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Old 09-02-2009, 10:14 AM   #21
misslindseysue
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CactusWill View Post
Not necessarily, when the clutch or pressure plate/flywheel assembly is warped, you can get similar symptoms.

Doesn't make rev-matching bad advice.
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Old 09-02-2009, 07:39 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by misslindseysue View Post
Doesn't make rev-matching bad advice.


sure doesnt... i've actually tried a few times to speed shift... its a slow process lol
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Old 09-02-2009, 10:42 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by colonel6632 View Post
well i'll do a flush and see if that helps. i know this winter after my engine was replaced the clutch stopped working at -40. the clutch went down but nothing happened... bled the clutch and it's been working since...

and i appreciate all the help i'm receiving in the thread. thanks guys!
Sounds like moisture in the fluid to me, that cold, its freezing in the secondary, oil on top of water so the water sits at the lowest point in the secondary.

Quote:
Originally Posted by misslindseysue View Post
Problems getting into gear and grinding is the syncros, not the clutch. That's a much bigger job - make sure you try to rev-match as much as possible so that they don't have to work as hard to slow down/speed up the engine when you cram it in gear.

I'm not insisting its not the trans, but a basicly stock Ecotec unless BEAT on constantly, will rarely distroy a trans.
(Quoted)
http://www.clutchwizard.com/diagnosis.htm

Clutch Release Problems:

Clutch release problems are common. Even though the clutch pedal is depressed, you have trouble shifting. In some cases it is impossible to get the transmission into gear. Sometimes there is an accompanying sound of grinding gears! When these symptoms occur, they are most often the result of the clutch not fully disengaging. The transmission input shaft is not allowed to come to a stop. Engine revolutions are still being transmitted to the transmission. Sources for this problem vary according to the type of clutch mechanism your vehicle has.

Hydraulically Operated Clutch:

Clutch master cylinder leaking or bypassing pressure, slave cylinder leaking, clutch flex hose leaking, pedal bushings worn or missing, or a cracked firewall can reduce the system’s ability to disengage the clutch. Rule of thumb: If the clutch master cylinder is bad, replace both master and slave cylinders as a pair. This will save you future heartache.

Internal clutch Release Problems:

Not all release problems are caused by the release mechanism. Things can go wrong inside the clutch as well. A loose damper spring in the clutch disc, bent disc, frozen pilot bearing, collapsed release bearing, or metal shrapnel from a broken cover can cause the clutch to bind and not fully release when the pedal is depressed. The release fork might bend. The pivot ball can wear or break. There are many reasons for a clutch to hang up.
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Last edited by Blktrax : 09-02-2009 at 10:46 PM.
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Old 09-02-2009, 11:24 PM   #24
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well as soon as i get paid i'll try bleeding the clutch again. i'll just use dot 3... or is there anything better to use
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Old 09-03-2009, 12:35 AM   #25
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you could always take it into a transmission shop and have them look at it, but if you don't want to I can't blame you. I'd sooner work on my car myself than pay an arm and a leg to let someone else do it.
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Old 09-03-2009, 01:10 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blktrax View Post
Clutch Release Problems:

Clutch release problems are common. Even though the clutch pedal is depressed, you have trouble shifting. In some cases it is impossible to get the transmission into gear. Sometimes there is an accompanying sound of grinding gears! When these symptoms occur, they are most often the result of the clutch not fully disengaging. The transmission input shaft is not allowed to come to a stop. Engine revolutions are still being transmitted to the transmission. Sources for this problem vary according to the type of clutch mechanism your vehicle has.

Hydraulically Operated Clutch:

Clutch master cylinder leaking or bypassing pressure, slave cylinder leaking, clutch flex hose leaking, pedal bushings worn or missing, or a cracked firewall can reduce the system’s ability to disengage the clutch. Rule of thumb: If the clutch master cylinder is bad, replace both master and slave cylinders as a pair. This will save you future heartache.

Internal clutch Release Problems:

Not all release problems are caused by the release mechanism. Things can go wrong inside the clutch as well. A loose damper spring in the clutch disc, bent disc, frozen pilot bearing, collapsed release bearing, or metal shrapnel from a broken cover can cause the clutch to bind and not fully release when the pedal is depressed. The release fork might bend. The pivot ball can wear or break. There are many reasons for a clutch to hang up.


That was my impression. Once the clutch wears out, its nothing a clutch kit and new flywheel wouldn't fix, and possibly the clutch fork.
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Old 09-03-2009, 03:26 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by colonel6632 View Post
well... the car was acting like this when i bought it 60xxxkm ago. still seems the same. i do have some problems getting my car into first sometimes from a stop and sometimes it grinds a little going into third. transmission problem?

Mine actually has a little bit of a slight "grind" going into 3rd as well. I guess that's a fairly common problem. It only has just under 53,000 miles on it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CactusWill View Post
That was my impression. Once the clutch wears out, its nothing a clutch kit and new flywheel wouldn't fix, and possibly the clutch fork.

No clutch fork on GM FWD transmissions since around '91 as far as I know.
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Old 09-03-2009, 06:08 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by colonel6632 View Post
well as soon as i get paid i'll try bleeding the clutch again. i'll just use dot 3... or is there anything better to use

You can use dot 4 also, 3&4 they intermix, dot 5 is incompatable. Really though, dot 3 is plenty, anything above is exta money spent.
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Old 09-03-2009, 06:21 PM   #29
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I had an issue with moisture in my clutch fluid, in the winter very very cold here, the moisture froze and my clutch stuck at the floor, they tried the slave and clutch assembly first unfortunately and it still did it. They then changed the master cylinder and flushed the system, and all was well, the fluid was very dirty and had lots of moisture. I don't know why an Alero clutch hydraulic system picks up moisture and gets dirty so fast....but I guess its just the way it is. 1600 bux later I have a new clutch system.
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Old 09-03-2009, 10:16 PM   #30
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lol. so just bleed it lots. will do. thanks guys!
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power window conversion, heated leather seats, 16" rims, high & low hids, auto dimming rear mirror, speedbuilt front and rear sway bars, poly bushings all around.

2005 Silverado 2500HD w/ 6.0l Vortec 4L80E
Tuned 6.0l, exhaust, intake, with 450000km on the odometer. Tow Rig

1985 Pontiac Trans Am GTA w/ 5.7 Vortec 700r4
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