very disapointed....

[[ion] C2]

Everywhere, everywhere I've read/heard, manually shifting an automatic will do NOTHING to help your times. The computer can shift much faster than you can, and if you manually shift you risk hitting the limiter, totally destroying your times. If the limiter is set at 6200, as it is, and the computer shifts are 6200, that's the best you can get. Also 3 or D did nothing for me last time I was at the track. I leave it in D.


Tonight I went to the drag strip with my buddy and his Camaro. When we got there they closed the track 10 mins ago due to the light rain. -_- We still found out that I completely smoke his Camaro... >_> Anyways I'll be out to get some real numbers at Friday King of Street (Test & Tune plus Import vs. Domestic racing later on)

[Daytona]

The difference between 3 and D is significant. If you did not notice anything then you were not consistent in your launches or something else negated the difference because it is proven on all types of vehicles that there is a noticeable difference between the 2. For some vehicles it's more significant than others but there is a difference.

As for shifting vs. not shifting, auto transmissions are most commonly set up from the factory to run just shy of peak (if set up correctly) in order to minimize the chance of overstressing the trans and related components. We've all known stock vehicles that are purposely detuned by the factory to protect parts or get that insurance premium exemption. Is it better to leave it in 3rd vs. shifting? Only in the fact that you'll be a lot more consistent in your ETs by letting the car shift. Some trans have adjustable governors to allow you to fine-tune the shift points.

And if you put in a shift kit in the trans your car will be even quicker and just as consistent. Plus shift kits have the added bonus of shifting into the next gear quicker and with less stress on the trans as it doesnt stay at the top of a gear as long.

And I forgot to ask before but are your rims stock or aftermarket? Aftermarket rims, if meant for looks and not performance, are usually heavier than stock and that added spinning weight will slow down the car. It's not the weight similar to weight of something in your trunk but SPINNING WEIGHT. Sure there's the absolute weight difference (14 lbs. vs. 8 lbs., for instance) which matters, but spinning weight magnifies the effect of the added weight.

[blueolds01]

15.7@87mph w/2.34 60'!!! finally 15's. launched at 1000rpm, 60 out, no burnout. THANKS GUYS!

[[ion] C2]

I'm going next Wednesday, supposed to be 50 out. I'll do most of my runs in 3, then.

[Spilner521]

Originally Posted by [ion] C2

Everywhere, everywhere I've read/heard, manually shifting an automatic will do NOTHING to help your times. The computer can shift much faster than you can, and if you manually shift you risk hitting the limiter, totally destroying your times. If the limiter is set at 6200, as it is, and the computer shifts are 6200, that's the best you can get. Also 3 or D did nothing for me last time I was at the track. I leave it in D.

These guys are talking about V6's. You have a 4 cylinder. That means your converter stalls at 2200-2300 rpms, not 1700 like theirs. Also, the transmission on the 4 cylinders shift at the 6500rpm redline everytime except going into 4th, but since you'll never reach 4th in a quarer mile at WOT, manual shifting above redline would be bad. As for leaving it in 3, it might be a good idea. Give it a try and see how it does, and launch at 2000-2200ish.

[[ion] C2]

Haha, I'm a dumbass. I thought I read 2200 for the stock convertor on the 4t40e somewhere. So on the launch, I should hold the revs at 2200 RPM, when I leave, I let off the brake but keep the throttle at its previous position until I start moving then lay it to the floor. (To maintain traction, I think that will work) Last time I was at the track I revved to 1600 RPM then as soon as the 3rd amber hit I let off the brake and laid it down to the floor almost instantly. Hence wheel hoppin madness

[Spilner521]

Originally Posted by [ion] C2

Haha, I'm a dumbass. I thought I read 2200 for the stock convertor on the 4t40e somewhere. So on the launch, I should hold the revs at 2200 RPM, when I leave, I let off the brake but keep the throttle at its previous position until I start moving then lay it to the floor. (To maintain traction, I think that will work) Last time I was at the track I revved to 1600 RPM then as soon as the 3rd amber hit I let off the brake and laid it down to the floor almost instantly. Hence wheel hoppin madness

Yeah hold it around 2200, then let off the brake and slowly put your right foot to the floor instead of immediately mashing the gas. It'll catch traction and take off like a rocket. It's the same way I launch mine and it's ridiculous how hard you can launch, and how quickly you take off. If you immediately mash the gas, you get wheel spin and, like you said, wheel hop, which are both bad if you're trying to run a quick quarter mile.

[01silveralero]

Originally Posted by Redog

16.3 is actually in range for a totally stock 3400 Alero.

