Don't Laugh At Me. - Page 2

mikegett · 02-11-2006, 10:12 AM

Circuit City was correct. 500 watts shouldn't be enough to drain the electrical. How old is your car? If your vehicle is over three years old then the battery could be poor. The bad thing is that a poor battery will kill your altenator as well. I strongly suggest any individual have there battery and alt tested prior to spending the money on a system. Battery and altenators (installed by you) will easily cost close to 300 dollars. If you have a lack of funds,you can always wait on the system. If your electrical system fails then you are screwed. I bought my alero brand new and had to replace the battery after one year. I will also add that the alero is the first out of four delco altenators that has lasted three years for me. I have very little faith in there products. If you do buy a new alt, then get a guality aftermarket.

exnine@gmail.com · 02-11-2006, 11:25 AM

Alright. That makes sense. I have a 99. And I have had it for a little over a year. And haven't replaced the battery, or the alternator.

now. once I put my other amp in. that's going to be about 1,500 watt's. isnt their something else I should get. That seems to me like its going to drain my battery.

thanks.

mikegett · 02-12-2006, 04:39 PM

The factory alt and battery (when new) are rated for 110 or 120 amps. That is pretty good for a system. I normaly recommend installing a system and then testing your current draw to see if a new or upgraded alt is needed. Since your car is pretty old, it may be better off to get a upgraded alt now. I believe the 220 amp alt is the top of the line. It seems like the price is around 300.
I do need to state that a amplifiers wattage rating has little to do with your current draw. The accuracy of your amp rating, how your sub or speaker is wired, box enclosure, deadening, music listened to, and personal taste in volume all contribute to how much current is used. Look at my sig. My three amps have a possible RMS of 1280 watts. The max wattage could be 2120 watts. I am not even using close to this amount. In reality, the sub amp is probably the closest true rating. The particular sub used needed over 500 watts to sound pretty good. My guess is that I was normaly running 600 on the sub and 100 to 150 on the front and rear stage. To guess high, I would say that I ran 70-80 amps off of my system continuously. Leaving plenty of head room for the 120 amp alt. List your current amp, future amps, speakers, sub, and sub enclosure type. Let us know what type of music you listen to (rock will require very little current opposed to rap) and how loud you like it.

exnine@gmail.com · 02-18-2006, 03:44 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by mikegett@Feb 12 2006, 04:39 PM

The factory alt and battery (when new) are rated for 110 or 120 amps. That is pretty good for a system. I normaly recommend installing a system and then testing your current draw to see if a new or upgraded alt is needed. Since your car is pretty old, it may be better off to get a upgraded alt now. I believe the 220 amp alt is the top of the line. It seems like the price is around 300.
I do need to state that a amplifiers wattage rating has little to do with your current draw. The accuracy of your amp rating, how your sub or speaker is wired, box enclosure, deadening, music listened to, and personal taste in volume all contribute to how much current is used. Look at my sig. My three amps have a possible RMS of 1280 watts. The max wattage could be 2120 watts. I am not even using close to this amount. In reality, the sub amp is probably the closest true rating. The particular sub used needed over 500 watts to sound pretty good. My guess is that I was normaly running 600 on the sub and 100 to 150 on the front and rear stage. To guess high, I would say that I ran 70-80 amps off of my system continuously. Leaving plenty of head room for the 120 amp alt. List your current amp, future amps, speakers, sub, and sub enclosure type. Let us know what type of music you listen to (rock will require very little current opposed to rap) and how loud you like it.

Quoted post

Hey, I've decided on going with a new alternator. I don't know much about them. But since you do. I was wondering if you could point me in the right direction of where I could find not neccisarily a Top of the line alternator. But one that will be able to do the job with out much hastle. I suspect this will be something I have to order, and can't pick up at auto zone or what not. Anyone you particularly refer? thanks.

cherrington17 · 02-12-2006, 09:28 PM

i had a similar problem. 1400W of subs and when they hit (not even close to loud ) and my lights would dim. even after i put in a new redtop battery.

i put in a 1.0F cap my friend gave me and no more dimming. i'm not saying its your solution, but it worked in my instance. (if i get any more power, i'm getting a new alt)

02-13-2006, 04:41 PM

caps are good but not a cureall....i know once i have my new Type X components installed im going to HAVE to get a new 4 channel as my New Type X components can take 60 watt RMS and my current Alpine 3526 will NOT be able to do that its rated to do 20 wattx4 RMS@4ohms only the ONLY way id be able to do close the needed watts rms for my Type Xs would be to bridge my 4 channel down to 2 channels and lose my rear 6x9s.

