Highs And Lows Together

freakout · 03-03-2005, 02:44 AM

Hi All
has anyone hooked up high and low headlights to run together. I have done this on my pick up is excellent side view (lots of deer in my neck of the woods). Have heard that these lights are negatively switched?? Does this mean that power is always there and the ground is interupted. Also has anyone ever heard of "Dr. Crankenstien subwoofers??

TreeFrogg169 · 03-03-2005, 07:59 AM

They make a kit for the trucks to make the headlights do that you may try a GM truck kit and see if it will work.

Dr. Crakenstein. I haven't seen those in like 5 or 6 years. That is old school stuff there I don't know if they even still make them. A friend of mine back in high school had a single 15 and it sounded darn good. Just rember nothing beats a good JL or Alpine.

freakout · 03-03-2005, 09:17 AM

thanks, i copied the kit from painles for my truck (chev) really easy was hoping the car will be just as easy took longer on the truck to take out the grill than wiring it in. the sub sounds good was wondering how much power i can put to it seems to want more than i am giving it. not building a show car but a long distance cruizer planning to go to vegas this year

03-03-2005, 10:09 AM

Id love to see pics of those headlights.....

Cyber Knight · 03-03-2005, 11:17 AM

I have 2 12" Dr Crankenstein subs hooked up to my PC, used to be in my car. They pound huge!

stealthlero · 03-03-2005, 12:38 PM

so did you figure out how to get those headlights to work together?? lets see some pics of em

mike2002 · 03-03-2005, 01:34 PM

i think that our car has just 1 wiring harness going into the healight, then it Y's off. if thats the case you could burn up those wires without upgrading the harness

a better idea would be to adapt a highbeam bulb to fit in the low beam spot, ive seen that done

freakout · 03-03-2005, 09:09 PM

Gonna do my lights on the weekend. Will let you know how it goes. IF this works will post pics and a wiring diagram.

hurstalero · 03-04-2005, 10:44 PM

I figured out that if you slowly pull the bright switch towards you instead of away from you to engage it, and you pull it just the right length that all four lights will come on until you let go of it. Please tell us if you can get all four to stay on with a wiring kit like they sell for GM trucks. I live in Kansas and do a lot of country night driving. Imagine that country driving in Kansas and I live in the third largest city in the state. Guess having a total population of 2.5 million people in the state leaves a lot of wide open dark unlit roads at night.

Weber

freakout · 03-05-2005, 12:45 AM

I know what you mean about kansas, I have been through that state. Up here we have alot of animals. Me and the family travel quite a bit the lights are needed. On my truck there has been no strain on the harness I do not plan on upping the wattage, extra heat on the lenses probably never thought of that.

hurstalero · 03-05-2005, 01:45 AM

Tell me about it! With all the critters that run around here at night I need some powerful rays in front of me. As low as my car is a squirel could put a scuff on my ride at speed! I have upgraded to Silverstar Bulbs with Steet Glow fogs, but when its overcast and I am in the boons (every weekend!) its like a cave! My 83 Monte Carlo has upgraded head lights. With just the driving lights on people would flash their lights at me until I turned on my brights and all four of them mugs came on a arkweld/tanned their rears. Man that cars lights are bright as hell. Wish my alero could throw some heat like that.

Weber

freakout · 03-06-2005, 01:14 AM

Well I attempted to run my high & low beam together. The lights are wired different than what I am used to. So before I go cutting wires I need to do more research. Does anybody know where i can get detailed wiring diagrams? Day wasn't a total loss though i cleared my corners.

03-06-2005, 09:56 PM

I will scan the diagrams in tomorrow at work. But I can tell you the wiring colors now.
The left and right are wired differently
with the retention tab on top, left wire being A as below
********
********
**************************
*****************************
** A B C D **
*****************************
*************************
Left -
A = DK BLU = DRL Headlamp High Beam Supply Voltage (circuit 593 on dia.)
B = ORN = Battery Positive Voltage (circuit 740 on dia.)
C= PNK = Headlamp High Beam Signal (circuit 1200 on dia.)
D = DK BLU = Headlamp Low Beam Signal (circuit 1201 on dia.)
Right -
A = ORN = Battery Positive Voltage (circuit 640 on dia.)
B = ORN = Battery Positive Voltage (circuit 640 on dia.)
C = PNK = Headlamp High Beam Signal (circuit 1200 on dia.)
D = DK BLU = Headlamp Low Beam Signal (circuit 1201 on dia.)

