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Old 01-03-2015, 09:37 PM   #1
David19
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fixing security?

Ive had the security problem since ive owned my alero and ill be getting some money to spend on my car here soon what do i all need to do to do the bypass should i just take it to the dealer anyone know what ill be looking at spending?
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Old 01-03-2015, 10:54 PM   #2
Silver SLP
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Just follow these instructions exactly. Very easy to do yourself and it works great. http://www.bergerweb.net/AleroSecurity/


This information is not my own, but rather that of Richard M. Berger - Copyright 2002 - 2015 Bergerweb.net.

Source: Berger, Richard M. "GM Passlock Security Fix." GM Passlock Security Fix. N.p., 29 Sept. 2010. Web. 3 Jan. 2015.
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Old 01-04-2015, 10:51 PM   #3
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Thank you!
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Old 01-05-2015, 01:02 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silver SLP View Post
Just follow these instructions exactly. Very easy to do yourself and it works great. http://www.bergerweb.net/AleroSecurity/

That is good info. Should sticky this!
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Old 03-27-2015, 10:57 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silver SLP View Post
Just follow these instructions exactly. Very easy to do yourself and it works great. http://www.bergerweb.net/AleroSecurity/

Has anyone tried the link above? I have to do the 10 minute wait on my car almost every other time i go to start it. I was thinking about the remote start now that im back from deployment, but if this works, then it'll save me some cash. Thanks guys.
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Old 03-27-2015, 11:35 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joserivas19 View Post
Has anyone tried the link above? I have to do the 10 minute wait on my car almost every other time i go to start it. I was thinking about the remote start now that im back from deployment, but if this works, then it'll save me some cash. Thanks guys.

I've done it. As I stated, very easy and works great.

If you'd rather not solder, you can go this route instead - http://www.bergerweb.net/PasslockFix/


This information is not my own, but rather that of Richard M. Berger - Copyright 2002 - 2015 Bergerweb.net.

Source: Berger, Richard M. "GM Passlock Security Fix." GM Passlock Security Fix. N.p., 29 Sept. 2010. Web. 27 Mar. 2015.
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Old 03-29-2015, 09:53 AM   #7
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Oh ok Silver, thank you. i will definitely try this then. i dont know how i feel about the connector, plus theres no more radio shack, where would i get the parts??? LMAO!!! I think im going to fix my hazard switch while im in that area already.
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Old 04-15-2015, 09:18 PM   #8
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Btw i saw a mention about accidently disconnecting the radio then needing the radio code to get it working again.

How do you find out your radio security code?
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Old 04-15-2015, 11:47 PM   #9
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Bring your vin number to the dealer
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Old 05-09-2015, 02:40 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silver SLP View Post
I've done it. As I stated, very easy and works great.

If you'd rather not solder, you can go this route instead - http://www.bergerweb.net/PasslockFix/


This information is not my own, but rather that of Richard M. Berger - Copyright 2002 - 2015 Bergerweb.net.

Source: Berger, Richard M. "GM Passlock Security Fix." GM Passlock Security Fix. N.p., 29 Sept. 2010. Web. 27 Mar. 2015.

I think I need some guidance on this one Silver, i did everything as written using a 3300 ohm resistor. when i went to start it, it didnt start because the light was flashing. so i waited the 10 mins for it to clear. Once it cleared i turned the car off and when i went to restart it, NOTHING!!! everything is blank. I have no lights of anything come on, no click, nothing.

Any ideas what it could be?
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Old 05-10-2015, 12:50 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joserivas19 View Post
I think I need some guidance on this one Silver, i did everything as written using a 3300 ohm resistor. when i went to start it, it didnt start because the light was flashing. so i waited the 10 mins for it to clear. Once it cleared i turned the car off and when i went to restart it, NOTHING!!! everything is blank. I have no lights of anything come on, no click, nothing.

Any ideas what it could be?


1. The non-solder instructions say to use a 2200 ohm resistor.

2. Did you turn the ignition off for 5 seconds between the security light clearing and trying to restart your car?

3. Try the 30 minute learn procedure that is posted at the bottom of the instructions

4. If the above 3 options do not work, you have a fault in your bypass that you built, BCM problem, or PCM problem.
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Old 05-21-2015, 06:01 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silver SLP View Post
1. The non-solder instructions say to use a 2200 ohm resistor.

2. Did you turn the ignition off for 5 seconds between the security light clearing and trying to restart your car?

3. Try the 30 minute learn procedure that is posted at the bottom of the instructions

4. If the above 3 options do not work, you have a fault in your bypass that you built, BCM problem, or PCM problem.

The 30 minute relearn did the trick Silver. Thank you for the tip. i hadnt seen the 30 minute writeup. I've had it for over a week now and no more getting stranded!!!
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Old 05-21-2015, 06:41 PM   #13
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Glad to hear that your car is fixed!
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Old 06-11-2015, 01:18 PM   #14
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What I never really figured out, would this also works with cars were the passlock is linked to the keyfob?

As i understand, the cars in question here do the check as soon as a key is inserted / turned.
But on cars with a keyfob the Passlock is open for a brief moment as soon as you unlock the door via the transmitter. You can just start the car during this time. If the time passes you can not start the car with the key as the passlock system is active again.

So, are these measurements gonna work with the keyfob versions too, or only the key version?
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Old 06-11-2015, 05:32 PM   #15
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My car has key-less entry and this procedure works every time whether I unlock the doors with the key fob or the key.
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Old 06-11-2015, 09:35 PM   #16
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Do you have the original US model, or an Export Model?
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Old 06-12-2015, 12:28 AM   #17
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US model
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Old 06-12-2015, 02:05 PM   #18
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I would think it would be easier and better to do the fix at the BCM, as described here:
http://www.bergerweb.net/grandamsecurityfix.htm

I would think that it's easier to remove the panel by the glovebox, and there there is less wiring between the BCM and the resistor to go bad as well. Unless I am missing something here???

I do still need to do this sometime soon, since I will be stuck sitting in a 100 degree car for 10 minutes sometime this summer if I don't.

That and I plan of pulling whatever fuses are necessary instead of disconnecting the battery negative. That's also easier, I just need to check the schematics first to see which ones to pull.
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