Oil light indicator

Twiz · 08-24-2011, 03:52 PM

So I'm up for a new oil change on my Alero '99 2.4, well about 1,000 miles short from 3,000 but the "Change oil" light is already on. I've used Mobil 1 5W-30 and Penzoil 5W-30 in the past, not the fully synthetic, my car has 117K miles so fully synthetic is not an option. Is there an oil which is supposedly better than the ones I've used already? The only oil that I haven't used yet is Motul because is hard to find. What's up with the oil pressure sender? I checked the oil level and everything is okay yet the oil light comes on at idle sometimes. Does the oil pressure sender need replacement? Does the oil need something added to it to make it thicker? Thanks for your input.

Redog · 08-24-2011, 04:52 PM

Change oil light, comes on when it comes on. Reset it. I never rest mine when I change the oil.

The oil light, The red one? OK if that's comming on, why do you think it's the oil sending unit? The light comes on when the oil pressure falls below 5 psi. It doesn't mean that you are low on oil either, it means the oil is not being pushed though the engine, therefore not lubing anything

Twiz · 08-24-2011, 05:17 PM

Yes the issue was about the red oil light that comes on at idle when stopped, engine running for at least half an hour, engine temp. normal a little bit over half. Could the oil pressure sender accumulated dirt or something that's blocking its hole and set off the low pressure oil light? What can I do to prevent this light to come on again?

Redog · 08-24-2011, 06:39 PM

Doubt it, if there was dirt blocking it, it would be on all the time.

Sounds like your pump isn't working

Twiz · 08-24-2011, 08:38 PM

I'll check the oil pressure with a mechanical gauge mounted where the oil pressure sender used to be. The oil pump has nothing but gears and a spring, I can't believe the oil pump is at fault, I'd blame the oil sensor before the pump. The car is not leaking any kind of fluid and there's no sign of a blown head gasket. I'm gonna do a compression test also, I'll let you know what's what when I'm done.

Redog · 08-24-2011, 08:44 PM

You removed the oil sending unit and are driving around without it?

Twiz · 08-24-2011, 09:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Redog

You removed the oil sending unit and are driving around without it?

No sir! I will remove it and drive around with a gauge connected to where the oil sensor used to be that tells me in realtime what the oil pressure is. And if you don't mind I'm just gonna stop explaining myself now I don't seem to get any help I was hoping to get from this forum.

jlong · 08-24-2011, 09:51 PM

Check this out.
http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=2&t=321086&a=2
Didn't read the whole thing but if you have the same engine it should help.

Here is a real nice video on adding a oil pressure gauge on the 2.2
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XhRM0AIhHfs

Redog · 08-24-2011, 10:33 PM

You got to t it, you can't just replace it

$4 in hardware from Home Depot

Twiz · 08-24-2011, 11:47 PM

Okay I changed the oil and filter and everything seems alright now. Been driving the car around for about 45 min. and the red oil light never popped up even at idle. I'm sorry Redog if I was rude to you sir and I apologize, just call me frustrated. I suspect the previous oil filter was very poorly made and it was restricting the oil flow throwing off the oil sender reading. I used the usual Mobil 1 5W-30 oil and filter combination known to work for this car. The previous FRAM oil filter was garbage.

SIUlero · 08-25-2011, 12:06 AM

For the record, all Mobil 1 is fully synthetic. If it's the non-synthetic kind you're using (or synthetic blend), it's just Mobil (without the 1). I only mention this because you said you aren't using synthetic in the first post, and it was messing with my OCD. Also, Fram filters suck. I use AC Delco and Valvoline oil myself.

Twiz · 08-25-2011, 12:15 AM

I have no idea who changed the oil along with the oil filter but it wasn't me.

You're right... the Mobil 5000 does not say Mobil1 on it.

a.graham52 · 08-25-2011, 07:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Redog

You got to t it, you can't just replace it

$4 in hardware from Home Depot

why would you have to t it? i never did it when i checked the oil pressure when i had this issue with my old 2.4

zzyzzx · 08-25-2011, 09:30 AM

my car has 117K miles so fully synthetic is not an option.

I do not understand this statement.

jlong · 08-25-2011, 02:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zzyzzx

my car has 117K miles so fully synthetic is not an option.

I do not understand this statement.

I think it's a myth that has been going around forever. What I have heard is that older engines that have never used synthetic get deposits and those deposits plug leaky seals. Then if you use a fully synthetic oil it will clean the deposits and cause a leak. I have over 100k on 2 vehicles and always use royal purple or Mobil1 extended performance with no leaks.

a.graham52 · 08-25-2011, 03:08 PM

i think the big thing is SWITCHING from non to fully synthetic in higher millage engines is waht wat everyones worried about

jlong · 08-25-2011, 03:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by a.graham52

i think the big thing is SWITCHING from non to fully synthetic in higher millage engines is waht wat everyones worried about

Myth: Mobil 1 will leak out of the seals of older cars.
Reality: Mobil 1 does not cause leaks. In fact, new Mobil 1 was tested in dozens of industry standard and original equipment manufacturers (OEMs) tests to prove its seal performance. It is fully compatible with the elastomeric materials from which all automotive seals and gaskets are made. If an older engine is in good condition and does not have oil leaks, Mobil 1 provides the same advantages as when used in a new engine. ExxonMobil recommends taking measures to repair the leaks, then using Mobil 1. ExxonMobil also recommends following the automobile manufacturer's manual for the proper oil to use.

http://www.mobiloil.com/usa-english/...ics/myths.aspx

mmorello82 · 09-27-2011, 09:12 AM

Just to think about... I bought my alero at 90,000 and immediately started using synthetic oil (castrol 5w-30 Edge) and a Wix filter from Napa. I did notice after a few oil changes that I see just a slight wetness on the oil pan near the rear main seal in my 3400. No drips and not enough to worry about. Synthetic oil is much cleaner, so therefor it could clean conventional oil deposits. But if this is all it does, then go with it! It made my 3400 go up to 31mpg! As far as filters, Wix, is there anything else? NEVER, and I mean NEVER use a Fram. Unless you can afford engine replacement!