What is your scaner reporting as far as "delivered trans torque" right at the commanded shift point between 1 and 2 bud?

sex :cool:

There's a good reason for that. :lol: Air filter is under the plastic shield

It drops to 295 between shifts. But when there is a lot of wheelspin, the mph drops and the PCM downshifts it back from 2nd to 1st. At least I think that's what is happening. Doesn't do it with slicks at the track. Might as well post this here too (note: this is NOT a scan of the video, but of a faster rolling start):

Yeah, can't sell any kits, that would be prostitution :p

It drops to 295 between shifts. But when there is a lot of wheelspin, the mph drops and the PCM downshifts it back from 2nd to 1st. At least I think that's what is happening. Doesn't do it with slicks at the track. Might as well post this here too (note: this is NOT a scan of the video, but of a faster rolling start):

I think you are spot on. As far as the shift goes, in your pressure table.... from 250Tq to the top of your table add 5% to it and try it again. The trans is built now, take advantage of it and give the shift some snap. Set desired time to .1 if you havent already

2nd, get bigger injectors bud. What size are you running right now?

3rd, what * Thermostat you running?

I think fuel and cooling are ok, but I don't understand the way those tranny tables are set up, don't see how it could be tweeked further -- max base pressure can't be set higher than 96. Shift times are at 0.1

240-260 is still shifting at 70-80% there. Add 5 to the 240 and 260 rows. With wheel spin I bet you hit that area. Are you experiencing slip? If so, you can subrtact 5 from the force motor table from 132* to 240*, in rows 60-90%. Subtract another 5 in those locations if it still fells like its not grabing. You install a shift kit when you built it? If not, pretty sure one can be installed with a pan drop.
Over 80% in our fueling systems is static. The injector cannot open and close fast enough to feed it properly man. One step up is all you need, nothing crazy. Too big is a p.i.t.a to get any kind of idle out of.

Thanks, might as well tell me the maximum safe limit I can go on the Force Motor table, lol ...... No shift kit, but I used to use a switch that ungrounded one of the solenoids and defaulted it into full line presure, just for the track. I don't know how that affected the tables, but every shift was *WHAM*. I know it means 1-2 tenths in the 1/4 mile.

I don't mind having to reflash it for on and off the track, for right now.


It only goes over 80% for 1 second at the top of each gear, the rest of the run it averages 60-70%. But I sure don't want my plugs to be foulin' right now :p

I would not take more than 15-20 out of any area in the force table. Really, the only time we should really mess with that table is if you are dealing with slip. If you take 10 out, imo, and don't get the grab you want, I'd install a shift kit

You are using a WB to tune WOT? As long as the WB reads your fuel is good, then fook it bro, keep it as is for injectors!

Still haven't broke it
 

Swapped in the LS1 MAF and its calibration table, upgraded to larger filter tubing. First tests felt a little stronger on the street, could have sworn it ran smoother and shifted better, but time will tell.
According to the scans, the MAF reading of lb/min maximum increased as expected, but what was not expected is it ran a bit richer at WOT. IDC was up a couple per cent to 93, but the recorded MAF frequency was lower due to the different calibration.
If I get another chance at dry 60 degree temps, I'll take it to the track again. Intercooling progress is still behind schedule.

Is the engine P&P B?

alc inection
 

no


More hilarity, in the heat of the summer the Saab plastic coupler (SC outlet) "melted" after taking that vid, almost got stranded. heh

So now working on a new coupler/casting

and hooked this up, but under-engineered at least one component.... there's a 35psi pump and pressure switch under the MAF sensor somewhere...

the pressure switch failed, stuck closed "ON" after a WOT pass on the highway, which dumped in 50/50 alc/H2O at a rate of 8 ounces/minute.

But did we panic? Oh, no, this type of stuff is expected ;)



(simul-posted on 60DegV6)

I still think its beyond awesome you got that charger in there bro, God Dam I like your ride dude

Aww man, ya jinxed it , lol

Took it to da track last Sat. [without alcohol injection], and as I told a friend--

"....Well, the test n' tune did not go so well, there was a huge crowd
because of a drifting event they also had going on, so long waits in
line to run. But the car ran much slower than it should have. I did all
the things I needed to to get it prepped, but it no-go-fast, lol....

