Headlight wire harness

[MiLo]

So ive had this problem with my passenger headlight blinking whenever I hit a bump, I figured out that it wasnt the bulb or the socket or even the headlight itself, it was the harness that was loose and a prong wasnt making full contact. So I went to the junk yard and picked up a couple just to make sure at least one works properly. I did notice that the wires are different, one had 2 blue wires 1 pink and 1 orange, the other had 2 orange wires 1 pink and 1 blue. Which one do I use? And is there any difference on the wires to begin with? Now I just need to connect it. What would be the best way? Solder and shrink tubing, or use butt connectors and crimp?

[jawa]

Soldering is always best. As for the wires. Get out a multimeter

[MiLo]

I'm not too familiar with multimeters.. well i know that it measures continuity, volts, current, resistance and a lil more but what exactly would i be measuring? and what am i looking for?

[jawa]

Just measure volts. Google headlight wiring for your cars year. Amd the one u pilled the plug from

[MiLo]

Would i be able to buy any cheap one at say walmart and it have the same results as a more expensive one? I seen one for about 15$. Will that one be ok?

[RalphP]

Originally Posted by MiLo

Would i be able to buy any cheap one at say walmart and it have the same results as a more expensive one? I seen one for about 15$. Will that one be ok?

Do you have a Harbor Freight nearby? They usually have some on sale - and if you'll check the magazines / sunday fliers / etc., you can grab one for free sometimes (!!!)

For this, yep, it won't make much difference - you're looking for "Is it around 12.6 to 13.8V or is it about 4V?" kind of difference.

Matter of fact, I keep several of the free Harbor Freight ones for in-the-field beat-on "Oops, shouldn't have measured the resistance of a live 220V line" stuff. Won't use my Beckman or Fluke for that ... Especially since replacements today would run me about $250 to $400 each for them (!!!) But then, sometimes I need that quality for my measurements. Sometimes, it doesn't matter.

RwP

[jawa]

or use a test light

[MiLo]

ok so i grabbed a multimeter and one of those test lights just because i didnt have one... now on to the test... do i use this while the car is on or off?

[MiLo]

Update... I cut the old wire harness off and soldered the new one on.. And just my luck, still have the same flickering problem. Except that when I flip the switch to on and not auto, the head light stays lit.. So now. I figure I won't use the headlights as drl's. I have to manually turn my lights on for them to work properly.

[RalphP]

You know, auto <> DRL.

That is, the auto on/off is independent of the DRL logic.

I'd STILL go for a heavy gauge (12ga or so) relay harness and quit futzing with the stock (WAY too small!) wiring harness.

RwP

[MiLo]

Originally Posted by RalphP

You know, auto <> DRL.

That is, the auto on/off is independent of the DRL logic.

I'd STILL go for a heavy gauge (12ga or so) relay harness and quit futzing with the stock (WAY too small!) wiring harness.

RwP

so i should do a full rewire? or just cut and solder on the bigger gauge?

[RalphP]

Originally Posted by MiLo

so i should do a full rewire? or just cut and solder on the bigger gauge?

You can do either. Luckily, the Alero uses actual, honest-to-$DEITY relays in its headlight wiring.

However, I'd use a second wire harness that plugs into the factory harness so that if I manage to screw it up, I don't kill my headlights solid, but can fall back to the factory harness.

RwP