03-22-2010, 11:06 AM
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#21
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Let's Play Army!
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Lockport, NY
Posts: 8,475
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maybe fill your washer fluid? lol
really, I have no idea now. I'm sure if you can get your car hooked up to a computer (code reader, maybe even hptuner??) you can see wtf is going on, and maybe develop a fix from that.
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Originally Posted by black
holy crap, i just farted at work and the whole office stinks!!!!
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RIP to my Alero @ 112000 miles. COD: thrown rod. TOD: 430pm, Dec19, 2011.
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03-22-2010, 11:11 AM
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#22
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GX Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Princeton, MN
Posts: 96
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the hoses arent connected yet Lol! i brought it to the shop here in town and they didnt know so they refered me to a guy that specializes in transmissions lmao
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03-22-2010, 01:42 PM
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#23
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GLS member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: wisconsin
Posts: 2,733
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Hmmmm.
Does this trans have any external controls??? Throttle cable/vacuum modulator??? Those could cause issues, but those are usually harsh shift issues.
If it's electronically controlled, I would suspect a sesnor on the new engine has issues.
Check the MAP, TPS, and MAF first off... basically any load calculating sensors..
Sounds like the comp isn't realizing it is as loaded down as it really is, and isn't making it shift as such.. That'd be my bet.
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03-22-2010, 01:48 PM
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#24
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GX Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Princeton, MN
Posts: 96
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the comp thing makes sense, but it had this problem with the old engine too. theres no cable from the transmission, the mechanic i brought it to thought that was the problem but when he started looking around he was like uhhh theres no cable...
ill try doing what weasel said to do and disconnect the battery for awhile. Ill be amazed if it works, because i figured the battery would be disconnected for 2+ days while the new engine was being dropped in. ORRRR maybe the engine out of the sunfire had the SAME problem. and that engine is bad too  lol!
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03-22-2010, 01:58 PM
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#25
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GLS member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: wisconsin
Posts: 2,733
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Ohhh, it did it before, too, eh?
Sounds like a scan tool would really help... most let you record data, would be VERY VERY helpful to plug it in and take it out and do some WOT pulls and record what the sensors all said and what the computer was telling the trans to do and so forth.
If you don't have one I'd suggest finding someone who does and who can interpret the data it'll give you.
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03-22-2010, 02:13 PM
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#26
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GX Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Princeton, MN
Posts: 96
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if you have one and live in western wisconsin i could be there in an hour. lol. I dont know anyone that has one, i know carquest does it for free but im nowhere near a carquest lol. battery is unhooked right now was out there about 20 mins and took it off quick. went to put my toolbag back in the trunk...couldnt figure out why it wouldnt open when i pushed the button LOL then I realized what i was doing and was glad no one was watching me 
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03-22-2010, 04:05 PM
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#27
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GLS member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: wisconsin
Posts: 2,733
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I ain't got one  Wish I did...
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03-22-2010, 04:18 PM
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#28
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GX Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Princeton, MN
Posts: 96
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Yeah resetting the computer didnt work. 
get one and let me borrow it!
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03-22-2010, 07:37 PM
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#29
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Jack-Wagon
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 3,834
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@C2 - you thinking clogged cat?
Lemme see if I can drag gectek in on this......
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03-22-2010, 10:45 PM
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#30
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GLS member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: wisconsin
Posts: 2,733
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If the cat's clogged that's SUPER easy to check.
Alright, get a vacuum gauge (harbor freight, $7 prolly). attach it to a manifold vacuum source (T it into one if needed).
Start the car.. should see 18-21"Hg.. does it read that? Ok good.
Now, tape it to your windshield so you can drive it. Find a nice big hill, and at STEADY throttle about half way, climb the hill. Car will slow down, of course, but keep the throttle steady.
If your cat's clogged enough to cause driveability problems, you will see the vacuum gauge read lower and lower (needle drops from 18" to 10", etc) as exhaust backs up into the manifold.
If it passes that, the cat's flowing freely.
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03-23-2010, 12:37 AM
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#31
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GX Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Princeton, MN
Posts: 96
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I dont think its a clogged cat because I can take the shift knob and put it into 1 and accelerate and the rpms will go up I just have to put it into 2 before redline then to 3, then to D to get into overdrive. ( I have to do this every time I merge -_- )
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03-23-2010, 05:42 AM
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#32
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Jack-Wagon
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 3,834
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just get the thing scanned for codes. Not all transmission codes are going to trip the lights.
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03-29-2010, 01:10 AM
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#33
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GX Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Princeton, MN
Posts: 96
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well Im bringing my car to a transmission specialist on tuesday so hopefully I can get this thing figured out. I wonder if its some sort of sensor... Like a speed sensor or something or map/tps sensor
edit - TPS Sensor was 100% dead and the car was running in a "default" mode, where the transmission puts max pressure through the lines because it cant tell what the rpms are at, 30 dollars for a new one and hopefully itll be good as new, going to pick up the part after i eat my hamburger helper, then getting the car to go throw that in there!
Last edited by Spike440 : 03-30-2010 at 01:24 PM.
Reason: update
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03-30-2010, 06:57 PM
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#34
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GX Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Princeton, MN
Posts: 96
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Fail  wasnt the TPS. Stuck once again.
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03-31-2010, 12:31 AM
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#35
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GLS member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: wisconsin
Posts: 2,733
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Is the new TPS any good? Cheap replacements parts that are brand new have been known to not work good enough.
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03-31-2010, 12:52 AM
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#36
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GX Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Princeton, MN
Posts: 96
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I got the mastercraft ( i think ) brand. Has a 1 year warranty on it lol. Im wondering, is there a reason why it would say the TPS isnt working, maybe something with the ECU or even the cable that goes from the TPS to the throttle body?
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