3.4 Pacesetter Headers - Page 4

XanderWiFi · 03-23-2011, 04:16 PM

Which I had before with only the exhaust, but I guess it is worse now with the larger pipes and fiercer airflow.

I'll check it out Luca, but i don't think this is an instance of a miss.

Ttop191 · 03-23-2011, 04:20 PM

definitely not missing, engine still sounds smooth, i would bet on heat shields

XanderWiFi · 03-23-2011, 05:10 PM

Here's a question: If they cut and spliced the wire to the O2 sensor, will un-splicing it, reconnecting it, attaching a harness illeviate that problem? I didn't see it, but sounds to me that if resistance is an issue, it is simply ruined now.

In essence: how the heck do I reverse this?

03-23-2011, 06:23 PM

Where did they make the splice? If it was between the O2 sensor and it's weatherpack connector, you can just get the harness extension from Casper's Electronics and a new O2 sensor. Install and you should be good.
If they cut the O2 weatherpack connector off the main harness, you're kinda SOL.
I'll bet dollars to donuts if you fix the O2 sensor the surging goes away. If the PCM can't get a good reading from the O2, it kinda goes into limp mode a bit....almost like it would when unplugging the MAF sensor (unless you have done a good VE tune).

XanderWiFi · 03-23-2011, 06:33 PM

I concur. But I am unfamiliar with what you mean by the wiring. Weatherpack connectors and such...I would know: male/female ends and the wire in between lol.

The coolant leak is a matter of tightening things back up. OR in a perfect world, a lot of it pooled around my engine compartment and didn't spill until I stopped in my garage and not at all my other stops in between...hmm...I am thinking a leak lol.

XanderWiFi · 03-23-2011, 10:08 PM

So I overheated on the way home and had to be towed. effing happy days. So now that it looks like this leak has drained my radiator reserve dry, what do I have to look forward to in making sure that the cooling system functions properly? Because if it has run out, then I am sure it is full of air.

Mike The Canadian · 03-24-2011, 01:18 AM

Crap, that sounds awful. As for bleeding the system of air. There's a brass valve that needs to be opened (It's on the top of that black thing that goes across the engine, it connects to the coolant reservoir and engine). Hopefully someone can chime in with a pic; however be careful with the brass valve as it's easy to snap (brass is really soft).

The real concern with this however is how hot did you get? These engines use aluminum heads which can warp very easily if the car overheats. I'd be worried about head gaskets more than anything at this point. Hopefully all is well though, gotta track down that leak. Take the car back to the shop because it seems like they screwed you.

Cliff8928 · 03-24-2011, 01:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by XanderWiFi

I concur. But I am unfamiliar with what you mean by the wiring. Weatherpack connectors and such...I would know: male/female ends and the wire in between lol.

The coolant leak is a matter of tightening things back up. OR in a perfect world, a lot of it pooled around my engine compartment and didn't spill until I stopped in my garage and not at all my other stops in between...hmm...I am thinking a leak lol.

Well, by weatherpack (it's actually a MicroPack 150) he means the connector to the oxygen sensor. Did they splice on the sensor side of the harness or the engine side of the harness?

It's not actually that hard to repair it if it was on the engine side of the harness, you just need the right tools and parts.

XanderWiFi · 03-24-2011, 12:41 PM

It didn't go into the red type of overheating. I had been keeping a close eye on it and set the limit at the 3/4 mark. Once it started to touch above that point I shut it down and called for a tow since I have roadside assistance.

I asked him about the cable and he said it would be easy to reverse since they just spliced more wire into the existing wire. I am thinking that they will be paying for the new O2 sensor, harness and anything in between for this bullcrap. I paid $320 for the installation and labor and they didn't even put in the shiny aftermarket bolts that I bought from Ben because the guy said that he pulled an executive decision and thinks the stock bolts will be better.

I am trying not to blow my lid, but i am getting close with it.

I will say this though: with the headers, you can hear the increase airflow getting sucked through the CAI much more. That aspect is pretty cool.

JLw7123 · 03-24-2011, 01:02 PM

sounds like that garage did something to your car. Did the mechanic give you a reason why he used the stock bolts. Was the coolant reservoir full when you took the car to the garage. because it should not empty that fast unless you have a leak somewere. you should not have to pay for them to fix it because they are the ones who messed it up.

Mike The Canadian · 03-24-2011, 01:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by XanderWiFi

It didn't go into the red type of overheating. I had been keeping a close eye on it and set the limit at the 3/4 mark. Once it started to touch above that point I shut it down and called for a tow since I have roadside assistance.

I asked him about the cable and he said it would be easy to reverse since they just spliced more wire into the existing wire. I am thinking that they will be paying for the new O2 sensor, harness and anything in between for this bullcrap. I paid $320 for the installation and labor and they didn't even put in the shiny aftermarket bolts that I bought from Ben because the guy said that he pulled an executive decision and thinks the stock bolts will be better.

I am trying not to blow my lid, but i am getting close with it.

I will say this though: with the headers, you can hear the increase airflow getting sucked through the CAI much more. That aspect is pretty cool.

