Replacing Lower Intake Gaskets - How Tough Is It?

OK, so I discovered today that I've got the "dreaded lower-intake" leakage. Underside of the oil fill cap looked like crap. I'm pretty familiar w/ bolt-on type stuff, I've done a fair bit of the work on my "performance car", but I haven't done anything under the Alero's hood. I guess I have three questions (at least to start with...):

How bad is it to do the work yourself?;

Are there any "gotchas" I need to watch out for?;

What kinds of tools will I need (beyond the std torque wrench, etc.)?

Thanks in advance,

T.

[MilzyZ34]

Originally posted by MaxTorque@Jan 21 2005, 10:48 PM
OK, so I discovered today that I've got the "dreaded lower-intake" leakage. Underside of the oil fill cap looked like crap. I'm pretty familiar w/ bolt-on type stuff, I've done a fair bit of the work on my "performance car", but I haven't done anything under the Alero's hood. I guess I have three questions (at least to start with...):

How bad is it to do the work yourself?;

Are there any "gotchas" I need to watch out for?;

What kinds of tools will I need (beyond the std torque wrench, etc.)?

Thanks in advance,

T.

i've done a few of them, they're not too bad, but can be tricky the first time. the biggest suggestion i have is to be very anal to keep the valvetrain matched with the exact valve they came off of.

tools you'll probably need ...
jackstands
jack
ratchet, metric sockets, extensions, etc
low-torque torque wrench
9/16", and i think 1/2" line-wrenches
razorblades

pretty standard stuff really

SWEET! Thanks for the reply, sounds like I'm good to go then. :thumbsup: I've already got all the tools exc. for the torque wrench, & I was going to need that for the cyl. head swap on my T/A anyway...

(OK, wait a sec - when you say "line wrenches", are you referring to open-end-type wrenches for A/C lines, etc.?)

Thanks again, that really takes a load off my mind...

[MilzyZ34]

a line-wrench is like a box end wrench with a section cut out of it to slip over the line.

Is that $1150US? That's really high... it should be $600-$800.

OK, thanks again Milzy, that sounds like the tool that I have pictured...

And yes, that is $1150 US, the guy told me that he saw this all the time. Guess they've figured out that this can be a profit item for them...

On a semi-related note, does anyone know where I can get a factory shop manual for my Alero? I've already got one for my 'bird, might as well start a collection...

Thanks again.

How many miles do you have? If it's less than 60k you might be able to get GM to pay for half of it. I got my dealer to pay for half, and since they have to use warranty labor rates, it cost me $200.

[ImSoBored]

I had mine fixed at gatos or what ever it was around 1k

[Youngblood77]

Mine was done @ my local repair shop, for $515.00 tax and 180 thermostat included. Worth every penny IMO. see how much the replacement revised gasket set costs? Subtract that from the 515 and you'll see why I think it was worth it to have it done by a mechanic. I could have done it myself, but not NEAR as fast. That 1K estimate is a total ripoff man.

where can you get the gaskets from? just a local auto store or special?

[MilzyZ34]

i'll do the job for 300 plus gaskets if anyone needs it B)

[K Dan]

How many of you guys have got GM to goodwill this repair? I have an 03 and had mine done around 30k miles now a year later at 43k, it's leaking again. So I'm bringin it back to the dealer to see GM will goodwill it. For those of you that have done it, do you use any RTV or other gasket dressing? When the dealer did, I don't know if they used too much which may have caused it to leak again because you can see a whole lot of the crap all around the intake.

[AftermathAlero]

if your doing it yourself.. no need for the most tools mentioned.

you'll need mainly a 8mm, 10mm, 13mm, 15mm regular and deep sockets. 10mm wrench, 9/16 wrench for fuel line, swivel socket adaptor, extensions .. pliers for the coolant hoses, Inch pound torque wrench and foot pound torque wrench.

thats 90% of the tools.

dont forget the 7mm socket for the map sensor

you dont need to remove the fuel rail or fuel line. just unbolt the lower intake and move it out of the way.

if you prefer to remove the fuel rail, get the fuel line removal tool and DO NOT mess with the FPR and the feed line into the rail. your only asking for trouble when you loose those o-rings or pinch one when you put it back in.

do it right and take the fuel lines off with the proper tool at the proper location.


a 10mm RATCHETING box wrench is the best tool to have for this and those 2 pesky 10 mm bolts that hold down the very end of the lower intake.

if you dont have a ratcheting wrench, god help you and your tired arms after taking 2 of those off with 1/8 turns each time.

oh yea, i forgot, i can do this in LESS than 2 hours and the gaskets only cost $45 from most parts stores.

you will need an oil change and a 50/50 mix of coolant to fill up the radiator again

total in supplies should not exceed $75


and get a Haynes Manual. it tells you how to take the intakes off and has some good tips to help you along.

16 hours and 240.00 later, mine is fixed...But we also put on new plugs, wires, pcv, belt, injector o rings and some other things too....but woooooooo no more leaky leaky. :thumbsup:

[slowandlow]

i had mine replaced twice but i have a warentee. and extended warentee. i did get olds to good will my window fix.