeping your Alero, get a more expensive balljoint. If you plan to sell it in a year or two, get a cheaper one.

Balljoints are a wear item, and will eventually bite the dust, but you get to determine the approximate life-space of it.

[AleroDrime]

apparently aftermarket ones have grease fittings so they last longer then stock to begin with

[kwhauck]

Originally Posted by AleroRacing

apparently aftermarket ones have grease fittings so they last longer then stock to begin with

yep, those are what i have, some moog specials with greas fitting, which are mated to some aftermarket tubular control arms....

[meadus101]

All I can say is that when it comes to car parts,

Usually, You get what you pay for.

[clutch1]

Originally Posted by AleroRacing

apparently aftermarket ones have grease fittings so they last longer then stock to begin with

You can add rease fittings to your stock ones.. drill/tap a hole, and screw the fittings in. Done.

[pawzbear]

i would get the shop to do it. bringing your own parts is an ahoe thing to do, and it also shorts you of your warranty. A shop wont warranty it at all if you bring your own, and some may even will jack up labor b/c you are cutting into their profit margin.

Also, whenever a customer brings us their own parts, 100% of the time, the parts are dirt-cheap, shitty parts that i would NEVER buy. And if the part fails, you pay labor again to rip the thing back out. haha!

If you are wanting a deal on suspension parts but still want SOME quality.. look into Raybestos service grade (aka red box parts)

[AleroDrime]

No no I'm very versed in this my fam ran a boat trailer repair shop, I was just wanting to know if this aluminum or iron thing os an issue

[Oldsman]

honestly I thought all the control arms were Aluminum. never knew of iron ones. They did have like any years with those part numbers, did they? This is something interesting.

I am sure that the ball joints aren't really interchangeable but due to lack of knowledge on this topic and can't give you a intelligent answer.

Keep us posted on what you find out.

[Cliff8928]

Not iron, but stamped steel. '99 was the only year for aluminum.

[AleroDrime]

well im assuming mine is iron hence a magnet held to it

[AleroDrime]

Drime effing mage, I got the bill from the shop effers blind sided me 180 dollars, now most the noise is gone, but the loud pop that concerned me most is still there.
Let me see if I can provide some more clues to you guys.
The sound occurs usually while turning the wheel extreme degrees at idleing or almost no speed. It isn't at the end of the turn or the beginning. It usually pops somewhere towards the middle of the turn. its not aways when then well is being turned, it happens some times when it is straitening back out

[AleroDrime]

Drime effing mage, I got the bill from the shop effers blind sided me 180 dollars, now most the noise is gone, but the loud pop that concerned me most is still there.
Let me see if I can provide some more clues to you guys.
The sound occurs usually while turning the wheel extreme degrees at idleing or almost no speed. It isn't at the end of the turn or the beginning. It usually pops somewhere towards the middle of the turn. its not aways when then well is being turned, it happens some times when it is straitening back out

[clutch1]

Upper strut mount is shot.

[A57]

Originally Posted by clutch1

Upper strut mount is shot.

Bingo!! when you lower a car you have to replace the upper strut plate, while the shop has it apart have them slip on the new one and that will make the poping noise go away...(most of the time)

i got lucky with mine when i lower my car.. a long time ago..

good luck..

[AleroDrime]

you mean the boot that the strut attaches too, that then bolts to the tower, why and how would that get shot, and why only on one side

[clutch1]

The upper strut mount has a large ball bearing that gets sandwiched between the top of the spring and the bottom of the metal plate that bolts to the car's body. This allows the bottom of the strut to rotate with the knuckle when steering, but the top doesn't since it's fixed the body.

These ball bearings get water in them and rust out sometimes, and won't rotate freely. Simple as that. The other side may not have gotten water in it, who knows, it could be on its way out, too.

The popping you hear is the spring getting tension trying to turn, then when it finally goes "pop" it just did turn like it was trying to.

You just gotta pull the strut, compress it (if you don't wanna die), remove the nut from the top, pull off everything above the strut and replace it, put it all back together and back onto the car.

[goldalero99]

Originally Posted by clutch1

The upper strut mount has a large ball bearing that gets sandwiched between the top of the spring and the bottom of the metal plate that bolts to the car's body. This allows the bottom of the strut to rotate with the knuckle when steering, but the top doesn't since it's fixed the body.

These ball bearings get water in them and rust out sometimes, and won't rotate freely. Simple as that. The other side may not have gotten water in it, who knows, it could be on its way out, too.

The popping you hear is the spring getting tension trying to turn, then when it finally goes "pop" it just did turn like it was trying to.

You just gotta pull the strut, compress it (if you don't wanna die), remove the nut from the top, pull off everything above the strut and replace it, put it all back together and back onto the car.

I agree. Still sounds like a problem with the upper strut mount and the bearings in there. How confident are you with the mechanics at this shop?
I hope you didn't replace the ball joints for no reason.