So can't get a new PS pump, only reman units.... can't get the variable assist solenoid at all, which is where the big leaking problem was...so got an A1 Cardone pump, new plastic pulley. Dug up some "close enough" O-rings, there were 3 needed for the solenoid section, one for the reservoir. And put synthetic fluid in there as well. The pulley wound up being misaligned for some reason, too far inward by about 1/32 inch. But race day was coming up, needed some road tests. Oh, and the gremlins, we seem to have caught one of 'em. No matter how careful you are to recheck everything, there's always one that sneaks in when you're not looking and loosens a clamp. That one turned an ordinary coupler into a pretty good BOV. Road tests revealed the boost was back, almost peaking at 15 psi, and no fluid leaks. But, there was a chirping noise creeping in from somewhere by the end of the day. (had the gremlin relocated ?)

Saturday morning, loaded car for the track, started it up and woah, big time chirping, squeeling from the PS pump. Quieted down a lot when warmed up, but still there at 2k + rpm.

So got to the track, changed tires, cooled engine, ready to race, and.... raindrops started, announcer calls off the event...Which was good in a way, because about that time somebody told me they were only going to run 1/8 miles and that would have really set me off. Always had been 1/4 tests before along with 1/8 trials.

Next Saturday is the final Test/Tune/Fun racing meet, so will try to get some tuning in the next couple days.... And oh yeah, change that freaking PS pump again, what'sup with that? ....

gremlins ;)

Holy hell dude.... you must be in for one hell of a run 'cuz I think you've paid your dues. BOV... really man, all this over a bloody clamp ahahhahaa

My 3.4 DOHC has that chirp issue. New belt, works great for a week or less. Its an alignment issue I think, because its a 96 alt on a 93 engine but I dunno. It goes away completely at all RPM once warmed up. Just throwing that out there.

Ben on my build, the 3400, would chirp and do same as yours. Moved to a gatorback belt and all issues gone for last three years that I had it. Also, I never found a tensioner that could hold anything other than an original GM one

Agreed on that one, I never use anything but GM tensioners, can't stand aftermarket ones, plus the move the ratchet hole which makes it even harder to access. If I ever have to take one of those off, I just put a GM one back on so I don't have to mess with it.

di-electric grease makes a good belt lube. generously cover about 4" on both sides of the belt, and that usually fixes most belt noises.

mine did the same thing after i deleted ac completely. and ran a smaller belt with a beretta idler pulley. few weeks was chirp free, then cold start would chirp until engine was warm. then few weeks after that, would chirp at all rpms. Milzy told me to try di electric grease (as he suggested to you above) do it. i did mine about 4-5 days ago and not a chirp since.

This chirping was from the PS pump, I put another one in last night. Ran it today for about 10 miles. Just some whining noise which should disappear.

After battery disconnected overnight, ran it yesterday for about 15 minutes (IFR=34, LS1 MAF, Histo shows LTFT avg.) :



all that good cold air going to waste :(

Can't believe I was actually on the phone a couple weeks ago talking to the Magnuson rep about a TVS 1900. It's just a little bigger than the MP90 in each dimension. Not sure of the weight difference. Oh, well, not doing that anytime soon anyway, plenty here to keep busy. :p

Brother B... I think its time dude....

Edit... maybe some 60lb injectors are in order first though...lol, 'cuz your beatin' those like a red headed step child bud!!

Little over 4* KR I see ;)

Haha it still whines more than it should, but now after a few hard launches at da track, it's leaking again from the solenoid fitting....and the big radiator hoses pulled loose and leaked a bit.....

I think it's getting back to normal :p

LOL... aint modding fun bro! And sleepy, that is 0.4* KR, he's a degree or less it looks like and in a 3400 that is very good actually. Ive seen bone stock with up to 8* in these things. In most platforms I would not want to see any KR but these are so sensitive that I would not be bothered with a degree or so in one. A lot of factors will equate to "False KR" in a v6... now if it is audible, completely different story. You would want to pull timing right away if you can actually hear the "ping" when it knocks

The .4 degrees is where the cursor line is highlighted. It's slightly higher a little before that, looks like a little over a degree, maybe 2. It also happened right when he hit the throttle, so it could be false knock from the mounts or something, but it could be real, you just need more scans to tell. Anyways, anything less than 1 is nothing to complain about.

How much boost does that have? Timing looks a little aggressive if boost is up there and you're running 93 octane.

Built engine from WOT-Tech is in the works! However, there is no hurry on that, since I need more time to do some unfinished projects and completely destroy the old engine. Up next is improving the SC mounts and cleaning up the flaws of, and porting the castings:



Big mismatch on both sides there

That worked out nicely !!

Lookin' good B!

"new and improved" SC mount:

Can't tell too much there, but got about 1/4 inch more hood clearance. The driveshaft sits about where the one did on Magnuson's original MP62 kit.....



And here is a plaster mold to make a custom coupler pipe to the UIM:



Tested the ported inlet/outlets today, and did get a couple more psi boost. Hit 13-14 psi, and over a broader rpm range. Yay

Since I plan to install one on my other car, I say yeah.