Quote:
Originally posted by FormulaNERD@Apr 29 2006, 06:36 AM
ok, well right now there is a 00g power running to the trunk on the driver side, and ground at the seat belt bolt.
you recommend running the three 5v(fr/rr/sub) preouts on the pass side for a cleaner signal? then use a distro block to split the 00 and ground to 2 2g or 4g wires? that sound good?
now i just need to find an affordable 4ch amp that puts out 150X4rms at 4 ohms. lol. that's gonna be difficult (if its afordable)
what about biamping? how exactly does that work, if the speakers are set for 3 ohms, and you're putting out 4 ohms, how do you get it to 3? i think i read something about taking out the passive crossover for the tweeters to increase impedance, but i dont know if that sounds right.
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Yeah, run the 3 RCAs down under the passenger side (I'd loom and zip tie them just to make it cleaner and easier to route). Distro to split the power/ground to the amps - you can use either 2 or 4, it's up to you. I'm running 4 everywhere right now, with about 2,000w RMS and haven't had any problems, but am probably going to upgrade to 0/1 -> 2.
The 150x4@4 is going to be fun.
I'll keep my eyes open, can't think of anything off the top of my head though (Cadence ZRS-4 might, it's somewhere around 125x4@4 I think)
Biamping is a whole kettle of fish that you could have all sorts of fun with - running them off of a solid 4 channel and their passive crossovers would probably be your best bet for right now. If you did not use the passive crossovers you'd be running active, and that yet again is an even hairer set of pit hair which would leave you looking for a better head unit, and quite honestly, unless you're doing a DIY stage, the component set manufacturers know where their drivers need to be crossed over and a lot of time and money is put into R&D on the crossovers.
- Sub wiring looks a-ok
~vR