Rough Starting - Page 3

cherrington17 · 01-28-2010, 11:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rustyballs_69

There is a guy on grandamgt.com that has some fuel rails with injectors for sale for like 25 plus shipping. It would be cheaper but the car maybe down longer waiting on the parts. A shop is gonna rip you a new ahoe, injectors aren't cheap.

http://grandamgt.com/forum/showthread.php?t=82032

the guy thats doing it, always does it for cheap. (parts and labor are usually less then the normal full labor cost)

I explained to him that the engine is already torn apart, and the fuel rail is off.. then the injector problems. He laughed and said he'd figure it out. Hes a great guy..

... i miss my car already. i spent the evening driving my g/f's explorer... which is very poorly illuminated.

rustyballs_69 · 01-29-2010, 12:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cherrington17

the guy thats doing it, always does it for cheap. (parts and labor are usually less then the normal full labor cost)

I explained to him that the engine is already torn apart, and the fuel rail is off.. then the injector problems. He laughed and said he'd figure it out. Hes a great guy..

... i miss my car already. i spent the evening driving my g/f's explorer... which is very poorly illuminated.

While the car is at the shop put some leds in the explorer.

cherrington17 · 01-29-2010, 12:48 PM

i ordered some... but i think they got lost in the mail. (she wants pink lighting)

its been 3.5 weeks..

rustyballs_69 · 01-29-2010, 01:00 PM

I would say there are lost then.

Nate's Alero · 01-29-2010, 01:02 PM

LEDS? mine took a month

cherrington17 · 03-02-2010, 02:29 PM

any reason logical reason why when the car tries to turn over (not frequently at all, but just did today... damn fuel pump pause) my locks lock/unlock about 3x quickly?

Kilroy · 03-02-2010, 07:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cherrington17

any reason logical reason why when the car tries to turn over (not frequently at all, but just did today... damn fuel pump pause) my locks lock/unlock about 3x quickly?

Low battery does weird things. Had this happen to me.

cherrington17 · 03-02-2010, 07:34 PM

definitely not a low battery. with the key at "On" i have 12.2V. new yellow top.

any other ideas?

clutch1 · 03-02-2010, 11:58 PM

Dunno if it was mentioned, but bcm/pcm/enginebay/body grounds.. have they been checked?

cherrington17 · 03-03-2010, 12:16 AM

pcm, no. engine bay, yes. body, no.

if i knew where to look for all of those.... then i'd be much better off.

clutch1 · 03-03-2010, 01:05 PM

Dunno if it tells ground locations here:
http://www.aleromod.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19347

Body is usually near the kickpanels, behind the plastic piece, usually a couple under the middle/console of the dash, one behind the cluster sometimes.

BCM is under the right side of the dash, right? Do a drop test on the ground wire/s... look for .0X volts from the ground on the connector to the battery neg post (must be plugged in, key on), do the same for the PCM as well.

Few things to try for ya, good luck!

cherrington17 · 03-06-2010, 08:17 AM

Little update. I got more of a diagnosis now. When it doesn't turn over, it seems like the car goes from ACC-ON fine, then as soon as I turn to start it... it goes back to ACC except trying to start the car from there. (Like the ON gets disconnected)

I figured this out because the radio stays on, the doors unlock, and the gauges shut off. Everything the car does when u turn from ON back to ACC.

Any ideas? If its the ignition cylinder... I'm gonna need a how to, on push button starting...
I don't know anything about how the ignition works... what does ACC connect to... what does ON connect to? Etc. Someone gimme a lesson.

Nate's Alero · 03-06-2010, 09:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cherrington17

Little update. I got more of a diagnosis now. When it doesn't turn over, it seems like the car goes from ACC-ON fine, then as soon as I turn to start it... it goes back to ACC except trying to start the car from there. (Like the ON gets disconnected)

I figured this out because the radio stays on, the doors unlock, and the gauges shut off. Everything the car does when u turn from ON back to ACC.

Any ideas? If its the ignition cylinder... I'm gonna need a how to, on push button starting...
I don't know anything about how the ignition works... what does ACC connect to... what does ON connect to? Etc. Someone gimme a lesson.

still doing it?

cherrington17 · 03-06-2010, 10:27 AM

not flooding... but the electrical issue still exists.

key in-->ACC (radio turns on) --> ON (car lights up) --> ACC doors unlock lights turn off.

key in-->ACC (radio turns on) --> ON (car lights up) --> Start = gauges turn off, doors unlock 3-4 times. (click click click, repeatedly unlocking)

no idea what it could be.. but its not very often that it does it.. maybe once a week. And the engine doesn't smell like gas anymore... so its not anything other then electrical issues. The car turns over great most times (except for this problem) and everything is running great.

clutch1 · 03-06-2010, 12:23 PM

Pull the ign switch and open it up to see what it looks like!

Dunno EXACTLY how, but it can't be too hard.. remove lock cyl and see what's behind it. On a GA I was workin on (98'.. so not new style) it was on the opposite side of the column, two little screws and it came right off.

Might see that the contacts are are burnt up or something, causing bad contacts.

Before ya do that could always go ot the ign wires are test the "start" wire (gotta catch it when it's happening) because it sounds like that's when the issue comes up? See if it's gettin a 12v, or if you get something crazy bouncing all over and whatnot.

Go to that wiring diagram thread with the library link on here (forget what it is..) and IIRC the wiring diagrams also show what fuses the components are fed by and will say always hot, hot in run, etc.

cherrington17 · 03-06-2010, 12:34 PM

I don't even know what wire could lead to that kinda problem.... when it does it, it doesn't start.. just turns over endlessly. When it doesn't do it.. it starts immediately.

There have been a few other times (very rare) where i get in, turn it to ON and the fuel pump doesn't prime. I turn it off, back to ON and it does. So clearly, its a bad connection somewhere. You think its IN the ignition cylinder, at the ON location?

Maybe a dirty contact so when i slide past it, the switch behind it isn't getting proper contact?

clutch1 · 03-06-2010, 03:08 PM

Ohhh, I thought you meant it won't even crank when it has the issue!
Humm.. that's interesting. Could be at the ON connection in the cyl.. once in a while just not making contact or something. Or else you could check the fuel pump relay.. fuel pump ground (dunno exactly where that is),
It'd be interesting to know, when it cranks but doesn't start, does the fuel pump prime then or not? If you're ambitious, next time it happens check the fuel pump power/ground, as well as perhaps the relay operation.

Tough one, I'm just kinda crap shootin here.

cherrington17 · 03-06-2010, 03:44 PM

99% of the time, the fuel pump is priming, yes.

cherrington17 · 03-13-2010, 02:13 PM

well.. i'm still "testing" but i tore it all apart, got the ignition cylinder free from the dash... and noticed my gauge lighting wires were running directly behind it. (possibly against the back of it) i moved them to the side, and haven't had a problem since.

can't see how or why... but it seems to be the fix.

clutch1 · 03-13-2010, 04:38 PM

Once in a while might've tweaked something juuuust enough to cause a problem?? Weird though.. hope it stays fixed!!