My amp is trippin, grr.

clutch1 · 07-02-2008, 04:56 PM

I just got a candence txa1000d used, however it was just refurbed by the factory before I bought it, and supposedly it worked 100%.

I put it in my car on 1 Type R wired to 2 ohms.
It plays for like 10 seconds, goes into protect, plays a bit, protect, so on and so forth.

I disconnected everything except the power ground and remote and its still in protect.. what the hell is going on here??

AGT · 07-02-2008, 05:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by clutch1

I just got a candence txa1000d used, however it was just refurbed by the factory before I bought it, and supposedly it worked 100%.

I put it in my car on 1 Type R wired to 2 ohms.
It plays for like 10 seconds, goes into protect, plays a bit, protect, so on and so forth.

I disconnected everything except the power ground and remote and its still in protect.. what the hell is going on here??

internal contacts are messed up. I used to have an amp that did this. They tried fixing it but it was easier to replace it with the new model.

Midgear · 07-02-2008, 08:56 PM

check the power wire to make sure its not cut / touching anything (wire touching metal)

check the ground wire, make sure its against a smooth, un painted, bare metal surface

check the wires going to the subwoofer, make sure the positive and negative arent touching

check the subwoofer itself, make sure your connections arent frizzed out and/or touching

check your trunk for a large blunt object, and let the destruction begin

or.. go back to the place you got it and see if they can't figure out the problem?

Ryan from Ohio · 07-03-2008, 12:14 PM

With no speaker on it and the problem still happening something isnt right.

Send it in for repair.

JOEY GLADSTONE · 07-03-2008, 12:53 PM

yep your amp is clipping, probably cracked the board on the amp send it in for repair

FrankTheTank · 07-03-2008, 01:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Midgear

check the ground wire, make sure its against a smooth, un painted, bare metal surface

x2
i had an amp that was doing exactly what clutch's is doing, and it ended up being a bad ground, so its definitely worth looking into before you send it in.

Midgear · 07-03-2008, 04:59 PM

the ground thing has happened to me twice- hope he reads these posts before he sends it in lol

clutch1 · 07-03-2008, 11:03 PM

Read it, tried it, nada.

The guy I bought it from gave me the name/ number of the guy from Cadence who previously worked on it, hopefully he can shed light.

Midgear · 07-03-2008, 11:06 PM

is that a local area / store? sucks if you have to send it off for repairs-

clutch1 · 07-04-2008, 01:57 AM

No, I bought it off a guy online, but he's a pretty big member on caraudio.com, and has references.

He's responded to all my PMs and stuff, so I believe it really IS supposed to work right

lonnie · 07-04-2008, 10:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by clutch1

No, I bought it off a guy online, but he's a pretty big member on caraudio.com, and has references.

He's responded to all my PMs and stuff, so I believe it really IS supposed to work right

My question is:
Are you running a dual voice coil Type R, and is it DVC 4ohm or DVC 2ohm?

If it is a DVC 2ohm you might want to make sure that it is indeed wired correctly, you may have it wired to 1ohm. In which case you amp would go into protection cause of the input overload protection they put in there. Try taking the sub off alltogether and run the amp and see if it goes into protection. If not then the problem may be the sub.

These amps go into protection for the following reasons:
1. Speaker Short
2. Input overload
3. Thermal overload
4. Reverse Polarity

If the amp is good like you say then one or more of these conditions exist.

toddbobby · 07-04-2008, 10:38 PM

I have the same amp and it is good to 1ohm

clutch1 · 07-05-2008, 03:46 AM

Checked the power/ground w/ a DMM today, 12.5 V with the car off. So that's ok.

The speaker is a DVC4, and like toddbobby said, the amp IS stable at 1 ohm, which is one reason I wanted it, that's what I plan on running it at.

It doesn't seem to go into protect with the speaker disconnected, but I connected BOTH of my Type Rs to it seperately and they both make it trip out, so it's not the sub unless both have a shorting issue, which I think it unlikely.

