Front Hub / Wheel Bearing

[undersc0re]

I have a picture for the people that want to know what exactly they are going to have to replace.

Attachment 5673

[Beholder88]

The bearing I bought doesn't look like that one. It doesn't have the larger hole between the wheel studs. I'm pretty sure that the bolts go in from the rear on our vehicles.

[Ryan from Ohio]

Update

Well once again one or maybe both bearings went out. TO recap these were cheap chinese made replacement from E Bay for about $100 for both shipped.

I would avoid these. One failed in about a month. Now 6 months later somethings afoot.

Today I went on the hunt. When it comes to tapered roller bearings there is two BIG names, Timken and SKF.

Advanced Auto only carries no named Chinese ones. Dont bother with them!

O'Reily's/Murray's carries SKF hubs- and its cheaper than most other retail ones @ $115.99 THis is a 2 year warranty also.

Included with the hub was an updated spindle nut! And the proper torque specs!

I will attach pics soon!

[Ryan from Ohio]

[cherrington17]

Anywhere else that carries those?? I have neither of those local to me, and ur post is VERY intriguing....

Great find

[lonnie]

Good info Ryan!!

[clutch1]

That's a lot of torque no matter how you look at it, holy shizza.

[Ryan from Ohio]

Heres where you start...



Make sure you have a 35mm deep well and a 1/2" breaker barand a set of nuts, your going to need them.




Nuts!!!???

















Thats what all has tocome off to get to the wheel bearing. 2 bolts to pull caliper off, 2 bolts to pull brake pad mounting off, 3 bolts on wheel bearing.

13mm 6 point stuby socket, 1 3" extension, 1 6" extension, 12mm 6 point, 5/8" open end wrench, 35mm Deep Well Scoket w/1/2 breaker and finally a BFHammer...And about 1 hour of time.

Unfortunately I must of picked the wrong side. THe bearing did feel bad though, so maybe both went...

[lonnie]

take a pic of a bad bearing

[dragon8807]

Originally Posted by Ryan from Ohio

Heres where you start...



Make sure you have a 35mm deep well and a 1/2" breaker barand a set of nuts, your going to need them.




Nuts!!!???

















Thats what all has tocome off to get to the wheel bearing. 2 bolts to pull caliper off, 2 bolts to pull brake pad mounting off, 3 bolts on wheel bearing.

13mm 6 point stuby socket, 1 3" extension, 1 6" extension, 12mm 6 point, 5/8" open end wrench, 35mm Deep Well Scoket w/1/2 breaker and finally a BFHammer...And about 1 hour of time.

Unfortunately I must of picked the wrong side. THe bearing did feel bad though, so maybe both went...

nice info ryan, this will help me out when i do both of mine

[Ryan from Ohio]

The bad bearing looks just like a new bearing but theres surface rust on everything.

There is no visual indication it is bad.

[lonnie]

So in the third pic on the first page where the spindle is hanging out is that whole thing the bearing?....I see a sensor connection on the bottom right of the pic...so I'm guessing that its the whole assembly?

[Beholder88]

That connection is just where the hub plugs in. The bearing has been removed in that picture.

[lonnie]

Originally Posted by Beholder88

That connection is just where the hub plugs in. The bearing has been removed in that picture.

Thank You! Anyone got a pic of the hub bearing assembly..never seen one!

[Ryan from Ohio]

[cherrington17]

my bearings are still good... is it possible to just get the new nut?

[Beholder88]

Why do you need just a new nut, did you, bust-a-nut?

[cherrington17]

no, for the reason ryan posted above. its quite possible that the old nut gm used, is whats causing premature wearing of our bearings.

i'd swap both, if i knew where to get them.

[Ryan from Ohio]

rockauto has a revised nut.

[Beholder88]

I got the new version with my Timken bearing.