So now I'm trying to analyze the scans, but the most obvious ongoing
problem has been severe misfires on cylinder #1. And it ran worse since
I had an alcohol injection malfunction during a road test last month.
It looks like a new engine is the best way to go. Been putting that off
for a long time. At least I got to test it and find out there was a big
problem, and still make it back home :)....."

ran 2 14.5's and barely broke 90 mph, I'm officially arrived at the wtf point.

Got one(some) major gremlin(s) going on in here :(

Did you log your 1/4 B? If you did post your tune and run for me. If you didn't log I'd still like to see the tune that you ran at the track...
First suggestion, before even seeing the tune, put a fuel pressure gauge on it and tape it to your windscreen. Focus your camera on the gauge and take it out and hammer it. I would like to see what your fuel pressure is doing before anything else if at all possible bro

here's a link to one of the 1/4 runs--

E.T about 14.5, mph around 90 (23 inch tires)
(LS1 MAF w/ " '97 Corvette Calib, stock Alero sensor element" :

http://www.hptuners.com/forum/showth...899#post174899

I tested the fuel pressure at key-on, engine off, before going to track, it was about 55 psi. I have not checked at WOT in a long time. However, the symptoms are getting worse every time I drive it at WOT, I gotta be careful here, lol

One symptom over the last months has been running higher and higher narrowband O2 voltages, now it's getting to the point of maxing out the readings.

I had also replaced the O2 sensor with a GM version, changed the offsets back to stock. Put the stock MAF back in, same result on street.

So we have lost of measured boost, big loss of power, and yet the fuel consumption is way higher than normal, but no misfires at WOT.

Has a lot of misfires at low RPM, mostly on cylinder #1, where I suspect a bent valve. It's had that going on for over two years, but it's much worse now......

This is acting like the air charge is somehow disappearing before it gets to the fuel injectors, or something in the system is absorbing the power or dragging it down. Weird as hell...

Your rich. The MAF table, remove 5% from the entire cruise mode. Have you VE tuned it B? Take 3% from your entire VE table in cruise regions as well for now.
Have you tested your coils with an ohms tester? Should read between 5-7Kohms. Look to see if one is out of whack bro

**Shit B, while your there test the wires too... 600ohms/ft is what you want, so measure their length, top of boot to where it enters elbow at coil and figure out your ohms/ft. Don't want a stupid wire have you chasing your tail

You will probably have a good laugh at me, but what is that red under your coils? You got some kind of A/M ICM going on there? What kind of coils you running?

With what's reported through the NB I would look to make sure calibration of the WB is correct first. Did you check to make sure your WB reads the same as HP Tuners as well?

I would also get rid of the add vs RPM table and use the MAF only to fuel it. Change the entire PE table to 12.5 if that's what you are aiming for

I got stock coils but an MSD ignition. The red parts are adapters to patch the DIS-4 into the system, and it's mounted in front of the center console.

I've never had a fueling problem with this basic tune before, though I agree it would not hurt to fine tune the MAF and VE tables. In normal driving, you wouldn't think there is any big problem, just at WOT.

But there are no misfires happening at WOT either, so I don't see where it could be the ignition. The last time I lost power and boost like this, it was the LIM gasket, but the other symptoms were different then.

Something mechanically wrong with the engine is what I want to believe, since that would be better than a bad tranny or SC, lol.

Right now, a small power steering leak turned into a bigger one and drained the fluid out. So now I have to fix that first, sheesh

Tell me about this Royal Purple synthetic power steering fluid..... I want to put that in there......because Overkill! haha :awesome:

yay or nay? Will it hurt to have it mix with the fluid already in there?

So can't get a new PS pump, only reman units.... can't get the variable assist solenoid at all, which is where the big leaking problem was...so got an A1 Cardone pump, new plastic pulley. Dug up some "close enough" O-rings, there were 3 needed for the solenoid section, one for the reservoir. And put synthetic fluid in there as well. The pulley wound up being misaligned for some reason, too far inward by about 1/32 inch. But race day was coming up, needed some road tests. Oh, and the gremlins, we seem to have caught one of 'em. No matter how careful you are to recheck everything, there's always one that sneaks in when you're not looking and loosens a clamp. That one turned an ordinary coupler into a pretty good BOV. Road tests revealed the boost was back, almost peaking at 15 psi, and no fluid leaks. But, there was a chirping noise creeping in from somewhere by the end of the day. (had the gremlin relocated ?)

