Come on guys... don't make me read the manual...

[Mach1]

Originally Posted by XanderWiFi

Why you asking us if you're going to have a mechanic do it? Confused...

He'll be doing a brake job soon and while the car is with him, I'll ask him to look into the hesitation problem. But for now I might as well ask you guys for some help. I might be able to fix it before he gets the car. Also, I haven't posted on this site in like 6 months. I can't let you guys forget about me lol.

[Philbar71]

Originally Posted by Mach1

K so must check...

- catalytic conv.
- fuel pressure (and filter)

Truthfully it'll be my mechanic buddy who'll be checking that lol.

If i don't lightly (and I mean very lightly) tap the gas pedal right as the motor fires up, it starts out all wonky like. If I don't tap it right as the motor fires, the car usually starts up at around 700 rpm and then "revs" itself to 1500 and slowly goes back down. And I f#cking hate when this happens, especially when the motor is dead cold and its winter in michigan. I know the block aint gonna crack from 1500 rpm, but it just effin bothers me lol.

I know... it's weird...

For this, check your Throttle Position Sensor and Idle Air Control Valve.

[Stickybuddz420]

As Phil said you could check your TPS and IACV, but my friends car does the same thing and all the mechs. he went to said that its just the car warming itself up slightly before take off. As you should NOT let the car warm before driving and to just drive it gently when you cold start. Now I'm not sure as to exactly where this info came from but I have tried this quite a few times and I have noticed the car warms quicker, and it doesn't take nearly the gas to get it warm compared to letting it sit and idle warm. Hopefully you can get the problem solved and save some money before the mech takes it in. But I think you should re-read the whole post and give the easier things a shot as it may just solve the problem before she becomes a money pit.

EDIT: My Friend i was referring to drives a 2000 2.4L ( Just for reference )

[Lucalare]

If you start a car and drive away without letting it warm up in winter, your oil will be too thick, so your engine won't be happy, and your tranny fluid will be even thicker, so your tranny really won't be happy. If it's above about -20 5 minutes is plenty to get them warmed up enough, but don't expect heat till you've driven a minute or two after that.

edit: not sure about a manual, maybe you'd be safe on the tranny end, but I doubt it.

[Stickybuddz420]

Yeah Luca that's why I said take it easy while driving to warm it up, If you don't then you can easily sever a seal/ring in many areas that you really don't want to have to replace, yeah here in Battle Creek we don't often see -20 so its not a huge factor to let the car warm unless your a sissy or have the money to waste gas. And I think with a manual transmission it would be just slightly less worry of failure because the only thing REALLY different is you control the clutch, But all the other parts are always susceptible to failure in any transmission. All tho I have never repaired/serviced a transmission besides speed sensors, this is my knowledge of cold starting a vehicle.

[zzyzzx]

Check for vacuum leaks and clean the Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF).

[Lucalare]

You rarely see -20...lucky, up here in ND from mid Jan through the beginning of March it is pretty consistently below -20 degrees.

[Mach1]

Originally Posted by zzyzzx

Check for vacuum leaks and clean the Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF).

I literally just cleaned the entire air box, and I took some q-tips and cleaned what i would describe as a "tar-ish" build up on most of the inside of the MAF. I also saw this build up on the bottom half of the air box. I am assuming that I oiled my k&n filter too heavily, and that some of the oil awas sucked through and coated the MAF. Cleaning these parts seemed to help the throttle response of the car. Now I just need to pinpoint the problem causing the hesitation. I'm going to take a good guess that it is something involving fuel delivery.

[Mach1]

So I took out the #2 spark plug and cleaned it (with a light-duty metal brush), and then I thought that I might as well check the boot. I check the inside and it seemed a bit dirty (?), so i cleaned it with a q-tip and some alcohol. I applied new dielectric grease, hooked it back it, started the car, and...

Nothing!

I don't know if it was the boot or whatever, but there is no hesitation anymore under heavy throttle.

I don't know if I should feel stupid or happy lol.

[Ttop191]

wait you...filled the boot with dielectric grease??? you realize dielectric prevents electricity right?

[alero_bmxer]

Originally Posted by Ttop191

wait you...filled the boot with dielectric grease??? you realize dielectric prevents electricity right?

im almost positive its supposed to keep water and corrosion out

[robalero]

your right alero_bmxer, its something that should always be done and even comes in kits when you buy spark plugs to do on your wires.... ( or boots )

[Ttop191]

hahaha, you guys need to read up

http://whatis.techtarget.com/definit...211945,00.html

[clutch1]

You put dielectric grease in plug boots no matter what. Anyone who works on cars knows that, any reputable shop does that, period. It's not meant to make it conduct better, it's meant to keep junk out.

[Mach1]

Ya, even the service manual reminds you to apply it to the insides of the boot. I swear dood.