. so ill be spending to get a new 4 Channel Amp sometime and right after that i KNOW ill have to update my charging system with a new Alt and 2 Stinger batteries. once again more jobs for American TV and Furniture....The Alt ill buy and Do myself as its an easy job maybe an hour at most and save myself install money...the twin batteries and mounting and wiring setup..ill have American hook me up with brand new wiring for my current setup that will stand up to at least 2500 watt max or maybe 3000. and then....oh yes 2 Alpine Type X 12"s in a giant sealed enclosure and a V12 Monoblock for em.

violentrapture · 02-18-2006, 09:25 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by dt_freak1@Feb 13 2006, 03:41 PM
... its rated to do 20 wattx4 RMS@4ohms only the ONLY way id be able to do close the needed watts rms for my Type Xs would be to bridge my 4 channel down to 2 channels and lose my rear 6x9s. .

Unless you're running surround sound for movies (or surround mixed music like DVD-A), losing the rear fill is a good thing. For two-channel reproduction, e.g. music, you don't want to hear the back speakers. SQ setups usually either have no rear fill at all or the rear fill is powered very lightly off of the head unit. Whether you're running the 137R or 177R, with a proper install and power they're all you need.

Cheers,
~vR

mikegett · 02-20-2006, 12:44 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by violentrapture+Feb 18 2006, 02:25 PM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(violentrapture @ Feb 18 2006, 02:25 PM)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteBegin-dt_freak1@Feb 13 2006, 03:41 PM
... its rated to do 20 wattx4 RMS@4ohms onlyÂ;-) the ONLY way id be able to do close the needed watts rms for my Type Xs would be to bridge my 4 channel down to 2 channels and lose my rear 6x9s.Â;-) .

Unless you're running surround sound for movies (or surround mixed music like DVD-A), losing the rear fill is a good thing. For two-channel reproduction, e.g. music, you don't want to hear the back speakers. SQ setups usually either have no rear fill at all or the rear fill is powered very lightly off of the head unit. Whether you're running the 137R or 177R, with a proper install and power they're all you need.

Cheers,
~vR

Quoted post

[/b][/quote]

Just remember that sound is subjective. What one individual finds to be pleasing, another may dislike. I would never suggest a cassual driver to model his or her system off a SQ install. Alot of time and money is placed into speaker imaging that the normal driver will never have. The other aspect is the cabin pressure for those vehicles. They are being tested at conciderably high volumes. Low volumes create off axis speakers and cannot be fixed with speaker imaging. Unless I am driving a short bed truck, I prefer rearfill. Most of this has to do with my volume level. 80 percent of the time I have a wife in the vehicle and that means low volumes. Rear fill helps to pull the sound around you opposed to being in front, to the left, or to the right. If the front stage is going to be amped and rearfill is used, then concider amping the rear as well. You won't need as much wattage but the HU will distort the rear speakers far sooner than a small external amp.

SweetNLow · 02-18-2006, 04:11 AM

actually u can get a dam good one at autozone.

i got the duralast GOLD alternator. it has a lifetime warrenty on it. its alittle more money but its worth it. espically if u run a system. get it replaced for free if u fry it

cherrington17 · 02-18-2006, 09:26 PM

exnine, also check out www.mralternator.com

check for the "performance" alt for grand ams...

mikegett · 02-20-2006, 12:22 AM

The duragold alt is pretty good. At autozone it will run about 150 dollars with a trade in of your previous alt. Since you have no choice but to replace your altenator, I would go with the grand am high performance. It is rated for about 45 amps more than the duragold and costs 180. We can't test your current amperage pull because your old alt is faulty. The last thing we would want is for you to be underpowered. The added benefit of the 160 amps is that there will be a extended life span on the new altenator. Personaly, I think the lower alt will be sufficient for your new system. But concidering the circumstances, go for the higher rating.

derek_ski99 · 02-20-2006, 04:54 PM

crutchfield had some nice deals on woofers. Theres a set of polk 12's for sale there for like 290 some i believe in a box. from what my audio guru buddy said they sound incredible....coming from someone who used to own an audio shop and competes in SQ competitions thats pretty good.

Its really all about how you have your system tweaked and your box and positioning more than anything else. Good connections etc... Just getting the most powerful amps you can find and woofers doesnt mean its going to sound amazing. That buddy of mine is running less wattage to his subs than I am and his are incredibly loud (granted they are 12s).

Annnd if you really want everything to sound good i suggest you invest in some tweeters and good 4x6s and amplify them all..not just the 6x9's because your subs usually engulf the mids