10-17-2011, 12:24 PM
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#1
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636 whp
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: AZ
Posts: 11,913
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Coolant Leak
Lame, I sprung an external leak somewhere. Not too big of a deal but annoying. Probably my fault for expediting the failure of whatever's leaking because I did a hardcore awesome high RPM stunt when the thermostat was closed and engine was cold.
Of course it's in the hardest to reach spot of anything.. seems to make wetness on the ground between the oil pan and trans pan in the center of the car but toward the passenger side.. It's probably the gasket to the block or to the water pump, on the thermostat housing (#2). Would be cool if it was the thermostat seal (at #3), I felt like replacing my thermostat anyway.
Just bitchin'
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10-17-2011, 03:50 PM
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#2
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GLS member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: moncton, nb
Posts: 1,307
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are you sure its not the metal hosing that goes to the t-stat? mine just recently did that about 2 months ago I thought it was my waterpump also but it was a leak on the metal piping to the t-stat. just best bet is to jack it up poor water in the coolant res and look underneath and see where its pouring from
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10-17-2011, 03:51 PM
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#3
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GLS member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: moncton, nb
Posts: 1,307
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and btw if it is #3 its not really a seal as the seal is on the t-stat itself not like most other seals
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10-17-2011, 03:58 PM
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#4
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636 whp
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: AZ
Posts: 11,913
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robalero
are you sure its not the metal hosing that goes to the t-stat? mine just recently did that about 2 months ago I thought it was my waterpump also but it was a leak on the metal piping to the t-stat. just best bet is to jack it up poor water in the coolant res and look underneath and see where its pouring from
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It could be, I'll know more when I look hopefully. I think it's probably the rusty metal coolant pipe that goes under the pan and up to the thermostat. I had a sketchy feeling last time I replaced my thermostat that it was dirty and wouldn't seal well, but yeah that pipe looked pretty bad. That would be awesome if that's what needs to be replaced.
Quote:
Originally Posted by robalero
and btw if it is #3 its not really a seal as the seal is on the t-stat itself not like most other seals
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This I know lol.
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10-17-2011, 05:58 PM
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#5
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636 whp
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: AZ
Posts: 11,913
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Definitely not the pipe. It's dry all around that.
The water pump, on the other hand.. is weeping 
I guess I would too after 226,000 miles.
I KEPT SAYING TO MYSELF I should probably do it (during my 3 head gasket jobs) since it's right there... but now I'll have to take apart everything just for this job.
I'm going to go to the track though Friday anyway lol.
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10-17-2011, 06:25 PM
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#6
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GLS member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: moncton, nb
Posts: 1,307
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did ya try the water test anyways? I thought the same on mine as it had a small seepage on the waterpump but still turned out to be that pipe a little bit of brake clean and double checking that spot and no more leaking from there for me....but yea I replaced my t-stat also and no later then a month that dam pipe broke on me too....15 minutes later on the ground and my trusty 8mm and 1/4 rachet and 13mm racheting wrench and were good to go
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10-17-2011, 07:13 PM
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#7
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636 whp
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: AZ
Posts: 11,913
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seriously, the pipe is bone dry and everything around it is too
you can clearly see coolant/oil coming out of the weep hole on the pump in the pictures lol
it also looks just like pictures people have taken on GAGT and JBO when they needed water pumps
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10-17-2011, 07:43 PM
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#8
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GLS member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: moncton, nb
Posts: 1,307
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ain't nothing a good 4 to 5 hours can't fix lol. im guessing your chain is fairly new too? since your there you may as replace it if its old since you do have high mileage on it
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10-17-2011, 07:46 PM
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#9
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636 whp
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: AZ
Posts: 11,913
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nah chain is fine i'll replace the guides though, last time i was in there they had some pretty good scoring
problem is when i repair something on my car, i have a bunch of turbo shit in the way to take off before getting to stock form.. i'm hoping i might be able to do it without taking off the turbo manifold. (wishful thinking)
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10-18-2011, 06:18 AM
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#10
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GLS member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: moncton, nb
Posts: 1,307
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that is wishful thinking lol.
I was in a turbo dodge shadow the other day, its gotten me on the hunt for a spare 2.4L engine for a cheap price so I can build up and slap a turbo on because boost is fun!
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10-18-2011, 12:06 PM
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#11
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Owner
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Joliet, IL
Posts: 19,932
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that sucks. the water pump is a bitch even with the head off. but i learned what to do and not to do when i replaced mine back when i built the top half of motor.
What the pita is getting bothe gaskets (one on block and one for water pump) all lined up and not to move when you put the back housing on.
You will need to remove your manifold to make life easier.
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10-19-2011, 11:50 PM
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#12
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GL Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: las vegas
Posts: 578
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robalero
that is wishful thinking lol.
I was in a turbo dodge shadow the other day, its gotten me on the hunt for a spare 2.4L engine for a cheap price so I can build up and slap a turbo on because boost is fun!
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sell you my engine for $1500
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10-20-2011, 06:16 AM
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#13
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GLS member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: moncton, nb
Posts: 1,307
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$1500 is not what I consider cheap lol
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10-20-2011, 07:32 AM
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#14
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636 whp
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: AZ
Posts: 11,913
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It's already built, so it's cheap. The parts alone to build the engine exceed that amount.. not to mention assembly.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldsman
that sucks. the water pump is a bitch even with the head off.
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yeah FML, i have enough trouble getting to the 3 nuts that hold the pump to the timing cover housing... it's going to be a bitch getting to the ones holding it to the opposite side..
you wanna help me do it? lol
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10-20-2011, 02:35 PM
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#15
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GLS member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: moncton, nb
Posts: 1,307
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yea but that beats the fun out of doing it yourself just throwing in another engine thats pre-built
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10-20-2011, 02:40 PM
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#16
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636 whp
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: AZ
Posts: 11,913
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no it doesn't; the fun part is putting something on that engine to make it go fast and not worrying about it breaking a rod or piston..
put the built engine in, and boost it.. no reason to waste time and money and potentially incorrect assembly when there's a helluva deal on one ready to go
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10-20-2011, 07:02 PM
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#17
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GLS member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: moncton, nb
Posts: 1,307
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not if you including going to pick it up or shipping
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10-20-2011, 07:05 PM
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#18
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636 whp
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: AZ
Posts: 11,913
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shipping really isn't that much
oh woops, forgot you're in Canada
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10-20-2011, 07:25 PM
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#19
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GLS member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: moncton, nb
Posts: 1,307
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and you see my point on that now lol i mean if I really weight the pro's and con's it would probably come up to the same but I really love having my hand into the engine and putting everything in myself
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10-20-2011, 10:20 PM
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#20
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Owner
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Joliet, IL
Posts: 19,932
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Quote:
Originally Posted by [ion] C2
It's already built, so it's cheap. The parts alone to build the engine exceed that amount.. not to mention assembly.
yeah FML, i have enough trouble getting to the 3 nuts that hold the pump to the timing cover housing... it's going to be a bitch getting to the ones holding it to the opposite side..
you wanna help me do it? lol
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LOL........I'll provide phone support.......LOL
Honestly Chris, if you were close by I would give you a hand.
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72 442 "THE BEAST", 99 Alero - OSV Replica w/ original OSV parts, HURST Dual/Gate Shifter
Beware of the BackStabber

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