Good call on not letting her overheat! I understand your frustration; sucks on them not putting on Ben's bolts. If Ben recommends it, it's very likely that its a smart choice. Hopefully the shop gives a crap about their reputation and takes care of your car

XanderWiFi · 03-25-2011, 12:17 PM

So far it looks like the u2 sensor cord melted on the manifold. There was too much air in the coolant system and it may have broke the release valve. I asked about why they didn't use bens bolts and they told me that the bolts they put on are made of a stronger material. That's the news so far.

AleroB888 · 03-25-2011, 12:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by XanderWiFi

So far it looks like the u2 sensor cord melted on the manifold. There was too much air in the coolant system and it may have broke the release valve. I asked about why they didn't use bens bolts and they told me that the bolts they put on are made of a stronger material. That's the news so far.

Reminder: Also make sure the power steering hoses are insulated and not touching any header pipes. If one of those leaks you'll have a hell of a mess, it happened to one of mine.

XanderWiFi · 03-25-2011, 03:56 PM

Thanks. I bought header wrap to wrap those. I will throw up pictures later to show the spots I wrapped so others can refer to them. Header wrap will work for insulating those right?

Everything seems to be cool now, and I do enjoy having them. I stopped at a place that does tuning but apparently I have to buy an hptuners kit to get dyno tuned-bummer.

The only bad part is that my SES light remains on because I am running lean now. Is there any other way to correct that other than a tune? I know if you run lean for too long you will burn the valves out and whatnot.

Looks like I have to convince the wife for some more money...

Lucalare · 03-25-2011, 04:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by XanderWiFi

Thanks. I bought header wrap to wrap those. I will throw up pictures later to show the spots I wrapped so others can refer to them. Header wrap will work for insulating those right?

Everything seems to be cool now, and I do enjoy having them. I stopped at a place that does tuning but apparently I have to buy an hptuners kit to get dyno tuned-bummer.

The only bad part is that my SES light remains on because I am running lean now. Is there any other way to correct that other than a tune? I know if you run lean for too long you will burn the valves out and whatnot.

Looks like I have to convince the wife for some more money...

You could put the stock air box back on, or in some way restrict air flow into or out of the engine until you get a tune. Yes it defeats the purpose of having headers but you definitely don't want to run lean and have to rebuild/replace your heads.

XanderWiFi · 03-25-2011, 04:57 PM

Unfortunately, I don't have the stock box anymore and I doubt I would take the time to run that all over the place again lol. I spoke to ben who said the lean code could be a leak that is letting outside air in. Anyone know a quick and easy way to diagnose a leak?

When I saw a lean code I told the guy that I can't have that because of burning up the engine components. He was surprised that I was so knowledgeable about the inter-workings of things. I can thank you guys for helping me out with this and everything else.

In any case, I plan to get that tuner and get a tune and then go back and look for exhaust leaks. Another $500 out the window...

AleroB888 · 03-25-2011, 05:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by XanderWiFi

.........The only bad part is that my SES light remains on because I am running lean now. ...

Did that surging of the idle up and down get corrected?

What particular code is it reading now? Does the code take some time to reappear if the code is reset by the scanner?

XanderWiFi · 03-25-2011, 08:08 PM

Here are the two locations I have found that could use protective heat wrap due to their proximity to the new headers. There is a line in the back of the engine (a real pita to wrap...) that I believe is a steering pump line. The other is obvious in the front. Look for the gray wrapped tubes-can't believe a layer or two of that will keep them from burning...comments welcome.

XanderWiFi · 03-25-2011, 08:16 PM

Here is the problem with the SES light: because of my overlay, I can't see it unless I am in dim lighting. And since I live in the sun city, I was only in a dimly lit area when I pulled into my garage at home-done with the daily activities.

Right now I do not know what code it is throwing. Before it was throwing a radiator code (needed to be bled off), an o2 sensor code (because the line at gotten burned on the header, and a lean code. The first two issue have been corrected though it still does surge a little bit here and there but overall, idles decently. So I believe it to be the lean code.

Now what really sucks is I work forever and don't have any days off to investigate further...so I just have to hope I am not too lean or there isn't a huge issue.

AleroB888 · 03-25-2011, 11:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by XanderWiFi

Here is the problem with the SES light: because of my overlay, I can't see it unless I am in dim lighting. And since I live in the sun city, I was only in a dimly lit area when I pulled into my garage at home-done with the daily activities.

Right now I do not know what code it is throwing. Before it was throwing a radiator code (needed to be bled off), an o2 sensor code (because the line at gotten burned on the header, and a lean code. The first two issue have been corrected though it still does surge a little bit here and there but overall, idles decently. So I believe it to be the lean code.

Now what really sucks is I work forever and don't have any days off to investigate further...so I just have to hope I am not too lean or there isn't a huge issue.

The setup looks good, a lot better than my TOGs at this point. What you have wrapped looks adequate, but the steering hose I mean is accessible from under the car. It already comes with some heat wrap on it stock, but I would put some more on it anyway. It may be OK as it is, but you should raise the car and inspect it.

Here is a list of the O2 sensor codes and Rich/Lean codes. Sometimes they will pop up one time, then when cleared, not reappear after the PCM corrects for it. Some codes need 2 successive failures to trip:

You still may have an O2 "heater circuit" or "slow response" code, which can happen when changing exhausts.