Coolant Bleeder Screw

[DeeJayy]

How do i remove the old one if the nut is off from the top? Do I just unscrew it or do I have to do something else? lol. Kinda don't wanna touch it til I work on my car. Ill post a pic of it tomorrow if needed.

[RalphP]

Huh. You mean the bleeder valve is out of it, or that there's a plug there instead?

Pics will be nice.

RwP

[DeeJayy]

This is it, Hence why I have to replace it lol

[RalphP]

Ah.

Dorman #902112 (what I ordered for spares before my Malibu's motor decided to die on me) comes with the OUTER portion also, so you'd just remove it, and replace.

Dunno about the AC Delco part.

RwP

[sleepyalero]

I heard nothing but negative things on dorman parts.

[RalphP]

They've had some really good stuff, some really bad stuff. They also make for GM, Ford, and Chrysler ...

The bleeder screw is rather hard to screw up in manufacture.

Besides, guess who does the "Help!" family of parts.

RwP

[DeeJayy]

Do I just take out this one? Or is there somthing I have to do to take it out lol. (Don't wanna lose my coolant before I replace it).

[RalphP]

Make sure the car is on level ground.

You'll still lose a small bit, but nothing major.

RwP

[DeeJayy]

Originally Posted by RalphP

Make sure the car is on level ground.

You'll still lose a small bit, but nothing major.

RwP

Thanks! A big help!

[RalphP]

Well, consider that, on level ground with the motor cold, you open the bleeder so that air can run to the highest point (the bleeder screw) and vent out ... technically, you should lose maybe 1/4" of everything that's above the manifold it's in.

'Course, now that I say that, you'll have it on enough of a slope it's about 1 gallon down .. *grins* Still, a quick retop with 50/50 premix (or mix your own with distilled water!) and you're good to go.

Or even top off with pure antifreeze - it should NOT push you much past the current mix (if 50/50, maybe 51/49 or even 52/48 ... )

RwP

[DeeJayy]

Well i'll be replacing it tomorrow when i have no coolant in and then once i'm done ill bleed it.

[billytheman1188]

Originally Posted by DeeJayy

Well i'll be replacing it tomorrow when i have no coolant in and then once i'm done ill bleed it.

Do you know how to bleed it properly?

[DeeJayy]

Yeah, turn heater on full blast and put car in normal operating temp and bleed it.

[RalphP]

Originally Posted by DeeJayy

Yeah, turn heater on full blast and put car in normal operating temp and bleed it.

Actually, no.

For the 3.1/3.4, it goes more like:

Refilling


Notice

When adding coolant, it is important that you use GM Goodwrench DEX-COOL™ coolant. If coolant other than DEX-COOL™ is added to the system, the engine coolant will require change sooner: at 50 000 km (30,000 miles) or 24 months.

Close the radiator drain rooster.
If previously removed, install the engine block drain plugs.
When installing the drain plugs, use pipe sealer GM P/N 12346004.

Important

On vehicles equipped with the 3.1L engine, open the coolant air bleed valve. The coolant air bleed valve is located on the top of the thermostat bypass pipe/heater pipe assembly. Close the valve once a continuous stream of coolant is expelled from the valve.

Fill the surge tank to the base of the filler neck.
Start the engine with the pressure cap off. Run the engine until the upper radiator hose starts to get hot.
If the coolant level in the surge tank is low, add the proper mix of coolant until the level reaches the full cold line.

See the highlighted portions.

Do NOT open it when hot! Unless you just want 200F water spraying all over your hand ... and possible other body parts.

RwP

[DeeJayy]

Originally Posted by RalphP

Actually, no.

For the 3.1/3.4, it goes more like:



See the highlighted portions.

Do NOT open it when hot! Unless you just want 200F water spraying all over your hand ... and possible other body parts.

RwP

That's weird lol.. Everybody has told me the other way. I just don't simply turn it all the way where it sprays at me.

[RalphP]

The bleeder screw(s) are at the high point(s) of the cooling system on level ground. All you need to do is to open them up and let the air bleed out while filling the system.

I would HIGHLY recommend the factory method instead. Safer, cleaner, and what's to say there's air there if the system is running at temp?

RwP