clutch

[colonel6632]

hey guys... so i'm not sure if there is a problem with my clutch or not. i know it's a hydraulic clutch, but i'm not sure if i can adjust it. i think mines getting old and tired...

[Nate's Alero]

how much travel before it grabs?

[JLw7123]

is it slipping and not grabing

[colonel6632]

i can move the pedal a couple inches before it does... but sometimes i think it grabs really hard and the car kinda jerks... and what do you mean by slipping... you mean while it's in gear?

[jayson_waltz]

if its not slipping instead of taking off hard when you accelerate hard, its fine. i know my dads beater truck i use only has about a inch on total use right at the top, but it doesn't slip so its good for a lil while yet.

[colonel6632]

oh... ya... if i put it in first and just let it idle around... then floor it the tires squawk and she takes off.

and it moves about a few inches without anything... then it just engages as i move it out... slowly... if that makes sense. the clutch doesn't just go on instantly

and i haven't exactly been easy on this clutch... i often rev it and pop it... i know i shouldn't but blackies and smoke are fun

[jayson_waltz]

^ from the sounds of things there is nothing wrong at all with your clutch.

[colonel6632]

thanks man... just wanted to make sure

[Lanojoe]

if you want to know if the clutch and pressure plate is ok put the first gear until 3000 rpm shift de 5th gear, drop the clutch and put the accelerator to the floor.... if your rpm dont grow for nothing....everything allright.

[CactusWill]

Hydraulic clutches are self adjusting. Your symptoms are due to normal wear and tear and include things like wear on the flywheel and the clutch plate itself becoming warped over time.


Clutches wear like this naturally. If its not slipping, and driveability is not affected in a disturbing way, then you're good. But if you plan to keep the car for awhile, you might want to do your homework on replacement. 10-20k more miles might be the point where it starts getting worse, and if it does than you'll already have some knowledge about how to fix it.

[colonel6632]

well... the car was acting like this when i bought it 60xxxkm ago. still seems the same. i do have some problems getting my car into first sometimes from a stop and sometimes it grinds a little going into third. transmission problem?

[worknprog.99]

just a question, how long have you driven a stick?

[colonel6632]

for about 60xxxkm lol. i had a car about a year before that was stick... and only owned it for 3 weeks. i'm pretty much learning on this car. i by no mean know how to drive a stick properly... i just get from a to b without stalling.

[AbHeLlRaZoR]

for about 60xxxkm lol. i had a car about a year before that was stick... and only owned it for 3 weeks. i'm pretty much learning on this car. i by no mean know how to drive a stick properly... i just get from a to b without stalling.

You'll catch on I learned during a snowy November, now that I have an auto I miss driving standard. Use the time you have before it snows to improve.

[colonel6632]

lol. i got it a year ago now... and i'm trying to learn... i'm much better than before

[Blktrax]

Something to consider because the system is hydraulic is the fluid and wear on parts. With a honda in my past the secondary cyl, on the trans, starting leaking, well sweating fluid, over time air got past the seals and gave the pedal a mushy feel, but then insto-engagement and as you said difficulty going into first or reverse. Meaning it was disengaging, but not entirely.

Quick fix was to bleed the fluid with new. Total fix was replace emtn of the secondary cyl and again fluis the fluid, witch is regular dot 3 brake fluid. I dont remember exactly what the manual says, but I flush my brake fluid every 2 years or 30,000 miles.

[colonel6632]

well i'll do a flush and see if that helps. i know this winter after my engine was replaced the clutch stopped working at -40. the clutch went down but nothing happened... bled the clutch and it's been working since...

and i appreciate all the help i'm receiving in the thread. thanks guys!

[misslindseysue]

Problems getting into gear and grinding is the syncros, not the clutch. That's a much bigger job - make sure you try to rev-match as much as possible so that they don't have to work as hard to slow down/speed up the engine when you cram it in gear.

[CactusWill]

Not necessarily, when the clutch or pressure plate/flywheel assembly is warped, you can get similar symptoms.

[colonel6632]

well i guess i'll just keep driving it until something breaks

[misslindseysue]

Not necessarily, when the clutch or pressure plate/flywheel assembly is warped, you can get similar symptoms.

Doesn't make rev-matching bad advice.

[colonel6632]

Doesn't make rev-matching bad advice.


sure doesnt... i've actually tried a few times to speed shift... its a slow process lol

[Blktrax]

well i'll do a flush and see if that helps. i know this winter after my engine was replaced the clutch stopped working at -40. the clutch went down but nothing happened... bled the clutch and it's been working since...

and i appreciate all the help i'm receiving in the thread. thanks guys!
Sounds like moisture in the fluid to me, that cold, its freezing in the secondary, oil on top of water so the water sits at the lowest point in the secondary.

