LED Issues

[XanderWiFi]

I asked this in a different thread but wanted to have specific direction regarding the issue. Here's the story:

Cut out my cubby hole light to wire the gauge overlays, bought a blue LED and electrical wire to solder it back into the original wire. When I was prepping the cubby socket I only had 3/4 of an inch to work with and when I went to strip it for soldering I accidentally pulled all of the outside coating off leaving the bare wire leading into the socket.

Soldered everything up, wrapped it in electrical tape and the LED works but will flicker out with movement where the wire enters the socket. Because the coating was pulled off am I grounding out which is making the light go out?

Any additional info or fixes/solutions would be greatly appreciated.

[happyisthealero]

I dont think he is on this site anymore?1?!

[XanderWiFi]

Now I'm really up shit creek. Went out to see if I could get a better connection to that new light. Disconnected it, reconnected it and now my gauge overlay, shifter light and this light don't work anymore. Anything connected to the grey/black wire for lighting is dead.

I checked fuses pertaining to batt or ign but couldn't find any blown. Is there a specific one? Just spooked because everything worked earlier.

[sleepyalero]

you check both fuse spots on the car? (under hood and driver side dash) if you did, then i have no idea what to tell you.... i wouldnt even know where to begin if i was in your position other then check fuses lol.

[XanderWiFi]

Only the engine bay fuses. Forgot about that other fuse box.

[jhubbz]

I've had this happen before. Check the passenger side fuses. There is an interior lighting fuse, although I forget which number it is. If you splice into your shifter backlight wiring, you should be fine. You can also splice into the illumination wiring off the splice pack that plugs into your stock gauges.

[XanderWiFi]

"Inst LPS" on the passenger side fuse box looks blown. Looks close enough to mean "instrument panel" to mean. Will go out and pick up some extra fuses today.

Soldering question: the wiring that was left over ended up breaking off in the solder. I am going to try to get enough solder into the actual light socket to make it work.

Lessons of learning...

[jhubbz]

I would just go to an oreilly or something and buy a new socket

[XanderWiFi]

The fuse was the culprit.

Do they sell the bulb holders specific for our cars at auto parts store? I always figured that would be something really specific...I will have to check and see because even with uber amount of solder dripped around the remaining line the light still goes out with certain movement.

Have to make sure I disconnect the battery before messing with anything again.

[jhubbz]

They do have gm specific sockets, I'm not sure about the cubby hole though, I doubt it, but you can get really close. You could probably upgrade to a 194 if you wanted to

[XanderWiFi]

I checked with napa and advance auto parts. Nothing for interior light replacement. Only headlights, turn signals, tails etc...So it is off to the junkyard or maybe someone has some extras laying around?

Also, can you direct wire the 74 somehow? It works in the socket, just gets finicky when it gets moved around. No clue what could be shorting it out INSIDE the socket.

[jhubbz]

You can most definitely direct wire, just as long as they are resisted correctly. Then it's just positive to positive and negative to negative. Some LEDs are nonpolarized in which case it wouldn't matter which way you wire them. I think it's nonpolarized anyway...

[XanderWiFi]

http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b....html%23ipanel

I have the 74xHP I believe. Just fold out the metal tabs and solder to them? Never done this before. The how-tos I have googled have LEDs that have longer metal pieces attached to them. I'll try to get a pick up to see what I am working with so I can get better direction on how to take it apart.

[jhubbz]

Most everything from superbrightleds is already resisted, so just make sure to connect the correct leads lol.

[XanderWiFi]

I know it sounds stupid: but how?

Peel back the wires on the LED and solder to them? How do I tell which is ground and which is positive? Unless they're polarized and it doesn't matter...it is these little details I am trying to get info on por favor.

[jhubbz]

I usually keep a 9 volt battery with me whenever I'm doing led work. Just connect one wire of the led to + and one to - and if the led doesn't light up, then switch sides. Then just remember which side is which.

[XanderWiFi]

Awesome suggestion. Used that tip to test the LED, found the +/- sides, soldered the wire on (LED wire was small-hope it holds up), separated and braced the wires with electrical tape. Everything still works.

I have some liquid nails. I was planning to glue it to the top of the cubby hole since the appropriate mount is screwed now. Valid approach? Another material work better?

And where is the actual LED cup holder how to? I can't find that dang thing. Or what was used to create a clear cover? I just want to find a cool way to plug that hole and cover it in a cool way.

[jhubbz]

Some people use hot glue or epoxy to hold them in place. Another thing to consider is liquid electrical tape and/or shrink wrap. It beats the hell out of wrapping wires with tape. With my cup holder, i just drilled a hole in the backside of it instead of the bottom since it would be shining right in my face. Anyway, i taped it in place. I haven't had a problem since and it's been about a year

[XanderWiFi]

I hardwired another 74. It is small enough that I do not have to do any drilling and I do not think it will be bright enough to annoy. I had some epoxy on hand so I put some tape over the hole, held the bulb and filled in the glue around it. Now that it hardened I capped it on top with some more epoxy to keep the bulb safe from liquids.

Thanks again for the help. Once I get it all back together I will put up the completed pictures.

[jhubbz]

Looks real nice! I'll try and get a pic up of mine. (also blue)