01-27-2010, 06:26 PM
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#1
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GX Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: new york
Posts: 21
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aftermarket stearo
i have a easy question so here it is. i installed a jvc KD-R300 cd reciever. Only one issue my factory turned off by itself whrn door is opened. The jvc dosnt my wireing is wrong im sure. I purchased a adpter kit so i never cutt factory wiring; i ran my own speaker wire. now in order for the radio to work i had to wire the red and yellow together im sure this is my issue. now i have yellow to yellow red to red and no luck; but when red to yellow the steroe works. what am i doing wrong? also i have an atomatic car starter that im gonna install myself and online says i need a passlock? is this true. my radio is my first issue i need resolved. any help is thankfull.
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01-27-2010, 06:58 PM
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#2
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GLS member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Grand Forks, ND for school; Langdon, ND home
Posts: 2,632
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first off, why the hell did you run your own speaker wire? could have easily used what was there.
Ok, now if it doesn't work the way its supposed to be but does when red and yellow are together, either the red or yellow on the car side of the harness is bad. It sounds to me like your red is bad tho, seeing that when you hook up the red to the yellow wire it works. get a tester and test it.
__________________
2001½ F150 XLT Crew Cab- true dual glasspacks with x-pipe, AEM intake, SCT X3 with VMP custom tunes, full stereo system, HID 55w heads and 35w fogs, 35% tint front and 20% rear, Lightning tail lights
04 F6 Sno Pro Team edition- MBRP race can, ODS clutch kit
01 YZ125- bored out to 144, PnP cylinder and head, Pro Circuit WORKS suspension, many other mods
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01-27-2010, 09:19 PM
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#3
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GL Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Central WA
Posts: 302
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Red and Yellow wire together do not play well! Please disconnect them from each other before other problems arise. One is for 'all the time' power to keep the radio station memory and such. The other is for 'accessory power' so it will come on when you turn the key. Both of these types of power can be obtained from the passenger side fuse panel as needed using 'Piggyback' fuse holders/adapters - parts places have em. Most common GM adapters will provide only the 'always on' power. Most people tap the 'Sunroof' fuse for the headunit on/off power.
Having the radio stay on until the door is opened and such is a feature controlled by the car body computer. The original wiring relies on the computer to control the on/off of the factory headunit. Only a few really good/expensive wiring adapters have this feature included cause it requires some electronics to talk to the car and control the radio (this usually also restores the sounds for open doors and such).
Applause for doing the speaker wires cause that is a lot of work! Maybe not necessary but hey!
Last edited by widbyj : 01-27-2010 at 09:21 PM.
Reason: Added more words
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01-27-2010, 09:57 PM
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#4
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Gone
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lockport Ny
Posts: 19,244
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wow.. i really hope that was typed from a cell phone.. cuz... damn. your spelling is making my old 2nd grade teacher roll in her grave. (at least... i think she died.  )
running your own speaker wire is a necessity.. if your using an aftermarket amp. Stock speakers and aftermarket HU.. you could have used stock wiring.
and as for the power issue... try the stuff already mentioned.
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01-28-2010, 12:04 AM
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#5
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GLS member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Grand Forks, ND for school; Langdon, ND home
Posts: 2,632
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Quote:
Originally Posted by widbyj
Most common GM adapters will provide only the 'always on' power.
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The ones i have got from crutchfield have both on and acc. I never heard of harnesses having only one, that is totally pointless seeing no matter what car all radio need constant power and switch power.
__________________
2001½ F150 XLT Crew Cab- true dual glasspacks with x-pipe, AEM intake, SCT X3 with VMP custom tunes, full stereo system, HID 55w heads and 35w fogs, 35% tint front and 20% rear, Lightning tail lights
04 F6 Sno Pro Team edition- MBRP race can, ODS clutch kit
01 YZ125- bored out to 144, PnP cylinder and head, Pro Circuit WORKS suspension, many other mods
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01-28-2010, 10:54 AM
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#6
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The Aleromod PITA
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: East Carolina University, GVegas, NC
Posts: 1,852
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cherrington17
wow.. i really hope that was typed from a cell phone.. cuz... damn. your spelling is making my old 2nd grade teacher roll in her grave. (at least... i think she died.  )
running your own speaker wire is a necessity.. if your using an aftermarket amp. Stock speakers and aftermarket HU.. you could have used stock wiring.
and as for the power issue... try the stuff already mentioned.
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lol blackberrys have a better spell check then the site does
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01-28-2010, 10:59 AM
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#7
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GL Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Central WA
Posts: 302
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'Most common' referring to what you might find at a Wal-Mart or similar. Since the factory wiring only has 'always on' power and the OEM headunit is controlled by the BCM cheap adapter cables don't have the switched power feed, this is where the need for an added circuit comes from.
FYI - Crutchfield claims to not have adapters for 2004 Alero
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01-28-2010, 04:07 PM
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#8
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The Aleromod PITA
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: East Carolina University, GVegas, NC
Posts: 1,852
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just take the red wire, buy a fuse tap and use the sunroof fuse on the passenger side
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