01-25-2008, 01:56 PM
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#1
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GL Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Weaverville, NC
Posts: 398
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Proper Torque for Front Hub/Bearing???
 I have heard that a TSB came out changing the torque requirement on the axle nut and bolts that hold the hub on. Does anybody know what those new numbers are? I do know that if you don't get them right that it leads to premature failure of the hub/bearing assembly.  Thanks.
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01-25-2008, 05:39 PM
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#2
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GX Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Toronto
Posts: 34
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Dont know if this is going to help, but ill just put up the instructions of how the remove and install the wheel/hub assembly. Hopefully they're different torque specs than the ones you have! Good luck!
Removal & Installation
Front
To Remove:
Raise and safely support the vehicle.
NOTE:The front wheel bearings are not serviced separately. If the front wheel bearings are defective, the hub and bearing assembly must be replaced.
Lubricate the threads on the halfshaft with clean engine oil.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Front wheels
Halfshaft hub nut
Caliper from the steering knuckle
Brake rotor
Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) sensor from the backing plate
Hub and bearing assembly from the backing plate
Hub and bearing assembly from the halfshaft
Hub and bearing assembly
To Install:
Install or connect the following:
Hub and bearing assembly onto the halfshaft
Hub and bearing assembly to the backing plate. Tighten the 3 bolts alternately and evenly to 70 ft lbs (95 Nm).
ABS sensor
Brake rotor
Caliper on the steering knuckle.
Halfshaft nut. Tighten it to 284 ft lbs (385 Nm) if the nut is black or 173 ft lbs (235 Nm) if the nut is gray.
Front wheel. Tighten the nuts to 100 ft lbs (140 Nm).
Lower the vehicle.
Rear With Disc Brakes
To Remove:
Raise and support the vehicle.
Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
Remove the brake rotor.
Disconnect the parking brake cable from the parking brake lever.
Disconnect the wheel speed sensor harness.
Remove the wheel hub assembly mounting bolts.
Remove the wheel hub assembly from the knuckle.
Remove the mounting bolts from the rear of the wheel hub assembly.
Remove the wheel hub assembly from the backing plate.
To Install:
Install the wheel hub assembly to the backing plate.
Install the mounting bolts to the rear of the wheel hub assembly.
Tighten the bolts to 89 in lb (10 Nm).
Install the wheel hub assembly to the knuckle.
Tighten the bolts to 70 ft lb (95 Nm).
Connect the wheel speed sensor harness.
Connect the parking brake cable to the parking brake lever.
Install the brake rotor.
Install the tire and wheel assembly.
Lower the vehicle.
With Drum Brakes
To Remove:
Raise and support the vehicle.
Remove the tire and wheel assemblies.
Remove the brake drum.
Disconnect the rear ABS wheel speed sensor wire connector.
Remove the bolts from the wheel bearing/hub assembly.
Remove the hub and bearing assembly from the vehicle.
To Install:
Install the wheel bearing and hub assembly on the steering knuckle.
Tighten the bolts to 62 ft lb (85 Nm).
Connect the rear ABS wheel speed sensor wire connector.
Install the brake drum.
Install the tire and wheel assembly.
Lower the vehicle.
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01-25-2008, 07:27 PM
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#3
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GL Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Weaverville, NC
Posts: 398
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Thanks! 
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03-15-2008, 08:49 AM
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#4
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Master of my Domain
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Toledo, Ohio
Posts: 4,072
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Also note for the Axle nut you can use an 1 3/8" Deep Well socket or a 35mm Deep Well socket.
I used the 35 mm.
__________________
-Ryan
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05-06-2008, 11:03 AM
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#5
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GX Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 19
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what about gx?
i have a 2004 gx with NO ANTI LOCK BRAKES will it be the same set up as the instructions you have given?
__________________
2.2 Ecotec
4 door gx
plain and simple STOCK EVERYTHING
except for a air freshener
saving money like everyone else for future
mods
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05-06-2008, 11:16 AM
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#6
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GL Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Crofton, MD
Posts: 839
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vikz99
Tighten it to 284 ft lbs (385 Nm) if the nut is black or 173 ft lbs (235 Nm) if the nut is gray.
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Note that this involves a redesigned hub nut. The old style nut, which had a sheetmetal shield around the nut, was torqued to 284 ft lbs. The new style nut does not have the sheetmetal shield around it and torques to 173 ft lbs. Not sure how relevant the color is. I think it may be more about whether or not you have the shield around the nut.
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05-06-2008, 12:06 PM
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#7
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Master of my Domain
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Toledo, Ohio
Posts: 4,072
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Thanks for that piece of knowledge.
I have the old nuts...
I will be stopping by the dealer today to get the updated ones, if I can afford them.
__________________
-Ryan
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05-06-2008, 12:08 PM
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#8
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I drive a JEEP!
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Salisbury, Maryland
Posts: 6,388
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My nuts are pretty old now....LOL!
__________________
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05-06-2008, 02:30 PM
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#9
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GL Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Crofton, MD
Posts: 839
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AAP has them listed at $3.99 ea., and the picture appears to be the new style, but take that for what it's worth
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05-06-2008, 06:11 PM
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#10
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Master of my Domain
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Toledo, Ohio
Posts: 4,072
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WTH is AAP?
Advance Auto Parts?
__________________
-Ryan
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05-06-2008, 06:14 PM
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#11
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Aleromod's most pointless thread starter
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Jersey (north and south are 2 diff. states)
Posts: 2,349
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im pretty sure he is talking about advance auto parts
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by adam337
whats with all the useless threads lately?..
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New project 1992 460 big block ford notchback mustang
Goal - Mid 11s all motor.
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05-06-2008, 06:55 PM
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#12
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GL Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Crofton, MD
Posts: 839
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yeah...advance auto parts
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