battery

AleroDrime · 03-20-2009, 11:07 PM

hey real quick, low on budget right now but an getting a new head, wich means the subs and amp are being hooked up, the amp draws 12 volts, but ofcourse thats only when it hits hard, should the stock size battery befine for a month or so of should i hold off longer on ataching that power cable

Ryan from Ohio · 03-21-2009, 10:15 AM

The amp dont draw voltage. It accepts whatever voltage you present it.

If you dont have subs in no sense in having the amp hooked up. Also the stock battery should be fine. Your running it all off the alternator anyhow.

cherrington17 · 03-21-2009, 10:42 AM

ok.. lesson time.

Voltage is the amount of electrons present. Amperage is the FLOW of electrons, thus, a quantity of power. Your amp when it hits hard, will draw the same amount of Voltage, but a higher amount of Amperage. Your car's battery has 12V @ X amount of Amps. (abbreviated to A)

When your engine is running, its recharging the battery, and powering the car as well. Your stock alt does ~14.4V @ 110A. Which varies as your car's rpm raises and lowers. (higher rpm = more amperage) At idle, the output is somewhere around 85-90A.

Your battery normally holds 300-400A (varies due to ambient air temp) Once thats drained (due to chemical nature of lead acid batteries) they don't recharge well.

If your planning a system, get a optima red or yellow top from Silentalero. If your not, stock battery is fine. Get a overdrive pulley for your alternator from ExcessiveAmperage.com (cargodz is the member on here who owns?/works there) If your going big w/ your sound system (ryan can quote Watts per power drain if you need specifics) then upgrade your alternator to a high output one. (i opted for high output AND overdrive pulley)

AleroDrime · 03-22-2009, 05:24 PM

i have subs?

AleroDrime · 03-22-2009, 05:25 PM

everyones always told me that when i install my subs and amp i need a bigger battery to handle it, im wondering if the stock battery could for a while

cherrington17 · 03-22-2009, 05:40 PM

yes. you only need a bigger battery, if your consistently running them w/ your car off.

AleroDrime · 03-22-2009, 06:41 PM

so if i dont mess around wiht the subs while the car is off ill be fine for a while

Ryan from Ohio · 03-22-2009, 06:47 PM

Until the current battery dies.

All the battery does is start the car.

Unless your playing music with the car off it makes 0 difference.

cherrington17 · 03-22-2009, 06:48 PM

yes. your car running, should never drain the battery. if it does, you have a bad alternator.

Kilroy · 03-22-2009, 07:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cherrington17

ok.. lesson time.

Voltage is the amount of electrons present. Amperage is the FLOW of electrons, thus, a quantity of power. Your amp when it hits hard, will draw the same amount of Voltage, but a higher amount of Amperage. Your car's battery has 12V @ X amount of Amps. (abbreviated to A)

When your engine is running, its recharging the battery, and powering the car as well. Your stock alt does ~14.4V @ 110A. Which varies as your car's rpm raises and lowers. (higher rpm = more amperage) At idle, the output is somewhere around 85-90A.

Your battery normally holds 300-400A (varies due to ambient air temp) Once thats drained (due to chemical nature of lead acid batteries) they don't recharge well.

If your planning a system, get a optima red or yellow top from Silentalero. If your not, stock battery is fine. Get a overdrive pulley for your alternator from ExcessiveAmperage.com (cargodz is the member on here who owns?/works there) If your going big w/ your sound system (ryan can quote Watts per power drain if you need specifics) then upgrade your alternator to a high output one. (i opted for high output AND overdrive pulley)

Just to add an extra note here Cherry. The Amp figures you stated are what the alternator is capable of. Your system will only draw as much amperage as it needs. If you have nothing electrical on at idle (cept the engine of course) there will be a lower current draw than if you have one bad-azz stereo going full tilt.

I say this, because some people think that installing a higher output alternator will harm their system cause it puts out more amperage. Regardless if you have a 20amp alternator, or 400amp alternator (just picking #'s) your system will only draw as much current (amperage) as it needs.

colonel6632 · 03-22-2009, 09:33 PM

I know you guys have said it all for him... But I've got 2 12" kicker subs and a 1000w rms amp running from my stock battery and alternator... Not good i know... But it's been fine for months... I've also heard doing the big 3 upgrade helps and is cheap

AleroDrime · 03-26-2009, 09:55 PM

would a larger duralast or something from autozone work

cherrington17 · 03-26-2009, 10:01 PM

save your money and just get one from silentalero. if your replacing your battery, get something really good.

yellowtops can be recharged from completely dead, and redtops are the best for starting/charging (have the quickest response) Optima FTW

Redog · 03-26-2009, 10:59 PM

I can say that both the yellow and red tops are great batteries.

The red still holds 720 cold starting amps after 3.5 years, and the yellow top was crushed in the accident with the Delta, and everything still worked

xsavyor1 · 03-30-2009, 10:35 PM

Kinetiks!!! they have been great for me!!

colonel6632 · 03-31-2009, 04:27 AM

AC DELCO!!!!

lol... jk jk

... but sadly thats what i'm still rocking... came new with the car. lol