View Full Version : Headlight wire harness
So ive had this problem with my passenger headlight blinking whenever I hit a bump, I figured out that it wasnt the bulb or the socket or even the headlight itself, it was the harness that was loose and a prong wasnt making full contact. So I went to the junk yard and picked up a couple just to make sure at least one works properly. I did notice that the wires are different, one had 2 blue wires 1 pink and 1 orange, the other had 2 orange wires 1 pink and 1 blue. Which one do I use? And is there any difference on the wires to begin with? Now I just need to connect it. What would be the best way? Solder and shrink tubing, or use butt connectors and crimp?
Soldering is always best. As for the wires. Get out a multimeter
I'm not too familiar with multimeters.. well i know that it measures continuity, volts, current, resistance and a lil more but what exactly would i be measuring? and what am i looking for?
Just measure volts. Google headlight wiring for your cars year. Amd the one u pilled the plug from
Would i be able to buy any cheap one at say walmart and it have the same results as a more expensive one? I seen one for about 15$. Will that one be ok?
RalphP
06-19-2013, 03:03 PM
Would i be able to buy any cheap one at say walmart and it have the same results as a more expensive one? I seen one for about 15$. Will that one be ok?
Do you have a Harbor Freight nearby? They usually have some on sale - and if you'll check the magazines / sunday fliers / etc., you can grab one for free sometimes (!!!)
For this, yep, it won't make much difference - you're looking for "Is it around 12.6 to 13.8V or is it about 4V?" kind of difference.
Matter of fact, I keep several of the free Harbor Freight ones for in-the-field beat-on "Oops, shouldn't have measured the resistance of a live 220V line" stuff. Won't use my Beckman or Fluke for that ... :p Especially since replacements today would run me about $250 to $400 each for them (!!!) But then, sometimes I need that quality for my measurements. Sometimes, it doesn't matter.
RwP
ok so i grabbed a multimeter and one of those test lights just because i didnt have one... now on to the test... do i use this while the car is on or off?
Update... I cut the old wire harness off and soldered the new one on.. And just my luck, still have the same flickering problem. Except that when I flip the switch to on and not auto, the head light stays lit.. So now. I figure I won't use the headlights as drl's. I have to manually turn my lights on for them to work properly.
RalphP
07-01-2013, 12:17 AM
You know, auto <> DRL.
That is, the auto on/off is independent of the DRL logic.
I'd STILL go for a heavy gauge (12ga or so) relay harness and quit futzing with the stock (WAY too small!) wiring harness.
RwP
You know, auto <> DRL.
That is, the auto on/off is independent of the DRL logic.
I'd STILL go for a heavy gauge (12ga or so) relay harness and quit futzing with the stock (WAY too small!) wiring harness.
RwP
so i should do a full rewire? or just cut and solder on the bigger gauge?
RalphP
07-02-2013, 10:50 PM
so i should do a full rewire? or just cut and solder on the bigger gauge?
You can do either. Luckily, the Alero uses actual, honest-to-$DEITY relays in its headlight wiring.
However, I'd use a second wire harness that plugs into the factory harness so that if I manage to screw it up, I don't kill my headlights solid, but can fall back to the factory harness.
RwP
vBulletin v3.6.0, Copyright ©2000-2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.