New Issue from LIMG Repair

[myowneq]

Hello again,

I've been replacing the lower manifold intake gasket. I used a Haynes manual and took it down to replace the gasket, then put it back together. I've had some minor issues.

So there is an Oring in the inlet fuel line. No clue where the old one got away to. So that' problem is fixed. In addition to the fuel leak after that one. And the coolant line oring that busted...

So here's where I stand now. I have the engine all back together. I can start it but it's a very rough idle / missing. Not sure which it is. It also doesn't stay running long, though I wouldn't want it to with that sound.

I've double checked all the spark plug wires and they're going to the correct cylinders. I've pulled three of the six plugs and they look ok. I also checked the front three cylinders compression. Those three +/-5 around 125.

I did find something along the upper intake manifold. It's along the back in between the left and center ports. It looks like some place a hose would hook up. I have no parts left over and see nothing hanging around. I cant seem to find a picture regard what might go there. Any ideas?

Can you think of something I should think about that I might have missed in my repairs that would result in this problem? If needed, I can make a video and post it up.

Thanks,
Timothy

[Mike The Canadian]

Sounds like your talking about the brake booster line? It should be a rubber hose that comes from your brake master cylinder. I could however be wrong. This would definatley cause the car to run like shit (It's where I seafoamed my Bu from).

Post a pic of your UIM or the thing your talking about to be sure?

[clutch1]

Looked at a pic.. that's def the big nipple for the booster hose to go on.

I can't believe it runs with such a huge vacuum leak.

Hook the booster to it and it'll run fine.

[Ryan from Ohio]

Why do people disassemble the fuel rail???

BY the fuel rail quick disconnect tool and take the entire rail off!

[zzyzzx]

Originally Posted by Ryan from Ohio

Why do people disassemble the fuel rail???

I did it because I figured that dealing with 2 fuel rail gaskets was a safer bet than 6 fuel injector gaskets.

[myowneq]

Ok, so the vacuum line to the brake booster fixed that problem. That hose was buried so far behind the engine, I'da never found if ya'll hadn't said something.

Of course, nothing can go right the first time.

With that issue now out of the way, the car now has a smooth idle, but I can clearly hear something not right. And I'm willing to bet it has to do with the connecting rods. It sounds as if one of them is loose. There's a rickety noise coming from the engine. and that's the only moving piece I took off.

I left the heads on, but removed the valve covers. I took off the alternator, but that's on tight and so is the belt. I didn't know better to not take off the throttle body, but this noise isn't from there. I've never known for sure what a loose valve stem sounds like, but this sounds like it to me.

I guess I'm gonna need all new gasket kits to try this again. All because the FIRST time this happened, the mechanic didn't put in Felpro like I told him to.

So, here I go again.

I'm not sure what you mean by dissassemble the fuel rails. All I do is unscrew the pipe and pull it out. Then I remove the fuel rail and injectors as one unit. Is that what you are talking about?

Thanks for all the information. I really appreciate it.

Timothy

[zzyzzx]

Please be more descriptive about the "rickety noise". Don't expect it to sound right for the first couple of minutes.

[Ryan from Ohio]

The fuel rail has two lines going to it, there are quick disconnects down there... Simply buy the tool and can disconnect each one in 30 seconds... Then unbolt the fuel rail, spray WD40 at the injector/upper intake and pull them out. Reverse to install.

WD40 makes rubber/steel sliding like KY lube on...

Sounds like the rocker arms were not torqued properly. You want to torque them with the pressure off the rods.

[myowneq]

***As of this posting, the video is still being processed. So give it a minute please...

A video of what my car sounds like...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ss0cS71DOF4

[Ryan from Ohio]

Sounds like the rocker arms are not torqued properly OR you have one in the wrong place and its now bent.

Just take the valve covers off to torque them down properly. If its still doing it take the rods out to make sure they are in the right place and straight.

Im assuming your car didnt sound like that before?

[myowneq]

You would be correct, it didn't sound like that before.

I'm 99% certain I put them back in the same place they came out of. I was very detailed about those items.

So torqueing and hopefully not a bent rod.

Do I need to remove the tension before torqueing?

Thanks,
Timothy

[Ryan from Ohio]

YES.

Ive said it multiple times.

Take plugs out and rotate engine until there is no pressure on the rods, then torque to spec. Its the ONLY way to properly torque them. Hopefully you didnt damage anything.

[clutch1]

I did one once and wasn't paying attention, the rocker arm was a tiny bit sideways, not centered on the valve. Make a ticking noise. Pop the valve covers off and check it out, takes like half an hour, no problem.

[Ttop191]

Originally Posted by Ryan from Ohio

YES.

Ive said it multiple times.

Take plugs out and rotate engine until there is no pressure on the rods, then torque to spec. Its the ONLY way to properly torque them. Hopefully you didn't damage anything.

to add to this, the piston has to be at TDC of the compression stroke, space the arms as necessary with a feeler gauge, torque the nuts down, and go in firing order to keep things semi-organized

[zzyzzx]

For anyone else who hasn't done this yet, this situation is easily avoided:

http://www.aleromod.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30730