Idiot Lights!!!

I was feeling a little lazy last week so I had my g/f bring the car in to have the oil changed and the front end lubel at "Just Lubes" two days later I was leaving work...started the car up after it had been sitting in the sun all day and the lifters rattled like it was out of oil...so I shut it off and checked the oil...(it was full but it ran like water) so I fired it back up and after about a min the rattle went away...so I go over to just lubes...and inquire as to what weight of oil was used...5W30 (good winter oil...but not in the heat) so after having it out witht the half-witted manager he concluded that 3.1L V-6 is notorious for bad oil pumps and valve train chatter..which is true only as "we" all know Olds uses the 3.4...so after explaining this to the moron he had some story about how they're the same engines...needless to say I brought the car home and changed the oil...10W30...but now my change oil light will not go out...I've hit the reset several times to no avail...any ideas? Also for the past week the ((ABS))& Trac off lights come on periodically while driving followed by a warning chime...slip the car into neutral...shut it off start it back up and the are gone...maybe for an hour maybe for a day...any ideas???...also does the low tire tire pressure warning light actually work on these things? There I think I'm done any ideas would be appreciated.

Yes, the low tire pressure light actually works. Mine has brought several nails in tires to my attention.
I run 5W30 in my 3.4 all year, there was no need to chew out the oil change dude and switch to 10W30 (especially up there). And he's kind of right, the 3.4L is just a bored out 3.1L.
I don't know how you're trying to reset it. You have to push reset until "change oil" flashes, then hold the reset button until the car chimes. All this with the key "ON."
ABS and Trac Off lights at the same time are usually indicative of a bad hub, usually the abs sensor part. It's integrated though, so you have to replace the whole hub. Use the search and you can find plenty of info on how to diagnose and fix that.

^what she said.

Go Lindsey, Go Lindsey

*takes a bow* :grin:

I've held that reset button for quite a while...as for the hub I'll have it looked at I still have warranty on it...I've talked to a couple of mechanics and they said the same thing the 5W30 is to thin in hot weather...read the owners manual (even it recommends 10W30 for higher temps)...but as for the bored out 3.1L you learn something new everyday...Thanx

You won't hurt it running 10W30, no. Sault Ste Marie isn't what they had in mind when they said higher temps. More like the deserts of the southern US. But go ahead, it'll be fine, personal preference, just no need to yell at oil change people and freak out about it.
When you reset it, the car is off, key is "ON," the "change oil" is flashing, then you hold it 'till it chimes? That should do it. If not, I dunno.
If you have warranty, yeah, bring it in. Hubs are a pain to change on your own.

exactly what she said, im in southern cali and was just in palm springs where it was 115 and i did my oil change to 10w-30 before i left, i normally use 5w-30 because its normally like 65-80 year round where im at(not that im bragging lol).....

she nailed the reset on the head, you must just not be doing it right, give her directions a shot....

and change out the hub, 99% sure thats the problem but go get it scanned. if you know you are qualified and can handle changing out the hub on your own you will save yourself some money, not too much cause the hub is expensive lol....

good luck man