stalling out

xXManwhoreXx · 02-03-2014, 02:43 PM

So my car is stalling out randomly... it will go through bouts of revving like its got a big ol cam in it and choke itself out. I have check fuel pressure its fine, my maf is fine, I can figure it out and its not throwing any codes other than my rear o2 sensor code which is normal because I have the o2 sensor fooler and no cat.

Help!!! I was almost late to my first day at my new job becuase it died on the interstate. The only way to keep it alive is to downshift and keep giving it gas. But when i have to stop it starts doing it again and dies. If I set it sit for a while and rev it to like 3500 it will start working again

a.graham52 · 02-03-2014, 03:02 PM

Fuel pressure regulator leaking, throttle position sensor?

Shiwnath · 02-03-2014, 03:03 PM

My car had problems similar to that, but for me it was the crank sensor being too far from the crank trigger to reliably read the markings. That caused spark timing issues for me. Only way to tell is if u have a scanner and can log your timing advance. At some points I could see my timing go straight to 0.

Edit: only code it threw for me was a misfire code. Also should point out this only happened on idle.

xXManwhoreXx · 02-03-2014, 06:58 PM

Seems better now. I hadnt driven it for like a week... and its been in the single digit temps outside

djwikit · 02-03-2014, 07:48 PM

Whenever I talked about getting a new car my old grand am would act up like a teenager. Kept me under its thrall until I would put some effort into her(ha ha) and get excited about a new mod. Finally I learned to only talk about new cars away from my current car.

#justsayin'

fisdad · 02-03-2014, 07:54 PM

Last time I had a car that did that kind of thing it was the crankshaft position sensor. I've also had TPS issues present similar symptoms and vacuum leaks but I'd start with the first two. Sleepy can get you a TPS, but if you're about to scrap the car then there isn't much point in it.

xXManwhoreXx · 02-04-2014, 06:24 AM

I need it for at least another month or so

tw0123 · 02-04-2014, 10:25 AM

Fix it then sell it to Nate for $800

MMGT1 · 02-04-2014, 11:25 AM

7X sensor at the back of the block and the connector from the IGM to that sensor. This has come up many,many times that I have seen. The connector and sensor are exposed to massive amounts of heat, the two wire lead breaks down and skews the signal to the IGM. Then the sensor it self has a plastic housing! Over time the housing heats and contracts so much the plastic breaks down and causes tiny cracks in the housing. This, in turn, causes the cracks to open up when hot and will also skew the signal to the IGM causing exactly what you have happening.
I would be looking to the MAF to be sure that it is not the issue. You said the MAF good, but get a scanner on it and move the wires as much as you can and make sure it doesn't screw up when you do. Also check the IAT sensor the same way.If you can find no fault with the MAF or IAT then go to that 7X crank sensor at the back of the engine.
**Reading what is happening to you it is a carbon copy of what I went through and it was a combo if the MAF wiring AND the 7X sensor that fixed mine man. Mine needed both to finally fix it

sleepyalero · 02-04-2014, 12:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tw0123

Fix it then sell it to Nate for $800

The stalling out drops the price to 650

xXManwhoreXx · 02-04-2014, 08:02 PM

Seems to be fine now, I hadnt driven for about a week.