Quote:

These subs go into protection for the following reasons:
1. Speaker Short
2. Input overload
3. Thermal overload
4. Reverse Polarity

wanna explain more thoroughly??

lonnie · 07-05-2008, 11:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by clutch1

Checked the power/ground w/ a DMM today, 12.5 V with the car off. So that's ok.

The speaker is a DVC4, and like toddbobby said, the amp IS stable at 1 ohm, which is one reason I wanted it, that's what I plan on running it at.

It doesn't seem to go into protect with the speaker disconnected, but I connected BOTH of my Type Rs to it seperately and they both make it trip out, so it's not the sub unless both have a shorting issue, which I think it unlikely.

wanna explain more thoroughly??

1 Speaker Short Circuit - This is when you speakers short circuit due to voice coil burn out, or should the amplifier se an impedance to low to handle, the protection LED will ligt, indicating a diagnostic condition. Turn off your system, disconnect one speaker at a time and try to determine which speaker might be faulty. Correct the condition and restart the amp. You must reset the amplifier by turning it off and then on again by the remote power connection.

2 Input overload - This will either shutdown the amplifier completely or make the amp spurt on and off indicating that it is in a diagnostic condition. Turn the system off and reduce the gain on the amplifier or the volume from your head unit this should result in a corrected condition. In other words hook everything back up, and trun down all levels and slowly start to turn them up until you reach a comfortable level or the amp goes back into a diagnostic condition then adjust accordingly.

3. Thermal overload - Simply put when the amp reaches 80 degress celsius the amplifier will turn off. Once it cools back down simply rest the amp by its remote connection and the amp will come back on.

4. Reverse polarity - Putting the negative to the positive side and the positive to the negative side will cause the amp to shutdown, and my cause damage to the amp.

These amps also have a DC offset protection, and should any DC voltage try to enter the amplifier via the speaker terminals it will cause the amplifier to shut down and not operate until this condition is remedied. It will also protect damaging high DC voltages from reaching your speakers should you amp ever malfunction.

The amp could be underpowered..I would adjust all the gain first by turning them down, and working my way up first using one sub, and see where that gets you.

Hopes this helps!

Ryan from Ohio · 07-06-2008, 05:56 PM

Ok so the problem is only when the speakers are hooked up.

Make sure the amp is stable how you are trying to run it!

Next take a DMM and check each coil on your subs. Each 4 Ohm coil will read about 3.6 Ohm DC. If its 2 Ohm coils about 1.6-1.8 Ohm DC.

Outside of those two things...

If your ground is to long, not using proper sized power/ground, grounded to a poor area...

Failing all that amplifier.

Link to thread an CA.com please. Im on there as well...

clutch1 · 07-06-2008, 06:33 PM

Well I know my ground/power are fine, since I ran a bigger amp on the same ohm load just a couple weeks ago. The sub *should* be fine since the amp was fine with it, but I haven't checked the coils yet.

Also, which thread? The one I bought it from?

Ryan from Ohio · 07-06-2008, 07:22 PM

Sure, unless you have a trouble shoot thread there also.

Ok just looked at the specs. That amp in 1 Ohm stable.

So the possibilities get narrowed down more.

Either your ground is sufficient, the subs coils are gone or the amp is damaged and needs repaired. Thats the bottom line.

clutch1 · 07-07-2008, 02:42 AM

here's where I got it.

http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=324354

gonna call cadence tomorrow, he gave me the phone/ name of the guy that fixed it.

Ryan from Ohio · 07-07-2008, 09:07 AM

Well given the history of the amp...

I would check your subs first then call up Cadence. Its more than likely the amplifier... I mean, its had a lot of work done to it. Maybe he didnt replace all diodes, transistors, etc and maybe another failed.

When you get into something like that your paying mainly for labor, not parts. So its best to replace it all. If 3 are blown how bad or close to failing are the others? Just pointing it out.

lonnie · 07-07-2008, 12:21 PM

Yeah I'm thinking the amp as well, did you try to turn down the gains yet, and try readjusting. Just trying to look at all avenues. I saw the test paper and with that amount of work I would send it back immediately. Blowing that amount of components is crazy, and did I read that right that the fan was replaced? Just seems like there was a short of the power leads originally which caused all the problems! Have you tried different subs as well?