Problems getting into gear and grinding is the syncros, not the clutch. That's a much bigger job - make sure you try to rev-match as much as possible so that they don't have to work as hard to slow down/speed up the engine when you cram it in gear.

I'm not insisting its not the trans, but a basicly stock Ecotec unless BEAT on constantly, will rarely distroy a trans.
(Quoted)
http://www.clutchwizard.com/diagnosis.htm

Clutch Release Problems:

Clutch release problems are common. Even though the clutch pedal is depressed, you have trouble shifting. In some cases it is impossible to get the transmission into gear. Sometimes there is an accompanying sound of grinding gears! When these symptoms occur, they are most often the result of the clutch not fully disengaging. The transmission input shaft is not allowed to come to a stop. Engine revolutions are still being transmitted to the transmission. Sources for this problem vary according to the type of clutch mechanism your vehicle has.

Hydraulically Operated Clutch:

Clutch master cylinder leaking or bypassing pressure, slave cylinder leaking, clutch flex hose leaking, pedal bushings worn or missing, or a cracked firewall can reduce the system’s ability to disengage the clutch. Rule of thumb: If the clutch master cylinder is bad, replace both master and slave cylinders as a pair. This will save you future heartache.

Internal clutch Release Problems:

Not all release problems are caused by the release mechanism. Things can go wrong inside the clutch as well. A loose damper spring in the clutch disc, bent disc, frozen pilot bearing, collapsed release bearing, or metal shrapnel from a broken cover can cause the clutch to bind and not fully release when the pedal is depressed. The release fork might bend. The pivot ball can wear or break. There are many reasons for a clutch to hang up.

[colonel6632]

well as soon as i get paid i'll try bleeding the clutch again. i'll just use dot 3... or is there anything better to use

[AbHeLlRaZoR]

you could always take it into a transmission shop and have them look at it, but if you don't want to I can't blame you. I'd sooner work on my car myself than pay an arm and a leg to let someone else do it.

[CactusWill]

Clutch Release Problems:

Clutch release problems are common. Even though the clutch pedal is depressed, you have trouble shifting. In some cases it is impossible to get the transmission into gear. Sometimes there is an accompanying sound of grinding gears! When these symptoms occur, they are most often the result of the clutch not fully disengaging. The transmission input shaft is not allowed to come to a stop. Engine revolutions are still being transmitted to the transmission. Sources for this problem vary according to the type of clutch mechanism your vehicle has.

Hydraulically Operated Clutch:

Clutch master cylinder leaking or bypassing pressure, slave cylinder leaking, clutch flex hose leaking, pedal bushings worn or missing, or a cracked firewall can reduce the system’s ability to disengage the clutch. Rule of thumb: If the clutch master cylinder is bad, replace both master and slave cylinders as a pair. This will save you future heartache.

Internal clutch Release Problems:

Not all release problems are caused by the release mechanism. Things can go wrong inside the clutch as well. A loose damper spring in the clutch disc, bent disc, frozen pilot bearing, collapsed release bearing, or metal shrapnel from a broken cover can cause the clutch to bind and not fully release when the pedal is depressed. The release fork might bend. The pivot ball can wear or break. There are many reasons for a clutch to hang up.


That was my impression. Once the clutch wears out, its nothing a clutch kit and new flywheel wouldn't fix, and possibly the clutch fork.

[Cliff8928]

well... the car was acting like this when i bought it 60xxxkm ago. still seems the same. i do have some problems getting my car into first sometimes from a stop and sometimes it grinds a little going into third. transmission problem?

Mine actually has a little bit of a slight "grind" going into 3rd as well. I guess that's a fairly common problem. It only has just under 53,000 miles on it.

That was my impression. Once the clutch wears out, its nothing a clutch kit and new flywheel wouldn't fix, and possibly the clutch fork.

No clutch fork on GM FWD transmissions since around '91 as far as I know.

[Blktrax]

well as soon as i get paid i'll try bleeding the clutch again. i'll just use dot 3... or is there anything better to use

You can use dot 4 also, 3&4 they intermix, dot 5 is incompatable. Really though, dot 3 is plenty, anything above is exta money spent.

[undersc0re]

I had an issue with moisture in my clutch fluid, in the winter very very cold here, the moisture froze and my clutch stuck at the floor, they tried the slave and clutch assembly first unfortunately and it still did it. They then changed the master cylinder and flushed the system, and all was well, the fluid was very dirty and had lots of moisture. I don't know why an Alero clutch hydraulic system picks up moisture and gets dirty so fast....but I guess its just the way it is. 1600 bux later I have a new clutch system.

[colonel6632]

lol. so just bleed it lots. will do. thanks guys!