02-14-2013, 01:07 AM
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#1
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GX Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: California
Posts: 21
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Cruise Control
Ever since I bought my car I have had an issue with the cruise control. I have to hold the button in for it to work, if I just push the on button, it comes on then it goes off as soon as I let go. I hardly ever use it because of that, my finger gets tired of holding it down. I don't have to hold down the set button or anything else, just the on button. I think it's just the button, so if I just replace it, would that fix it? Or would I have to replace the entire part that connects to the steering wheel?
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02-14-2013, 01:33 AM
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#2
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GX Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: California
Posts: 168
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For my cruise control I turn it on then set it and it stays on. By pressing the on button shouldn't work. At least in mine.
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02-14-2013, 02:00 AM
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#3
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3500 DONE!
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Albany, NY
Posts: 5,915
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You're prob going to have to replace the buttons....which means you disconnect the battery....give it 5-10 minutes to sit (because you have to take the airbag out and they stay active for at least 5 min). Now that you've waited...take the airbag off by taking the two screws out of the back (i think their torque head screws). Pop air bag out and now you can unscrew the buttons and put the new ones in.
__________________
2002 3400 & 3500 GL "Ruby"-->R.I.P. 163k. My first car. Put 130k on her.
2000 3500 GLS "Robin"-->Intake,Headers,Exhaust,H&R springs,KYB AGX,Sway bars,Strut bars and more
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02-14-2013, 05:31 AM
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#4
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GLS member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: indy
Posts: 8,411
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Manwhore sticks a dime in the bottom of his cruise control button because I believe he has the same problem. If you don't feel like replacing it, just stick a dime under the button when you want to use it. Does well. 
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S. . .L. . . E . . .E. . .P. . .Y. . .IS A TRAITOR--HE GOT BORED SO HE SOLD ME AFTER HAVING AN AFFAIR WITH A RICE ROCKET
Oldsnut is my Hero!
Meet Destiny, shes a 2001 Oldsmobile Alero GLS, F40 6MT swap. (#2 of 3)
2/24/14 - 200,000 miles body/motor. 22,300 on F40.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldsnut
He would Plasti Dip his pecker if he could.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tipnitty
A girl touched my Pee Pee. So you can say things are getting pretty serious for me.
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02-14-2013, 09:56 AM
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#5
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GL Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Montgomery,Al
Posts: 308
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Not a bad ideal, my car had it air bags replaced and so i have to hold down the button.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xXManwhoreXx
I could never actually get rid of the alero as much as I hate it some times
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Baby Sandy: 2001 2.4 Grand Am se 1.5 (auto) 32k-119k : Sept.2002-Aug.2010 
Mickey: 2001 Alero GL 2.4 5-speed (Nov. 2010) 109k-???
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02-14-2013, 10:42 AM
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#6
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GLS member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Baltimore, MD USA
Posts: 5,530
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Is there a How on the fix for this? I am wondering if there is a broken piece of plastic or maybe a spring issues here.
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02-14-2013, 11:25 AM
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#8
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GLS member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Kansas
Posts: 2,116
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no how-to...I think you might be correct about the spring issue, however the only fix that I know of is to pull the air bag and replace the switch, or shove something in to hold it on...My button still works but I just leave it on full time in order to minimalize the chances that it will be stuck off
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02-14-2013, 02:11 PM
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#9
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GLS member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Baltimore, MD USA
Posts: 5,530
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RalphP
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Now that I know I can just order a new one off of Rock Auto, I might take mine apart and try to fix it, and not worry too much if it breaks. I would have guessed dealer only or much more expensive than that. That and I suspect that the replacement is just as bad as the original, so if I can make it better, why not try?
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02-14-2013, 02:13 PM
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#10
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GLS member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Baltimore, MD USA
Posts: 5,530
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Slightly cheaper off Amazon and qualifies for free shipping.
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02-14-2013, 02:21 PM
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#11
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GLS member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Baltimore, MD USA
Posts: 5,530
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http://www.instructables.com/id/Fix-...ero-and-Other/
http://www.instructables.com/id/Fix-...-switch-works/
Notice the tiny three-arm paw in the foreground. That is what holds this switch in the "on" position. Notice the white center. It is actually clear and it is an axle that has broken off of the clear plastic block surrounding the white "T"-shaped piece in the very center of the switch assembly. See the yellow text boxes. This little axle is slightly less than 1mm in diameter. Plastic tends to become brittle with age, and it was only 1mm in diameter from the start. That little broken axle is the reason these switches fail.
I deiced to drill into the center of what is left of the axle and glue a new metal axle in the hole. The next step describes how to get the clear plastic block out of the switch assembly so the necessary work can be done to it.
They used part of a small nail to replace a piece of plastic that broke. That's cheaper AND better than using a new part. My Alero only has 37K miles on it and I do use the cruise control and plan on keeping the car for along time, so fixing this would be nice.
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02-14-2013, 09:10 PM
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#12
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GLS member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Tacoma, Washington
Posts: 1,912
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sleepyalero
Manwhore sticks a dime in the bottom of his cruise control button because I believe he has the same problem. If you don't feel like replacing it, just stick a dime under the button when you want to use it. Does well. 
