Stalling... HELP!

Rouseman · 11-13-2010, 02:08 PM

Alright so i took off my upper intake because one of my injectors was showing an open circuit. i put everything back and all hell broke loose. The car, upon me trying to start it idles rough for about 2 seconds, then it starts to rev up and up until it stalls out. And when it stalls out there is a long high whistle. i immediately assumed vacuum leak. i checked ALL the hoses and made sure the intake manifold wasn't loose. i have no idea whats going on but iam hoping someone here does

Lowpros24 · 11-13-2010, 04:46 PM

not a vacuum leak, that long whilstle is your intake sucking in air.
when you took off upper manifold, did you disconnect the wires and the coil pack, or moved them aside? if disconnected, make sure you have the right firing order. thats alone will cause all the problems your having.

Here is the diagram if that's the case, double check!!!
coil pack
5,2 3,6 4,1
back of motor
1, 3, 5
front of motor
2, 4, 6

Rouseman · 11-13-2010, 07:34 PM

its defiantly not the wires. and its backfireing now. iam mad confused

03Sleepr · 11-13-2010, 07:44 PM

check the coil housing for cracks, that would cause backfiring

as for the rough idle, rev, and stalling it really sounds like vac leak..if thats not the case then injectors maybe?
try running seafoam

Lowpros24 · 11-13-2010, 08:39 PM

Might be fuel related then most likely. If its stalling like you said.
car wont stay running without getting gas.
I was hoping it was wires, cause if you have enough
misfiring, that will cause it to stall out as well the rough idling.
but if only like 2 were misfiring you would just have the rough idle really bad
I have had vacuum leaks before, yes it will cause the idle to go haywire
but i dont thinks its enough to stall out. hasnt happend to me so i may be wrong.
Was hoping you could save the money if it were the wires, sry man
good luck

(03sleeper)
check the coil housing for cracks, that would cause backfiring
^^agree

clutch1 · 11-13-2010, 10:10 PM

Well, smoke the manifold, that's the only only only way to be 100% sure about not having a vacuum leak. However, hold it at like.. 3000rpm, if STILL runs like crap at 3000 it's not a vac leak.

Then check fuel pressure quick.. 40 psi or so.

Did you forget to plug anything In?????? Sound like how a car would run if the MAF was backwards or unplugged... check the MAP, too. Sounds suspicious.

Vella's Alero · 11-14-2010, 01:17 AM

IAC valve not connected?

[ion] C2 · 11-14-2010, 02:23 AM

Definitely a vacuum leak. Or your troublesome injector went static open now. Or a combination of both.

hotrodwolf · 11-14-2010, 08:42 AM

The 3400 should run 59 psi. If its at 40 psi, it wouldn't open the injectors, as far as i know.

clutch1 · 11-14-2010, 01:03 PM

Lol the injectors are electric.. this isn't a poppet injector system.

59 seems high, but I haven't ever actually looked it up, so yeh.

03Sleepr · 11-14-2010, 01:17 PM

Fuel pressure should be 45 psi in the ON position and around 36 at idle

Lowpros24 · 11-14-2010, 01:39 PM

yea, its in the 40's when i changed my fuel line out and checked the pressure i was getting around 40 to 45 psi and that was with the key being in the on position.

Rouseman · 11-14-2010, 05:46 PM

well i think i found the problem. There are cracks running from the upper all the way down to the lower manifold by almost all the screws. Probably the vaccume leak huh? Looks like its off the the junk yard.

03Sleepr · 11-14-2010, 06:38 PM

I'd say thats it, while your replacing it why not just buy a ported set from Wot-tech?

Rouseman · 11-14-2010, 06:46 PM

i was thinking about it but i mean what are the gains? anybody have some solid numbers?

03Sleepr · 11-14-2010, 07:30 PM

I don't have one..but people post some pretty good things in the review section. and it would save money to do it now if you plan on doing it at all

hotrodwolf · 11-14-2010, 08:17 PM

Well, I just went into the SH*T ass Wisconsin weather to throw my pressure tester on my car. 59 PSI at Prime, 52 PSI running. So what i SHOULD have done first to not submit myself to the cold is checked my Haynes. 3.4 engines in 1997-1999 run 41 running, 47 at prime. 2000 and later run 52-59. So the real question is what year the car is.

clutch1 · 11-14-2010, 10:34 PM

Lol feel your pain ^^^ snow today, gross.

Rouseman... did you torque the bolts in the proper order? Don't wanna crack a new one when you get it.

Sounds like it's the problem, yes. Smoke it to be 100% sure if you'd like.

Rouseman · 11-15-2010, 07:34 PM

yea i was very careful to torque to spec i even got a wrench that does foot and inch pounds so i could be sure.

clutch1 · 11-16-2010, 01:15 PM

Dang, must've just gotten unlucky!