Lauching at 2200 RPM's really doesn't help and kills the tranny. I blew a chuck off my tranny and it cost me $2 grand to fix.

Lower tire pressure to 28 ~ 25, lauch at 1000, do a decent burnout nothing too big but do it in 2nd gear. Drive the track in 3rd gear.

If you have an intake, remove the driver's side headlight for better airflow, but only if you have an intake.

The DHP will not help you much. It's one of those things that benfits you if you have a few mods. Intake and exhaust is always a good start.

Dump the spare, jack and your sub, run with 1/4 tank or less

ill admit this only time i ever ran 16.3 was with no third gear

[blueolds01]

Originally Posted by 01silveralero

ill admit this only time i ever ran 16.3 was with no third gear

theres a confidence booster!

your trap speed was 87mph just like mine, if i got a better 60' could i get into low 15's?

[Daytona]

Originally Posted by blueolds01

15.7@87mph w/2.34 60'!!! finally 15's. launched at 1000rpm, 60 out, no burnout. THANKS GUYS!

Congrats!!!

Originally Posted by Spilner521

These guys are talking about V6's. You have a 4 cylinder. That means your converter stalls at 2200-2300 rpms, not 1700 like theirs. Also, the transmission on the 4 cylinders shift at the 6500rpm redline everytime except going into 4th, but since you'll never reach 4th in a quarer mile at WOT, manual shifting above redline would be bad. As for leaving it in 3, it might be a good idea. Give it a try and see how it does, and launch at 2000-2200ish.

You are correct.

[adam45356]

Ok this is weired but i live in Ohio i had a short ram intake perforce plugs and wires my car whoud run a 16.5 i put that stock intake back on with a k7n drop in and i can run 15.22 all day now. the aftermarket intake made my car significantly slower, with the intake it couldest even chirp the tires stock intake it will turn them to liquid. can this be explained?

[blueolds01]

wow, what was the temp out side when you were racing both days? i might have to put my stock intake on in the spring....

[Alon Alero]

That is weird. I hope my filter doesn't slow me as well...

[Daytona]

Originally Posted by adam45356

Ok this is weired but i live in Ohio i had a short ram intake perforce plugs and wires my car whoud run a 16.5 i put that stock intake back on with a k7n drop in and i can run 15.22 all day now. the aftermarket intake made my car significantly slower, with the intake it couldest even chirp the tires stock intake it will turn them to liquid. can this be explained?

Could be 1 of 2 things:

1) Not sure what ram intake you used but it's possible that you are drawing in more engine-heated air than colder exteiror air with it. That'll certainly slow you down.

2) You could have had bad plugs or wires, or your plugs weren't gapped right.

[Alon Alero]

Originally Posted by Daytona

Could be 1 of 2 things:

1) Not sure what ram intake you used but it's possible that you are drawing in more engine-heated air than colder exteiror air with it. That'll certainly slow you down.

2) You could have had bad plugs or wires, or your plugs weren't gapped right.

So a Wai does slow u down or not?

I have the filter sitting very close to where the original box was sitting. is that bad? (on the 3400 engine)

And which plugs are u talking about?

[[ion] C2]

It shouldn't..

[Daytona]

Saw your filter pics. In regards to your WAI set-up, what Redog and xbxradxsx vbmenu_register("postmenu_320818", true); said about your set-up is correct. You don't get the full benefits of WAI with your current set-up, but should be okay for now and shouldn't be slowing you down (barring any other issues internally with your MAF sensor or other intake internals).

With Adam's set-up, there could have been a problem with a minor gap in the piping (due to improper fit) or an obstruction internally within his set-up.

As for your plugs, I'm referring to your spark plugs. You should remove them one at a time and check the spark point on each to make sure they look clean - not too black, not too white. If they are black or white your engine is experiencing too rich or too lean a setting and needs to be retuned. Also use a gap gauge to check and make sure the gap spacing is correct on all 6 of the plugs. I don't recall the exact gap requirement for our car (anyone? Redog?) but incorrect sizing can create problems with you not getting enough spark to a cylinder.

As for Adam's car, now that I went back and reread the whole thread, plugs are definitely not his problem. Not sure I thought at first that it could be. His issue is definitely with a leak or obstruction in his "performance set-up" or his drawing too hot an air mix relative to his stock set-up.

[Redog]

I believe the correct gap is .060

[adam45356]

i found that the problem is that the pipe that connects to the throttle body is round and the tb is oval, now my question if i buy the doctor speed intake is it oval to match the throttle body

[[ion] C2]

umm.. no.. that's why one uses silicone couplers, which form to the shape of the two pieces you connect. the fact that the throttle body is slighly oblong should not cause ANY noticeable problems.