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Mine had the same problem while my dad was still driving the car and he did the same thing. Then he gave the car to me and I drove it around like that until I sold it to my sister with no issues. Here is a pic of what it looks like with a coin holding the cruise control button on.
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2014 Mazda MX-5 Miata Grand Touring Roadster 2.0L I4 (MZR).
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2005 Mazda6 S Wagon 3.0L V6 (MZI) (Sold).
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2010 Chevrolet HHR LT 2.2L I4 (LE8) (Sold).
1999 Oldsmobile Intrigue GX 3.5L Twin Cam V6 (LX5) (Sold).
2001 Oldsmobile Alero GL 2.4L (LD9) (Sold).
Last edited by That01Olds : 09-15-2013 at 06:11 PM.
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02-14-2013, 11:20 PM
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#13
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GLS member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Washington, DC
Posts: 1,460
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I had a worse problem in my Grand Am. The Grand Am's CC is at the bottom of the wheel. It wouldn't work, even if I held it.
There's a plastic pin that falls out of those things. You have to replace the whole assembly, which means taking out the airbag. The screws behind the airbag are T30 I believe (at least in the Grand Am), and are a bitch to take out. If they're not T30, then they're T25.
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1994 Olds Cutlass Supreme
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02-14-2013, 11:28 PM
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#14
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GLS member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: indy
Posts: 8,411
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Damn that shift knob is glossy!
__________________
S. . .L. . . E . . .E. . .P. . .Y. . .IS A TRAITOR--HE GOT BORED SO HE SOLD ME AFTER HAVING AN AFFAIR WITH A RICE ROCKET
Oldsnut is my Hero!
Meet Destiny, shes a 2001 Oldsmobile Alero GLS, F40 6MT swap. (#2 of 3)
2/24/14 - 200,000 miles body/motor. 22,300 on F40.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldsnut
He would Plasti Dip his pecker if he could.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tipnitty
A girl touched my Pee Pee. So you can say things are getting pretty serious for me.
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02-15-2013, 02:57 PM
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#15
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Aleromod part owner
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Far Northeast Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 18,199
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I have to replace mine, too
I have the part, picked it up on eBay for $21 shipped, Buttons work fine, but the lights burned out on the reset/cruise accel buttons
Yes, I'm that anal
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2000 Olds Alero 3400 SFI 14.53 @ 94.93
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02-15-2013, 03:10 PM
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#16
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GX Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Cuyahoga Falls, OH
Posts: 65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sleepyalero
Damn that shift knob is glossy!
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hahaha look like he sprayed the whole thing down with Armor-All.... Looks nice though!!!!
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02-16-2013, 12:18 AM
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#17
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GLS member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Tacoma, Washington
Posts: 1,912
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sleepyalero
Damn that shift knob is glossy!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the1lyden
hahaha look like he sprayed the whole thing down with Armor-All.... Looks nice though!!!!
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Haha yep. I had just finished cleaning the interior when I took that pic and thanks man.
__________________
2017 Volkswagen Jetta S 5-Speed 1.4L Turbocharged I4 (TSI).
2014 Mazda MX-5 Miata Grand Touring Roadster 2.0L I4 (MZR).
__________________________________________________
2005 Mazda6 S Wagon 3.0L V6 (MZI) (Sold).
2013 Mazda3 i Touring Sedan 2.0L I4 (Skyactiv-G) (Sold).
2010 Chevrolet HHR LT 2.2L I4 (LE8) (Sold).
1999 Oldsmobile Intrigue GX 3.5L Twin Cam V6 (LX5) (Sold).
2001 Oldsmobile Alero GL 2.4L (LD9) (Sold).
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05-25-2013, 12:21 PM
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#18
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GLS member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Baltimore, MD USA
Posts: 5,530
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Indestructables say to use a T27 to remove the screws from the back, but I do not see how to do that. My socket is to big to fit into the hole there, and there is not enough clearance. Getting it back in should be at least as fun so I will use the coin or piece of paper for now.
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05-25-2013, 12:45 PM
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#19
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Premier V.I.P. Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Howard, KS
Posts: 1,848
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Its a t27 bit. I always use a 1/4" drive deep socket to hold my bit and it fits through the back of the wheel perfect.
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05-25-2013, 01:33 PM
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#20
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GLS member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Baltimore, MD USA
Posts: 5,530
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 03Sleepr
Its a t27 bit. I always use a 1/4" drive deep socket to hold my bit and it fits through the back of the wheel perfect.
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Indestructbales says that it is a T27, and I do have the bit. I will have to try that 1/4" deep drive method when I make my next attempt to remove the switch. That's the info I needed earlier today and it sounds like it would work.
Here is another fix-it webpage for this switch, that I wish I had seen before I tried to fix mine and broke it:
http://oldsmobileforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2895
This one at Oldsmobilefun seems more applicable to my situation as well since the reading through it, it seems to make more sense since I was wondering that that little triangle part was for.
Last edited by zzyzzx : 06-10-2013 at 09:45 AM.
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