I will post the schematic tomorrow so you can see the circuit numbers referenced
I hope this helps.

freakout · 03-07-2005, 10:55 PM

First, csealy_31 thank you for the schematics, glad you sent them that way. You were right, I wouldn't have been able to read them any other way.
Second, so far I am not able to do what I want :-(. The negative is interupted. I need to figure some things out, I'm hoping i can get a relay that enables ground. I just want to be sure before I go cutting and adding in, don't want to fry something.

mike2002 · 03-07-2005, 10:59 PM

why dont you draw up a wiring diagram on paint or photoshop, and some of us can see if we can figure out how to wire it up, shouldn't be to hard.

03-08-2005, 09:35 AM

A relay will be able to connect ground or hot, whatever you wire to it. You just need hot to enable the connection the relay creates (does that make sense?) All a relay does is use electrmagnetic force to throw a switch inside and creat the connection, therefore you can hook whatever you want up to the businees side of the relay. That's how the BCM does it, it senses the signal from the switch and then ground the circuit. That's why I was wondering if you could work the low voltage side of the circuit to get the hi/lo to work together. The problem is I think the switch is still like the older cars.... a hot wire coming in and then the hi/lo switch merely changes between the two. If you connect the lo to the hot side then you will have hi/lo all the time together. Unless you could figure out a way to use a diode. IE. say red is hi and blu is low. hook up the red to blu with a diode so the power can't come back through to the hi beam side when you have the low beams on. The lows would always be on, but the power would only get to the hi beams when you hit the switch.

mike2002 · 03-08-2005, 01:47 PM

but, like someone said if you pull back the stalk part way, you can get both to come on, its only if you pull it all the way (i never use them so i dont remember exactly) do JUST the high's come on

03-08-2005, 02:16 PM

pull back the stalk part way, you can get both to come on, yeah I do this from time to time gets a little tiresome though.

03-09-2005, 10:07 AM

Yes, pulling back on the stalk works, I have done it myself. When you pull back both contacts are touching. That's why it works. We're just trying to come up with a way you can turn your hi beams on and not have to leave your hand on the switch in the 'tween stage. 'cause if you flinch or hit a bump you have to find the 'sweet' spot again. Also, this would be useful for extended use like the folks out in the plains or low population areas. The only problem I see is the extra heat from the lamps, especially if you run ultra bright lamps. You may 'bubble' your plastic lamp covers.

freakout · 03-12-2005, 09:45 PM

ALRIGHTY GUYS, DEED IS DONE - highs and lows together controlled by the high beam switch.

Warning this is a 2 step procedure, if you dont do the part with fog lights, they will not work.

As you look at this the relays are in fact wired up in reverse, for this to work they need to supply ground.Follow my pin numbers. (I hope they are the same as yours) will post pic of relay wiring diagram.

1. You will need 2 30 amp relays (30 might be high but it is what I used). Relays need to have 2 pin #87. 1 in-line fuse, I used 30 amp here as well. I used heat shrink on all connections. There are various spade connecters you will need (mostly female). Lots of butt connecters with heat shrink on them. Aprox 10 feet of wire. 10 feet wire loom. Wire and loom are just a guess, I bought 10 feet of 1/4 inch loom and used it exactly.

2. You will need to find somewhere to mount two relays. I put 1 on the rad support by the battery, on the existing ground bolt(there are 2 right there in between battery and rad support). This is also where i hooked up my ground. The other one I put on the rad support, closer to the center of the car on rad bracket. (used existing bolt)

3. I hooked up my power wire to the power on the relay/fuse box under the hood by aircleaner. Wire in in-line fuse (close to power connection is recommended). This needs to be able to power both relays, so you'll have to splice it with 2 connectors. This connects to pin # 85 on relay A & B. LEAVE FUSE OUT

4. Ground wire needs to be run to pin #30/51 on relay A & B

5. Remove driver's side headlight. With the lock tab up on the plug (facing you) the blue wire on the right side (BE CAREFUL THERE ARE 2 BLUE WIRES, it is the one that is grounded when low beams are on) You need to splice a wire into it. I cut back from plug maybe 3 inches and used heat shrink butt connectors. Connect this to pin # 87 on relay A. This is the low beam signal.

6. The high beam signal is the pink wire. Splice into it and connect it to pin # 86 on relay A.

With all this done you will have normal low beams, then highs and lows together BUT NO FOG LIGHTS. (If you put in fuse lol)

7. Now splice a wire into the black wire of your foglights. This connects to pin # 87 relay B.

8. Connect a wire from pin # 87 relay A to pin # 86 relay B.

9. If everything is hooked up right, put the fuse in, that is it

:thumbsup: