Weak Brakes

cherrington17 · 12-12-2007, 10:04 AM

I know its not the hardware.... i just changed my rotors/pads about 2.5 years ago. (only like 10k miles) so they are still great condition.

but what would cause my brake distance to increase? i was going like 60 today and when i noticed i wasn't gonna make the light, i broke like usual, and noticed it wasn't slowing down a hell of alot. (roads were a little wet, but nothing slide worthy) my usual brake distance was like half what it was today, which makes me worry some. I know some is attributed to bad judgement. pharmacology exams shouldn't be allowed at 8am.

i DID just get winter tires.. but that shouldn't matter.

I have had time to check my brake fluid, but i haven't noticed any leaking, so that should be fine too.

I'm only at like 54k miles, could my drums/shoes be dead already? and if not, how would i go about tightening up my brakes, making my pedal a little more responsive?

AGT · 12-12-2007, 10:33 AM

So there is a lot of play in the pedal?

jackal2000 · 12-12-2007, 10:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cherrington17

I know its not the hardware.... i just changed my rotors/pads about 2.5 years ago. (only like 10k miles) so they are still great condition.

but what would cause my brake distance to increase? i was going like 60 today and when i noticed i wasn't gonna make the light, i broke like usual, and noticed it wasn't slowing down a hell of alot. (roads were a little wet, but nothing slide worthy) my usual brake distance was like half what it was today, which makes me worry some. I know some is attributed to bad judgement. pharmacology exams shouldn't be allowed at 8am.

i DID just get winter tires.. but that shouldn't matter.

I have had time to check my brake fluid, but i haven't noticed any leaking, so that should be fine too.

I'm only at like 54k miles, could my drums/shoes be dead already? and if not, how would i go about tightening up my brakes, making my pedal a little more responsive?

[english lesson] that's not the proper past tense of brake, should be braked. [/english lesson]

try bleeding the lines maybe?

cherrington17 · 12-12-2007, 10:49 AM

there isn't a tremendous alot of play in the pedal, if i step on it slightly it does brake slightly, but it seems like the whole middle ground of "more pressure = quicker stopping" isn't quite there.

and thanks for the english lesson there....

Mischief007 · 12-12-2007, 10:50 AM

See if you can get the brake fluid tested. Brake fluid is usually only good for 5 years before needing replacement. My dealer tested mine and it is starting to weaken so a brake flush and replace is in order for my car.

Gr1m · 12-12-2007, 10:59 AM

well if you havent flushed/bled your brake fluid now might be a good time to do it

cherrington17 · 12-12-2007, 12:18 PM

well... i know it hasn't been changed since i got it (and probably not before that) and the car is nearly 5 years old. hmm...

how would i go about doing that? or is it better to pay for it, and have it done "right" the first time?

Mischief007 · 12-12-2007, 06:25 PM

I'm going to get the dealer to do mine. $90 isn't a lot for a complete flush and fill.

Gr1m · 12-12-2007, 07:06 PM

yea meineke or a deal will charge you just under $100 for a full flush

bryanska · 12-14-2007, 09:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mischief007

I'm going to get the dealer to do mine. $90 isn't a lot for a complete flush and fill.

And it's worth it. Without a good one-man bleeding kit like the MityVac, bleeding is pretty tedious.

A MityVac will run about $35, so you're almost halfway toward having somone else do it.

However, if you do decide to tackle it, get a GOOD six point flare nut wrench for the bleeder screws. The screws are soft and the hex is easily stripped.

cherrington17 · 12-14-2007, 10:11 PM

^ at that rate, it wouldn't be worth it at all.... i'll look into getting it done over winter break.