07-30-2008, 12:44 PM
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#21
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Gone
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lockport Ny
Posts: 19,244
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i can mount as is, right now. but the woofer rubber makes a slight contact w/ the plastic inside the door. which is what ruined the first pair... so i don't want to do that again.
so it fits... just not properly.
still looking for input/info/help as to if i'm even doing this right. anyone who has done this before... please?
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07-30-2008, 05:25 PM
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#22
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I drive a JEEP!
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Salisbury, Maryland
Posts: 6,388
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Why not just mount it to the out side of the panel....in post 16 in the top pic, just flip it around then put the grill over it to fill it in. The alternative is cutting the metal to flush it, or maybe cut just enough to push it an exceptable back from the door panel.
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07-30-2008, 05:39 PM
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#23
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Gone
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lockport Ny
Posts: 19,244
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it wouldn't mount flat... the basket is just too big. i'd be cutting into the plastic on each side, which would result in a leveling/angling nightmare. if i could, i certainly would.
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07-30-2008, 05:50 PM
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#24
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I drive a JEEP!
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Salisbury, Maryland
Posts: 6,388
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Welp looks like you going to have to cut the metal, I would save it so that if you wanted to you could get it welded back in. Shouldn't take long to cut that with a dremel. It also depends on how much work and time you are willing to put into this cause the ideal thing to do would be to glass it into the door.
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07-30-2008, 06:14 PM
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#25
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Gone
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lockport Ny
Posts: 19,244
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yeah... i might have to go to that.... at some point. right now, i'm gonna have to cut. *sigh*
i'd glass, if i had more time/money. I could certainly learn, but w/o the first two, i don't even want to try.
but for the guys who glass.... how do you mount the glassed part?? obviously you gotta remove the whole plastic part, by cutting those plastic rivets... but how do you reattach it?
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07-30-2008, 07:27 PM
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#26
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Master of my Domain
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Toledo, Ohio
Posts: 4,072
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Hey Einstein...
Make a 3/4 MDF Baffle up!
Mount the baffle to the door, mid to the baffle.
Dont cut the shit out of your sheet metal. Then the stock stuff will never go back on. Sounds like you will be hitting the window track anyhow...
If the baffle deal wont work...
Get new mids... Or get to glassing. No other option.
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-Ryan
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07-30-2008, 07:39 PM
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#27
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Gone
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lockport Ny
Posts: 19,244
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ok... can you clarify what you mean by "make a 3/4 mdf baffle"??
i have a 4x6-6.5" speaker adapter plate... even with that, the speaker mounts right into place just fine, BUT the woofer is still against the plastic on the inside of the door... which is what caused the first rip. So how to i avoid that issue the second time? maybe put a small ring over the speaker between that and the door plastic??
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07-30-2008, 08:37 PM
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#28
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Master of my Domain
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Toledo, Ohio
Posts: 4,072
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Oh I didnt know you had an adapter.
But with the MDF you can choose your location a bit better...
Like you could move it to the back more, giving yourself more room.
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-Ryan
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07-30-2008, 08:47 PM
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#29
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Gone
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lockport Ny
Posts: 19,244
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i'd need to move it forward (toward the engine) if they are gonna clear the window/brace and not hit the door....
maybe i can sand the inside plastic a little to keep it away from the woofer... hmmm
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07-31-2008, 04:02 AM
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#30
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GL Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: nazareth pa
Posts: 410
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well how much clearence do you need?
are we talking like less than 1/4"? if so i say just get something to put between the speaker and door
dynamat? peel 'n' seal(whatever that cheapo lowes stuff is)?
^^(just throwing out ideas that popped into my head at 4 in the morn)
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00 alero
so far: jvc cd player, sony xplod speakers, jl 1000/1 amp
2 12" kicker cvr, wai, green underglow
coming soon: some led's, better subs
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08-02-2008, 08:47 AM
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#31
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Master of my Domain
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Toledo, Ohio
Posts: 4,072
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I dont see why you are having so much of an issue.
True my mids were only 5 1/4" but I built up a rather decent sized fiberglass adapter on the same angle as the 4X6 plastic piece.
Get so pics of the big plastic adapters and inside the door panel. Forget what it looks like.
Or better yet drive you car over here. I got some free time today.
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-Ryan
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08-02-2008, 09:05 AM
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#32
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Gone
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lockport Ny
Posts: 19,244
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ya. i wish. i'm in my bro's wedding today.
i did get them in, just had to do a little cutting. I know... i can't go back to factory equip, but i'm driving this car into the ground, and then selling it for scrap metal.. so i don't care that the 4x6s won't fit anymore.
the doors are back together (but the passanger side one rattles so i gotta fix that one of these days) but i can tell you exactly where the issue was.
With the adapters in place, and right where the 4x6s were, the woofer rubber was touching the door plastic where the outer ridge of that pseudo grille is. Its a raised bumpy edge on the inside with those plastic rivets.
I drilled the rivets out, and resealed them with epoxy, so they were more flush, instead of melted plastic. Cut the inner most plastic section out, where it could possibly have contacted the rubber, as well as moved the woofers down, and forward more so its not contacting the speaker at all.
The adapters i got are similar to this..
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/4x6-t...mZ360075736781
the woofers are in, but i haven't found a way to mount the tweeters yet. I had the last ones siliconed in, but i don't want to do that again... i have an idea, but i still gotta play with the "how" part.
and ryan, the new xovers have push down screw terminals. (a hole where you put the wire, then the screw comes down to hold it in place) is there any kind of wire adapter that works best for those, or just use bare leads? I was having a hard time getting them to stay in place....
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08-02-2008, 09:43 AM
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#33
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03 Subaru WRX
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Bath, Maine
Posts: 327
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can't wait to see it. I'm looking into the same thing myself. My dad has a audio shop, he's gonna help me with this.
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08-02-2008, 11:28 AM
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#34
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Master of my Domain
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Toledo, Ohio
Posts: 4,072
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They have some straight plugs that should work.
Dont you work at rat shack?
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-Ryan
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08-02-2008, 11:31 AM
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#35
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Gone
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lockport Ny
Posts: 19,244
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i do. i just never saw, or used these kind of plugs... so i wasn't sure which type to use...
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08-02-2008, 11:34 AM
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#36
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GX Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Bellmore, NY
Posts: 160
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why cant you just cut the metal on the door panel like i had to do with my kenwoods
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08-02-2008, 11:42 AM
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#37
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Gone
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lockport Ny
Posts: 19,244
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thats what i did... but i wanted to see if there were any other options...
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08-02-2008, 01:29 PM
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#38
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I drive a JEEP!
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Salisbury, Maryland
Posts: 6,388
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JOEY GLADSTONE
why cant you just cut the metal on the door panel like i had to do with my kenwoods
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cherrington17
thats what i did... but i wanted to see if there were any other options...
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Owned by not reading.... . Cherry did you end up taking all that metal out to get them to work, and why not re-silicon the tweeters in just from the inside of it. Oh....where are the pics?
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08-03-2008, 09:25 AM
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#39
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Gone
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lockport Ny
Posts: 19,244
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i didn't take any pics... cuz the work is uugglllyyy. luckily the door/adapter plates hide it. Not half assed, just not "quality" either.
and the new tweeters aren't just solid, they can swivel. so i think i need to dremel out the sails a bit more and make a pseudo mounting plate for them to sit on, then have the sail fit over that... so i can still reach in and adjust the angle of the tweeter from the front of the sail. (also help with direction of the tweet... so ryan doesn't get angry again)
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