11-17-2008, 08:55 PM
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#1
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GL Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 720
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Burning Oil
Started to notice my Low Oil coming on consistently every two weeks. Thought the plug may have been loose or the filter. Changed them out and while I was in a maintenance-mood, used some Seafoam via the PCV. Left it in for about 15 minutes (lost track of time). Cranked it up and smoke came out the tail, of course, but also from under the hood for only a couple seconds. And I know normally smoke pours out of the tail for a couple minutes but this was conistent thick smoke for up to 20 minutes. Later that day, i noticed there was a dotted line of oil following the crossbeam, not a single spot. I had to drive out of town the next day and the low oil light came on again but it was too late at night to stop anywhere and top it off. Made it to Autozone the next day and stopped topped it off with 3 quarts. No leaks. I guess the motor got so hot the oil that was still in there harden and sealed the leak (only conclusion I could draw).
The problem I'm having now is slight smoke when I hit the gas and very strong burnt oil smell. But I have no power loss. Coolant is ok. Temp. needle never rises above the middle tic mark. I have the DHP PCM so my fans are doing a better job cooling. So what is making the oil get so hot?
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11-17-2008, 09:05 PM
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#2
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Gone
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lockport Ny
Posts: 19,244
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what grade oil are you using? conventional/synthetic and what weight? sw-30/10w-30?
whats your mileage?
i have no idea about whats going on, but those answers might help those who do know...
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11-17-2008, 09:37 PM
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#3
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GLS member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: FL
Posts: 3,723
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Sounds like you've lost a piston ring or valve seal.
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11-17-2008, 09:50 PM
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#4
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GLS member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Roma, TX
Posts: 1,543
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If it were a valve seal, that would explain the smoke. He should try filling the car with thicker oil (if he doesn't already have it) and see how that works out.
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Last edited by Valley olds : 11-17-2008 at 09:51 PM.
Reason: Reread O.P.
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11-17-2008, 10:47 PM
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#5
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GL Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 720
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5-w30
conventional
over 100,000 miles
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11-17-2008, 10:53 PM
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#6
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Aleromod part owner
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Far Northeast Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 18,199
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Are you sure there's no leaks?
Burning 3 quarts in 2 weeks is a hell of a lot
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2000 Olds Alero 3400 SFI 14.53 @ 94.93
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11-17-2008, 11:50 PM
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#7
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GLS member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: FL
Posts: 3,723
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CiscoPath
5-w30
conventional
over 100,000 miles
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Switch to 10W-30, year round.
And when temperatures are consistently warm, like in summertime, use 10W-40.
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11-18-2008, 01:25 AM
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#8
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GL Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 720
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redog
Are you sure there's no leaks?
Burning 3 quarts in 2 weeks is a hell of a lot
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lol..I said after I added the last three quarts, it has stopped leaking. I just have the smoke and the smell now. Low Oil came on again yesterday but I think that's only because a majority of it has been smoked out the tailpipe. I'll try a heavier weight and see how it goes. It'll only be a bandage til I get it in the shop, but it'll do til I can find out why the recommended oil burns
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11-18-2008, 01:36 AM
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#9
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Long Grove, IL
Posts: 5,002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CactusWill
And when temperatures are consistently warm, like in summertime, use 10W-40.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GM
Engine Oil Viscosity
Notice
Using oils of any viscosity other than those recommended could result in engine damage. When choosing an oil, consider the range of temperatures the vehicle will be operated in before the next oil change. Then, select the recommended oil viscosity.
SAE 5W-30 is the only viscosity grade recommended for your vehicle.
Use only oils which have the API Starburst symbol and which are also identified as SAE 5W-30.
If the temperature range is 0°F (-18°C) or above SAE 10W-30 oil which has the API Starbust symbol is acceptable if SAE 5W 30 oils is not available. Areas where the temperature falls below -20°F (-29°C), it is recommended either an SAE 5W-30 synthetic oil or and SAE 0W-30 oil. Both will provide easier cold starting and better protection for the engine at extremely low temperatures. Do not use other viscosity grade oils, such as SAE 10W-40 or SAE 20W-50 under any conditions.
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__________________
Cliff Scott
2004 Alero GX w/sport pkg - Sold, living somewhere in WI now.
2011 Saab 9-5 Turbo4 M6
2004 Corvette Convertible M6
1994 Chevy Beretta - Quad4/M5
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11-18-2008, 11:21 AM
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#10
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Master of my Domain
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Toledo, Ohio
Posts: 4,072
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I use the recommended weight only now. for awhile I was switching back and forth between 5 and 10.
I was consistently loosing oil before I did my LIMG. After that Im good 0 problems ever.
__________________
-Ryan
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11-18-2008, 12:01 PM
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#11
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GLS member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: FL
Posts: 3,723
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cliff8928
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Thanks for the preschool lesson, cliff, but every manufacturer has to cover their own ass by putting in writing some instructions for those of us who have not yet passed automotive kindergarten.
I am aware of some oil filters that cannot handle 10w-40 or thicker oil weights. But this does not apply to any engine in an alero.
I am also aware that oil will 'freeze' or gel at certain temperatures.
10W-30 is just fine for year round applications, unless you live in a super cold area then use 5w-30 during the wintertime.
During summer months you may use 10w-40.
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