Can't Get My Kenwood To Fit

I installed a Kenwood 5028 deck today in the Alero, and it won't slide all the way back. It sticks out too far. There are no wires in the way, is there something that I am missing?

Also the Retained Accessory Power is not working. I used the Metra harness, and bought everything at Crutchfield. The chimes work right. What did I hook up wrong to not have this?

I appreciate any feedback, I have done several stereos, but nothing in a GM product.

Thanks,

Tara

what ya gotta do is get out a dremel tool and cut out some un-needed plastic behind where your headunit sits, we all have to do it.........

Oh, that doesn't sound too fun Thanks for the tip!

[mikegett]

Some models loose the retained 12 volt when the Head Unit is removed. You will need to locate another 12 volt source in the fuse panel and tap into it. If you are unfamiliar with this proceedure, simply go to autozone and ask for a fuse tap. It is a tap that allows two fuses to be pluged into the orignial slot only one will have a connection for the wire.

I just took my fist and punched out and broke that plastic peice, it still is going to be a little off but you just adjust ur metal sleeve onto the kit.

LOL, I dremeled it today. Gotta love the smell of burning plastic I was a littl bit leary doing that to a new car, but I got the Kenwood to fit in there. It sounds good, too.

[mikegett]

You can't forget the smell of burning plastic in a new car. My alero was my first brand new car and it KILLED me to dremel it. Not to mention that I am kind of known for having very bad luck and thought for certain it would burn to the ground. I guess I got lucky because it didn't burn.

I had the same problem installing my alpine.


Some dash mount kits are made for dash's that don't have a deep enough opening. It's too late now, but they do make black box like extensions; they just make your radio stick out, while covering the edges. I took some tin snips and snipped out the extra plastic fram work that was keeping me form a clean install.

About the accessory power. I had the same problem, although I decided on not having the chime box. The GM accessory wire is a negative ground, and most aftermarkets accessory wire use a positive. A short term fix just to see if it was working was tap it into the power wire. SO I new my wiring was good.
I then just ran it into a positive accessory source. I looked at the drivers, then passenger size fuse box. Passenger has a sunroof fuse, or opening. I tapped the accessory wire into the wire that leads to the sunroof fuse.
Unfortunately, this is not accessory; It's only power when in the running position. Possibly the service manual may have this info, or if you have time you'll just have to go through with a test light to find something with accessory power.
My install's clean; I suppose when I find the time I can go through and find an accessory, and not ignition on wire. Time consuming and monotonous.

Hey, thanks for that great info!! That's what I needed If I ever stop driving the car, I'll fix that. I liked that retained accessory feature. I'll have to find my test light first, but it would be worth it to get it to work like stock. My aftermarket chime is quiet, I put duct tape on it, and it is perfect now. lol

[mikegett]

You will have to have a metra or comparable brand adaptor for retained accessory to work. You will have to verify, some models only do the chimes.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-vt781xVsG5n/c...751&I=120GMRC01
If you have the retained accessory on your car, then the HU comunicates with a CAN network or databus signal. This network is what gives the HU a switched 12volt. When you remove the HU, the network sees no reason to activate the 12volt switched. The network is also what delays your power off after the ignition is switched. The only way to keep this function is by mounting your factroy HU in the trunk (via a special cable) or by using a aftermarket adaptor to mimic the HU signal to the network.

That link I believe is the Metra adapter that I have. Mine was 79.95 at crutchfield.

[slowandlow]

i dont have one of thoes all i lose is the beeping when the door opens.

Sometimes mine will ding forever! While I driving it will just keep on dinging, and also when I take my key out. It only has done this to me twice, but annoying the same! I triple checked everything, and I have it hooked up right. Oh well!

[StackS 757]

Originally posted by cobra621@Aug 15 2005, 09:38 PM
Sometimes mine will ding forever! While I driving it will just keep on dinging, and also when I take my key out. It only has done this to me twice, but annoying the same! I triple checked everything, and I have it hooked up right. Oh well!

Quoted post

that happends to me too.. all I do is turn the car off turn the lights on(so it will chime) then open the door... after that turn the lights off close the door and restart...


its kinda weird but it only happens like once a month.. or when u start the car w/ the door open..




as far as keeping RAP how much is the fuse tap from Autozone

o as a side note,anyone using the Metra door chime box thing in a later model GM needs to make sure they get the 2.6 edition( i think its the number, i know its .6) because if you don't your door chime piece will randomly go off and won't stop. I've had this and still happens to me. I got a local shop to install it and they had to call Metra and metra knew all about it but they have to have the box sent back into metra to get updated. Just FYI.

Well, I got the Metra kit from Crutchfield. Maybe I should give them a call. It's a pain!

I can never start my car with the door open, otherwise it will chime for a long time. Very irritating!

Thanks for all the info!