Saturday morning, loaded car for the track, started it up and woah, big time chirping, squeeling from the PS pump. Quieted down a lot when warmed up, but still there at 2k + rpm.

So got to the track, changed tires, cooled engine, ready to race, and.... raindrops started, announcer calls off the event...Which was good in a way, because about that time somebody told me they were only going to run 1/8 miles and that would have really set me off. Always had been 1/4 tests before along with 1/8 trials.

Next Saturday is the final Test/Tune/Fun racing meet, so will try to get some tuning in the next couple days.... And oh yeah, change that freaking PS pump again, what'sup with that? ....

gremlins ;)

Holy hell dude.... you must be in for one hell of a run 'cuz I think you've paid your dues. BOV... really man, all this over a bloody clamp ahahhahaa

My 3.4 DOHC has that chirp issue. New belt, works great for a week or less. Its an alignment issue I think, because its a 96 alt on a 93 engine but I dunno. It goes away completely at all RPM once warmed up. Just throwing that out there.

Ben on my build, the 3400, would chirp and do same as yours. Moved to a gatorback belt and all issues gone for last three years that I had it. Also, I never found a tensioner that could hold anything other than an original GM one

Agreed on that one, I never use anything but GM tensioners, can't stand aftermarket ones, plus the move the ratchet hole which makes it even harder to access. If I ever have to take one of those off, I just put a GM one back on so I don't have to mess with it.

di-electric grease makes a good belt lube. generously cover about 4" on both sides of the belt, and that usually fixes most belt noises.

mine did the same thing after i deleted ac completely. and ran a smaller belt with a beretta idler pulley. few weeks was chirp free, then cold start would chirp until engine was warm. then few weeks after that, would chirp at all rpms. Milzy told me to try di electric grease (as he suggested to you above) do it. i did mine about 4-5 days ago and not a chirp since.

This chirping was from the PS pump, I put another one in last night. Ran it today for about 10 miles. Just some whining noise which should disappear.

After battery disconnected overnight, ran it yesterday for about 15 minutes (IFR=34, LS1 MAF, Histo shows LTFT avg.) :



all that good cold air going to waste :(

Can't believe I was actually on the phone a couple weeks ago talking to the Magnuson rep about a TVS 1900. It's just a little bigger than the MP90 in each dimension. Not sure of the weight difference. Oh, well, not doing that anytime soon anyway, plenty here to keep busy. :p

Brother B... I think its time dude....

Edit... maybe some 60lb injectors are in order first though...lol, 'cuz your beatin' those like a red headed step child bud!!

Little over 4* KR I see ;)

Haha it still whines more than it should, but now after a few hard launches at da track, it's leaking again from the solenoid fitting....and the big radiator hoses pulled loose and leaked a bit.....

I think it's getting back to normal :p

LOL... aint modding fun bro! And sleepy, that is 0.4* KR, he's a degree or less it looks like and in a 3400 that is very good actually. Ive seen bone stock with up to 8* in these things. In most platforms I would not want to see any KR but these are so sensitive that I would not be bothered with a degree or so in one. A lot of factors will equate to "False KR" in a v6... now if it is audible, completely different story. You would want to pull timing right away if you can actually hear the "ping" when it knocks

The .4 degrees is where the cursor line is highlighted. It's slightly higher a little before that, looks like a little over a degree, maybe 2. It also happened right when he hit the throttle, so it could be false knock from the mounts or something, but it could be real, you just need more scans to tell. Anyways, anything less than 1 is nothing to complain about.

How much boost does that have? Timing looks a little aggressive if boost is up there and you're running 93 octane.

Built engine from WOT-Tech is in the works! However, there is no hurry on that, since I need more time to do some unfinished projects and completely destroy the old engine. Up next is improving the SC mounts and cleaning up the flaws of, and porting the castings:



Big mismatch on both sides there

That worked out nicely !!

Lookin' good B!

"new and improved" SC mount:

Can't tell too much there, but got about 1/4 inch more hood clearance. The driveshaft sits about where the one did on Magnuson's original MP62 kit.....



And here is a plaster mold to make a custom coupler pipe to the UIM:



Tested the ported inlet/outlets today, and did get a couple more psi boost. Hit 13-14 psi, and over a broader rpm range. Yay

Since I plan to install one on my other car, I say yeah.